One of the best Carbonaras in Rome is made by a trattoria that offers more than just traditional cuisine

by Leonardo Samarelli

A word taken from a poem by Aldo Fabrizi, La dieta, gives its name to this lively eatery located at Via del Rubattino 22, in the heart of the Testaccio district. All indications suggest that Conciabocca is one of many Roman trattorias churning out a vast number of dishes such as carbonara, amatriciana, and tripe in tomato sauce. While these dishes are indeed featured on the menu for most of the year, the restaurant, led by Giulio Burtone (chef), Giulio Marchesini (restaurant manager), and Rita Suatoni (sommelier), offers much more. The trio has successfully created a modern and dynamic trattoria that respects tradition while also featuring a variety of innovative dishes to tantalize the palate. Among them are bao, listed under the section "in pizzo"—which refers to appetizers—where Giulio enjoys experimenting with different fillings, such as zucchini concia with tuna bottarga. "I met Giulio Marchesini while working on another culinary project as a consultant," the chef recounts. "We immediately got along, and since we both aspired to open our own place, we joined forces and opened Conciabocca in February 2020."

Carbonara and more

Before striking out on his own, Giulio Burtone gained valuable experience at Pipero al Rex, the historic establishment near Termini Station that showcased the Michelin-starred cuisine of Luciano Monosilio and maître Alessandro Pipero. "It was an incredibly formative period; we were a young and close-knit brigade," reveals Giulio, who not only honed his technical skills there but also learned to craft a spectacular carbonara, the dish that made Luciano Monosilio famous. "We made so many that it was inevitable," jokes the chef of Conciabocca. In fact, it is the only traditional recipe that remains permanently on the menu.

However, Burtone’s cuisine is not limited to expertly executing Roman dishes; it is enriched with contemporary influences and Asian inspirations. As the chef explains, "In Testaccio, people expect a certain type of concept, so it’s essential to stay rooted in tradition, but we always strive to offer something different." In addition to the previously mentioned bao, the menu features intriguing dishes such as spaghettoni tossed in bisque of mantis shrimp, burnt onion, and salmon roe, or beef with pak choi and berries.

The vegetarian alternative

At Conciabocca, creativity is also evident in the vegetable-based dishes, which have gradually gained prominence on the menu. "The current market has convinced us to go down this path. Moreover, it’s a personal challenge for me—to see if I’m capable of creating a fully plant-based dish," says Giulio. One of the first creations in this direction was battered and fried mushrooms, but today, a greater awareness of the subject has led the chef to serve dishes like celeriac with azuki beans, roasted chestnuts, and red cabbage, or Romanesco broccoli samosa with glazed chickpeas.

Competitive prices

At a time when dining out is becoming more of a luxury, Conciabocca manages to offer skilled technique and quality ingredients at excellent prices. To give an idea, the carbonara—which holds its own against the most famous in Rome—costs €13, as do the other pasta dishes, except for seafood-based ones, which are just one euro more. But what really caught our attention were the white truffle tagliolini. The price? €26—about half of what competitors charge. "The variety is from Acqualagna, a truffle we source directly from our supplier in the Marche region, allowing us to offer a more reasonable price. Finally, since I’m not required to shave it at the table, I use a limited but sufficient amount to enhance the flavor," concludes Giulio Burtone.

Conciabocca – Via del Rubattino, 22 – Tel. +39 3337060065 – conciabocca.it