One of Italy’s best bakeries is located on an island and was opened by a young baker

by Leonardo Samarelli

“I’ve been working in the gastronomy world since I was 13: I’ve been a waiter, a bartender, and even a butcher. Only at the age of 20 did I start baking in London at a restaurant,” says Elio Romeo, an Ischia native born in 1993. In June 2021, he opened Forno Romeo on his beloved island, which has earned the prestigious Due Pani award (Two Breads) from Gambero Rosso. While his passion for baking was ignited in the British capital, it was rooted deeply in his soul thanks to his father, as Elio recounts: “When I returned to Ischia in 2015, my father was already in this line of work. I worked in various bakeries on the island, and the more I kneaded, the more I realised I had a real talent for it.”

Forno Romeo

Elio Romeo did not settle for relying solely on his innate skill; he sought to deepen his knowledge of the world of baking. He began studying independently, delving into the chemical processes and traditional practices of the craft. “Every region in Italy has its own type of bread—it’s an invaluable gastronomic heritage,” Romeo admits. His career also includes two years under the tutelage of Pasquale Palamaro, executive chef at the Michelin-starred Indaco restaurant, located in the Regina Isabella hotel, one of the most prestigious accommodations on the island. “After that experience, I decided it was time to venture out on my own, so I opened my bakery in Lacco Ameno on 21 June 2021.”

The philosophy of Forno Romeo

Aware that baking on Ischia largely caters to mass distribution, Elio Romeo built his bakery’s offerings around high-quality leavened products, such as those made with ancient Sicilian grains like Russello and Margherito, as well as special flours, including millet flour. “What matters most to me is mastering the processes and ensuring top-quality raw materials; only then can I produce exceptional bread and baked goods,” explains the baker, who has stayed true to his philosophy since the bakery’s opening, even though his pricing strategy is necessarily higher than that of his competitors.

This approach has been appreciated by both locals and tourists, particularly during the summer season, who flock to Forno Romeo from the early hours of the morning to enjoy typical Ischian pastries like the cornetto (distinguished by its dual dough made from brioche and puff pastry) or signature desserts such as pastiera (a must-have) or torta caprese. As the day progresses, the menu expands to include pizza by the slice and, naturally, bread. “For pizza, I prefer classic flavours,” Romeo notes, “like sausage and friarielli, provolone and potatoes, or the traditional marinara, which I finish with a drizzle of raw olive oil and fresh basil. I also offer thick focaccia in the Bari style. As for bread, my standout items are rustic loaves, baguettes without the typical slashes, and multigrain bread. In winter, I enjoy experimenting more—for example, turmeric ciabatta.”

Elio’s pizzas also benefit from his background as a butcher, which enables him to make homemade cured meats, such as pork pancetta. Some of his baked goods are supplied to a select group of high-quality restaurants on the island of Ischia.

Future projects

Elio Romeo continues to learn and grow. He regularly attends additional baking courses and, in November, travelled to France to further explore their baking culture. His ultimate dream, however, is to produce bread using locally grown grain. “Around 80 years ago, a type of wheat called Carosella was cultivated on Mount Epomeo in Ischia. My dream is to revive this practice on the island,” says the enthusiastic young baker, who has become one of the most intriguing figures in the art of breadmaking today.

Forno Romeo – Corso Angelo Rizzoli, 208 – Tel. +39 081 304 6797 – Instagram