A historic restaurant on Lake Garda celebrates 60 years with a new young chef

by Michele Turelli

The Brescia side of Lake Garda is known as a destination for increasingly discerning tourists. Both foreign and domestic visitors flock to the shores of Benaco, from Gargnano to Sirmione, seeking top-notch accommodations and quality restaurants. It’s no coincidence that this stretch of coastline is home to many restaurants boasting Michelin stars and top ratings. Among them is Capriccio in Manerba del Garda. Opened in 1965 and Michelin-starred since 1999, it celebrates 60 years of operation this year.

The history of Capriccio in Manerba del Garda

Giuliana Germiniasi inherited her passion for cooking from her parents and shared it with her husband Giancarlo Tassi, a maître and sommelier of great skill, until his tragic passing in November 2009. At the time, their daughter Francesca, then a high school student with university plans ahead, decided to join her mother in managing the restaurant. For years, Capriccio inexplicably remained in a “limbo” that risked tarnishing its prestige. “We never compromised on anything, but we realised something needed to change,” comments Francesca Tassi. “We needed to shed the shadow of the past, modernise the restaurant, and invest in looking to the future.”

Just before the pandemic, the restaurant underwent a transformation, with changes to its décor and colour scheme. Year after year, mother and daughter have spared no effort or energy in refreshing the space and its offerings: the interiors are brightened with new colours, new seating, and premium table settings. The bathrooms are stunning, and the covered terrace continues to offer a breathtaking view of the bay and the fortress overlooking Manerba. In the kitchen, Giuliana has surrounded herself with talented young professionals with the right ambitions, the latest of whom is Marco Pezzaioli. A sous-chef with significant international experience (Petite Nice in Marseille and Mosconi in Luxembourg), Marco was a recent finalist in the San Pellegrino Young Chef competition.

What’s on the Menu at Capriccio with the new young chef

The menu inevitably retains some cornerstone dishes, such as the spaghettone with lobster and lime (a historic dish dating back to 1965) and the red fruit soup with milk ice cream and flamed meringue (both worth the trip on their own). However, it has been refreshed and enhanced with a new sea-themed tasting menu (€85), crowned by the standout risotto with oyster, shiso, and ginger, showcasing the restaurant’s journey of renewal.

“We will also introduce a more affordable menu option aimed at younger customers,” Francesca continues, “but we will never compromise on indulgence and generous portions, a hallmark of my mother’s cooking, which has always aligned with the preferences of our clientele, especially locals.”

While the lake dominates the view, the sea has always been the star of the table at Capriccio. Sole, foie gras, almond milk and turnip greens, coda di rospo alla mugnaia (monkfish meunière), artichoke salad with bottarga and pecorino, and baked scampi with Garda aromatics and fresh mayonnaise are the highlights of the current menu. For those who don’t enjoy fish, there are alternative options, including vegetarian dishes.

The wine list was the pride of Francesca’s father, Giancarlo, and the final flourish is the selection of herbal teas served from a trolley, paired with petit fours presented in colourful, multi-shaped boxes. Unlike many colleagues in the area, Capriccio remains open year-round, with limited hours from Thursday to Sunday during the winter months.

Capriccio - Manerba del Garda (BS) - loc. Montinelle - p.zza San Bernardo, 6 - 0365 551124 - ristorantecapriccio.it