ProWein tries to hold its ground. The German fair’s return to the past does not displease Italian producers

ProWein holds steady without overdoing it. The final balance is 42,000 professionals from 128 countries and around 4,200 exhibitors from 65 nations. It was certainly not a brilliant edition for the German fair, which saw a significant drop in exhibitors (down by around 30%) and visitors. However, Marius Berlemann, Chief Operating Officer of Messe Düsseldorf, enthusiastically commented: “In times of difficult sales, ProWein proves to be the industry's benchmark fair. Its international profile and long-standing expertise are impressive evidence of this.”

Looking at the facts, strolling through the various sections already on Sunday morning, the opening day, it was striking how in the various pavilions (four fewer this year), corridors were wider, and there were many common areas where in previous editions exhibitors' stands had been densely packed. However, there was no major collapse as many had predicted—rather, a return to the past.

Düsseldorf Fair / ctillmann

The difficulties of the German market

"Fewer numbers, certainly, but business as usual," says Giuseppe Saitta, an importer of numerous Italian brands. "For us, it was a positive edition. We met our regular customers, confirmed all our appointments, and are on track to conclude on a happy note. But behind this, there is a great deal of planning and scheduling. There is no more room for improvisation."

The German economy is not experiencing a particularly happy moment, and wine is also feeling the impact: consumption in 2024 has declined. The latest Nielsen IQ data, released by the German Wine Institute (DWI), shows that overall, purchased wine dropped by 4% in volume and 5% in value. However, Italy remains Germany’s top supplier.

Francesco Liantonio from Torrevento in Puglia highlights the complex international situation: "There are several wars at Europe's doorstep. Obviously, all this has consequences. And then there are trade wars, uncertainty over tariffs... The consumer is disoriented and frightened, which impacts consumption. With Germany in recession, the consequences are tangible. But while I understand the excitement around Paris’s glamour, I am absolutely convinced that the German market—our most important outlet—must be followed and closely monitored."

The ProWein vs Vinexpo comparison

"We are paying for planning mistakes," says Maurizio Conz, an export consultant representing several Italian brands. "The German market is not in a great moment, but it is holding up, with a downward trend in prices. Düsseldorf does not offer the glamour of Vinexpo Paris, and the city, after the excesses of previous years, is now readjusting its prices, starting with hotels that had reached disproportionate figures. While the international audience—particularly Americans and Asians—favoured the ‘Ville Lumière’, Düsseldorf is returning to its original role: a privileged meeting point for German operators and major producers, especially Italians."

"Paris has established itself as an international event," says Gottfried Pollinger from Nals Margreid in Alto Adige, "but the German market is fundamental for us, and we have done an excellent job here in Düsseldorf. Now, we look forward to Vinitaly, the real major global event for us Italian producers."

"It’s going better than expected," says Marzia Varvaglione at the end of the first day. "Before the fair, there was not much optimism, but the market has essentially held up, and we are very happy. Wine Paris offers better logistics, convenient connections, excellent services, and competitive prices, but Düsseldorf has the concreteness of an important market for us Italians."

Düsseldorf Fair / ctillmann

How the German fair has changed

Three fairs in such a short time might be too many for Europe, but major wine-producing countries like Italy and France certainly have the strength to attract buyers from all over the world. Christian Maddalena, export director for several Italian companies, is more critical: "From day one, it was clear that Düsseldorf is struggling compared to the past. Fewer foreign visitors, fewer appointments. Beyond Italy, even in other pavilions, the atmosphere was more subdued—even in the German and Austrian ones, where in past years, it was hard to walk through the crowds."

Julia Walch from Elena Walch is more positive: "We had many appointments and did an excellent job—I really can’t complain!"

"This is a different ProWein compared to previous editions," observes Andrea Cecchi, "but excellent work has been done. Expectations were very low after Paris, but we were surprised. The fair is holding up in terms of business. And I see that while we have all downsized in terms of costs and exhibition space, professional operators have not been lacking. We are very satisfied."

Düsseldorf Fair/ ctillmann

The challenge of attending three fairs in a few months

These opinions are widely shared by other Italian operators, such as Roberto Cardinale, export manager for several companies including Fina, Settecani, and Bava: "Lower attendance but well-targeted meetings, less room for improvisation. Proper planning beforehand has yielded excellent results. But organising participation in three fairs—Paris, Düsseldorf, and Verona—over three consecutive months is an excessive commitment."

Stefano Civino, director of Cantina Sampietrana in Puglia, again highlights how ProWein is now paying the price for the excessive costs and service issues caused by its rapid growth in recent years: "But those of us who planned the event well are seeing excellent results. Germany confirms itself as a fundamental market for us Italians."

Düsseldorf Fair / ctillmann

Space for de-alcoholised wine

Fewer overall attendees, fewer international buyers (particularly almost no Americans, given the delicate moment in EU-US relations), but Central and Eastern Europe were present and helped revive the event. Russian and Ukrainian operators, in particular, demonstrated the resilience of the European market, along with Poland and the Nordic countries, including Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania. Less glamour, but more concreteness.

General trends? Strong interest in zero and low-alcohol wines, high demand for sparkling wines, semi-sparkling wines, and white wines in general, while among reds, Tuscany, Piedmont, Veneto, and Puglia remain the most important players for Italy.

This was also evident in the pre-fair event hosted by Gambero Rosso’s Tre Bicchieri (on Saturday afternoon at the Rheinterrasse), which saw a record attendance of visitors and operators.

With the curtain now closed on Düsseldorf, the focus shifts to Verona. The real reckoning will come at the end.