One of the best Frittatine in Naples is made by a deli with 120 years of history

by Valentina Curcio

Near Capodimonte, in the Colli Aminei district, there is what, for locals and beyond, is considered a true institution of Neapolitan street food. We’re talking about Rosticceria Imperatore, a legend dating back to 1906 — a time when there was no ambition to distort a dish to make it more interesting or appealing, because a crocchè was accepted and loved exactly as it was, without frills, in all its (admittedly rich) simplicity.

At the entrance, a counter overflowing with every kind of treat can overwhelm even the most decisive customer, who will be faced with the choice between all sorts of savoury pastries, tray-baked pizzas in various flavours, stuffed sandwiches, savoury croissants, and fried goodies like crocchè, arancini and the legendary frittatina di pasta, considered one of the very best in Naples. You can also opt for first and second courses, side dishes, and desserts — all homemade.

A bond with traditional cooking

Imperatore has maintained its identity over the years, staying true to its roots despite the constant, frantic changes in the restaurant world. So, no serial re-interpreters of dishes here — what you’ll find is authentic street food, carried on by four generations, now represented by Vincenzo Imperatore, already joined by his son Carlo, following in the footsteps of his father Carlo and grandfather Vincenzo. Just like their names, the recipes have been handed down decade after decade, ensuring the tastiness and quality of the product thanks to obsessive attention to detail and constant presence at the workplace. As Vincenzo tells us: “The secret to such a long-standing successful business lies entirely in the sacrifice of devoting yourself to it wholeheartedly, making major personal sacrifices and never delegating.”

Perfecting the Frittatina and its secret recipe

But all the curiosity is reserved for the house frittatina di pasta, ranked among the very best in Naples, much loved and widely imitated. The current result is the fruit of decades of research, experimentation, and refinement. Vincenzo is proud of it and guards the result of his studies jealously, never revealing the secret — which lies in the balance of its ingredients. But he does share this: “The real frittatina di pasta is made with spaghetti, and to make it so flavourful, all the components must be cooked together, as if making a ragù or a braised dish.”