Takeaway and by the slice: the new geography of Roman pizza

by Michela Becchi, Sonia Ricci, Pina Sozio, Annalisa Zordan

The growth of the pizza world in the Capital shows no signs of stopping, especially with the revival of some traditional styles. The advancement of Roman pizza continues steadily (with new openings like TAC by the Seu/Zuppardo duo), and meanwhile, new signs dedicated to takeaway and pizza by the slice are emerging: there is a strong return to childhood pizza, thin, crispy, with classic flavors. Although the "culinary" spirit that has now enveloped the pizzeria universe – as discussed in the March issue of Gambero Rosso - is increasingly predominant, with elaborate toppings, chef-proof.

The new takeaway pizzerias in Rome

Once, pizzerias focused exclusively on takeaway were not synonymous with great quality, quite the opposite: the situation has changed even in this sector in Rome, with young businesses, which, by enhancing the peculiarities of Roman round pizza – thin and topped up to the edge, rolled out with a rolling pin or by hand – manage to offer an excellent product, which maintains its fragrance even after home delivery and which is also proposed with creative and laborious toppings.

Diretto Pizza

Near Tuscolana station, this sign dedicated exclusively to delivery and take away opened its doors last November. From the small and modern laboratory, excellent Roman round pizzas are baked, the result of a long maturation dough. There are many options, from Margherita to Carbonara Scientifica, with Agerola fiordilatte, amatriciano guanciale, salted zabaione with pecorino romano, a selection of five peppers, and shaved pecorino romano. The fried foods are truly noteworthy, with a crispy but not excessive breading and delicious fillings.

Diretto Pizza – via Tarquinio Prisco 40 - direttopizza.it

Granum pizzæpane

In Centocelle, on via delle Acacie, this very valid takeaway pizzeria opened a year ago, excellently managed by the couple, both in business and in life, Veronica (at the counter) and Lorenzo (with the dough). The two have managed to exceed expectations – previously, Pommidoro by Mirko Rizzo was here, one of the progenitors of Roman round pizza, who has recently inaugurated the new branch of L'Elementare – thanks to study, meticulous research of raw materials, and a touch of madness. The proposal includes mostly classic Roman pizzas, stuffed pizzas (primarily with mortadella), excellent fried foods, and bread. Not available every day, but when it is, it's definitely worth trying.

Granum pizzæpane - Via delle Acacie, 1a – Roma - facebook.com/granumPizzaePane

180grammi Takeaway and Delivery

A few weeks ago, we announced the opening of the new takeaway and delivery pizzeria signed by a pizza star like Jacopo Mercuro. The third branch, after the two in Centocelle, will open soon in the San Paolo neighborhood, with Roman round pizzas with classic toppings, the famous sampietrini (among the fried foods), and slices of sweet pizza.

180grammi Asporto e Delivery - via Efeso, 29 – Roma - 180gpizzeriaromana.com

The latest generation of pizza by the slice

In the last twenty years – since Gabriele Bonci revolutionized the world of pizza by the slice – the latter has been a vector of creativity and quality like never before in the Capital. Numerous recent innovations in the sector, even among well-known names: first of all, Lievito Francesco Arnesano in the Serafico area (via Simone Martini), the second venue of a great talent in Roman baking. Then the restyling of Pizza Chef, in the Appia area, by Mario Panatta and Sara Longo, an unmissable address for those who want to enjoy a great pizza by the slice. However, there are also several new activities, highlighting young professionals eager to do well, mainly on two fronts: that of the Bonci-inspired pizza by the slice (and, in turn, of the Iezzi school), higher and airier, able to support evolved toppings, often "cooked"; and that of vintage pizza by the slice, simple, thin, and crispy, digging into the memory of the Capital with contemporary technique (initiated by the Di Lelio family years ago, with the Sancho pizzeria in Fiumicino). Let's see the most recent addresses in detail.

Angolo in teglia

Last summer, this sign focused on high-quality tray pizza (in the same market, there has been an excellent address for pizza al taglio, Casa Manco, for a few years) arrived at Box 2 of the Testaccio Market. A beautiful dough with high hydration, light, airy, and crispy, hosts classic and seasonal toppings, carefully and competently dosed, along with some coup de théâtre like foie gras and jamon iberico.

Angolo in teglia –  via B. Franklin, 12e, c/o Nuovo Mercato Testaccio – Roma - instagram.com/langolointeglia2

Frumentario

A stone's throw from Piazza Re di Roma, a small laboratory was born last June as a takeaway pizzeria and, after a few months, specialized instead in pizza by the slice, cut. A very light and crispy pizza that hosts a high-level kitchen in its toppings: Frumentario is, in fact, the creation of Alessandro Santilli, a chef and leavening expert with experience in fine dining. The selection of raw materials is careful, the toppings are "cooked", the slices are finished with sauces, dressings, or dairy before being served to the customer. Excellent fried foods, all prepared at the moment.

Frumentario – via Tuscolana, 26 – Roma - instagram.com/frumentario_pizzaromana

Pantera Pizza Rustica

The pizza of yesteryear - low, tasty, pop - with quality ingredients. This brand new neighborhood sign has changed the face of contemporary slice pizza parlors. Many of those that have opened in the city in the last decade have focused a lot on the cuisine, the toppings, to be placed or with which to fill the base. Pantera, on the other hand, did the opposite: no gourmet virtuosity, a warm return to the past, with thin pizza trays, few flavors, but with better ingredients than those found in the windows of the 1990s, when pop pizzas were all the rage. So white pizza, the inevitable red, also spicy, potatoes, mushrooms, zucchini flowers, and anchovies. And then the fried foods, excellent supplì. Behind the counter: Manuel and Nicolò Trecastelli, owners of the beloved trattoria Trecca in Garbatella and the enoteca with kitchen Circoletto in Circo Massimo.

Pantera Pizza Rustica - Circonvallazione Ostiense, 153 - Roma - instagram.com/pantera_garbatella

Ruver Teglia Frazionata

Near Circo Massimo, Alessandro Ruver opened this small shop dedicated to Roman tray pizza at the end of 2023, thin and crispy: quality Italian flours, carefully chosen raw materials, strong technical mastery. The proposal is by the slice and started with a range of classic flavors, including the excellent combination of potatoes and mozzarella, but the offer grows day by day, according to whim and market: the pizza with onion frittata is very good, now a signature dish with ragù. Fast and friendly service.

Ruver Teglia Frazionata - v.le Aventino 46 - instagram.com/ruver_tegliafrazionata/

Pizza Giulia

Inside the Rionale Market of Casal de’ Pazzi, a lively place in recent times due to the presence of Bottega Pasolini, pizza maker Pierluigi Simeoni has opened his pizza by the slice, perfect for a snack during shopping. The proposal is classic, with tray pizzas – also stuffed – of beautiful lightness, offered with seasonal toppings. Also, homemade supplì are worth trying. From Thursday to Sunday, the counter remains open in the evening for home deliveries, also of round pizzas.

Pizza Giulia – via Locke c/o Mercato Rionale Casal de’ Pazzi - pizzagiulia33.com/