One of Lazio’s best trattorias opens a bakery and a seafood restaurant: here are Buccia’s new projects

by Antonio Scarselli

Focusing on their own land, doing everything to enhance its gastronomic offering, refusing to let certain dreams die and instead creating new ones. This is the story of Buccia, but also of two friends from the Agro Pontino who never left their homeland and who are now about to open two new venues in Sabaudia.

Bicio, whose real name is Fabrizio Pagliaroni, is feeling both very happy and quite tired. The day before our interview, he had been to the notary’s office to iron out some bureaucratic details and officially kick off all the exciting plans that, in just a few weeks, will involve him, his business partner Daniele Jodice, and the entire Buccia Trattoria team—set to grow by necessity. But, as is usually best (almost) every time, let’s start from the beginning, back in 2019, when these two friends and soon-to-be business partners decided to do something most people wouldn’t dare to think of: “We opened our own trattoria, rooted in the land, right here in Sabaudia,” says Bicio. “It might sound a bit mad, but in reality, it isn’t.” And it truly wasn’t—we’ll add that ourselves—because six years later, and a pandemic in between, Buccia is still right there in Sabaudia, a stone’s throw from the sea, with a menu that speaks of land, local meats, and vegetables from the plains of the Agro Pontino.

“It’s been six beautiful, intense years during which we’ve worked driven by so much passion,” recalls Bicio, remembering how difficult it was at first to spark the interest of locals who eyed their restaurant with suspicion. But time passes, and consistency pays off. Buccia now boasts 3 shrimp symbols in our Ristoranti d’Italia guide and is undoubtedly one of the most compelling modern trattorias in Lazio and beyond. But accolades and success aside, Bicio and Daniele are not the type to sit still for long, and for some time now they’d been looking around Sabaudia, scouting for a new adventure…

Uau (Buccia), the bakery with shop

Sometimes, someone’s enthusiasm meets someone else’s struggle—and that’s exactly what happened with the Buccia team. “Mara Negossi, a long-time customer and now friend, opened a bakery here in Sabaudia a couple of years ago,” explains Bicio. “She’s a very talented baker, but unfortunately things didn’t go as planned, and one evening a few months ago, over dinner at Buccia, she told us she had decided to shut it down for good.”

Bicio and Daniele thought it over for a couple of days and then decided that together they could give Mara’s bakery a second life, building a new project as a trio. And so, in early May, the doors will open to Uau (Buccia)—a bakery with a working kitchen and shop where people can come for breakfast with freshly baked goods and specialty coffee selected by Faro – Caffè Specialty, pick up bread throughout the day, stop in for an afternoon snack or shop for quality products to take home.

“In addition to all the baked goods, there will also be some of Buccia’s signature dishes like our buffalo ragù, homemade giardiniera, porchetta, and fresh pasta,” says Bicio. There’s even an idea to use Uau’s space for small baking and cooking courses, with an events calendar in the works for autumn and winter.

Maretto, Buccia’s new seafood trattoria

This summer is shaping up to be an intense one for the Buccia crew, who—alongside the imminent bakery opening—are also working on another project, this time with a sea view. “We’re aiming to open Maretto by mid-May, near the Dune area of Sabaudia,” explains Bicio. “Here we’ll serve seafood cuisine, but without any frills.”

The space that will house Maretto is a familiar spot for locals—and, in a twist of fate, also for Bicio himself, as it used to be La Caravella, a seafood restaurant where he took his very first steps in the kitchen. “It was the summer of 1998, I had just graduated and found work here, in the kitchen. Who would’ve thought that nearly 30 years later I’d be coming back as the owner?”

Most of the renovation work is already done, including maintenance on a perfectly functional wood-fired oven that will be used to prepare Roman-style pizzas—thin and crispy. But the heart of Maretto’s offering will be seafood, especially local fish delivered fresh daily. “We want to focus on conviviality, with lots of antipasti to share at the table, then simple baked or grilled poor man’s fish, and lake fish that will always be on the menu.”

The full menu is still being finalised, but Bicio shares that Maretto will be open only for dinner during the summer season. The trattoria style will be reflected not just in the food, but also in the bill—with an average spend of around €50 per person.

Uau (Buccia) – Corso vittorio Emanuele II, 61 – 04016 Sabaudia LT
Maretto – Strada lungomare pontino, 8334 – 04016 Sabaudia LT