Vermentino in Liguria once again takes the lion's share of wines awarded with Tre Bicchieri, but excellent results also come from another symbolic white wine of the region: Pigato. This year, nine labels reached our finals, and one took the top spot on our podium during the tastings for the 2025 Vini d'Italia guide by Gambero Rosso.
Pigato, obtained from the homonymous native white grape variety, is cultivated both along the coast and in the inland valleys. It is a wine with a typical Mediterranean profile, perfectly and faithfully expressing its territory. Its name derives from the Ligurian term "pigau," meaning "spotted," referring to the brown speckles that appear on the ripe berries. It is a variety very similar to Vermentino, likely born from a spontaneous mutation and subsequently perfectly acclimatized in the Ponente Ligure terroir—its primary cultivation area—though it can also be found in Valpolcevera.
In the more inland areas of Ranzo and the Arroscia Valley, which are cooler with vineyards at higher altitudes, Pigato expresses greater freshness, intense, and elegant aromas thanks to significant diurnal temperature variations. Near the sea, along the stretch of coast from Albenga to Diano Marina, it takes on warmer and sunnier tones. Beyond the climate, the diverse soil composition also profoundly influences the aromatic profile of the grapes. On white soils rich in limestone, Pigato expresses itself with greater finesse and freshness, while on red soils, characterized by a generous presence of iron components, it gains body and a pronounced mineral vein.
It has a straw-yellow colour, with aromas of Mediterranean scrub and herbal nuances opening into notes of white flowers, fruit, and iodized hints. On the palate, it is harmonious and balanced, with moderate acidity, fruity aromas of good intensity, and a mineral vein. The finish is pleasantly savoury, with almond-like nuances. It is a wine with good ageing potential.
Pairings with Pigato
When young, Pigato pairs perfectly with seafood dishes or traditional Ligurian first courses, such as pansotti with borage or trenette al pesto. As it ages, it finds interesting pairings with more structured and complex fish dishes, delicate white meats, and medium-aged cheeses.
Tre Bicchieri 2025 in Liguria: the return to the podium
The Pigato U Baccan '22 from the estate of Francesca Bruna and her husband Roberto—whose main plots are located on the heights between Ranzo and Ortovero—reclaims the top spot on our podium. This exceptional label serves as a benchmark for the variety.
The best Pigato Tre Bicchieri and Due Bicchieri Wines 2025
Here are the Pigato wines that impressed us the most during the tastings for the Vini d'Italia 2025 guide by Gambero Rosso. One reclaimed the Tre Bicchieri, while the others reached the finals.
Satisfaction for the estate's white wines, starting with U Baccan '22 by Bruna, with yellow flowers enriching the herbaceous and Mediterranean profile; the wine has body and good harmony. The vintage was finally regular, with the right quantity of grapes allowing the estate to reach new markets previously untapped due to product shortages. For 26 years, the winery has sold in the US through a reliable American importer, with export now accounting for nearly 50% of production. The remaining production from estate vineyards, increased through new small plantings, is dedicated to the domestic market, where the wine is in high demand.
From Genoa's inland, elegant and delicate wines emerge, such as the Pigato '23 by Villa Cambiaso, rich in Mediterranean herbs and good minerality.
The Pigato '23 by Maria Donata Bianchi captivates the palate with Mediterranean scents and aromas of jasmine and acacia, featuring a rich and persistent body. A new product enriches the range, a pure Pigato from a specific vineyard conducted organically in Diano Arentino, at approximately 300 meters altitude, with limestone soil and southwest exposure. This wine showcases distinctive characteristics enhanced by slight pre-fermentation cold maceration. Marta Trevia introduced a new label reflecting gratitude towards the resourcefulness and skill of women in the winery.
BioVio presented Grand Père '22, with intense colour, mature notes, great character, and an excellent aftertaste. Bon in da Bon 2023 also stands out. Pigato and Vermentino are the white grape varieties cultivated on nine hectares across three main areas: Albenga's red, clay-rich soil zones of Marige and Salea, Ranzo at about 250 meters altitude with limestone soil, and areas preserving biodiversity.
- Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato Grand Père 2022 - BioVio
- Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato Bon in da Bon 2023 - BioVio
Deperi continues to grow, starting with the Cremen '22, appreciated for its ripe fruit and pleasant complexity.
Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato Cremen 2022 - Deperi
The Saleasco '23 by Cantine Calleri is a well-balanced, complex wine marked by pleasant freshness. The 2023 harvest was excellent, with cryo-maceration at 3.5°C boosting quality. Marcello Calleri's meticulous care for the vines and fields has brought growth in quality.
Peq Agri's Vignamare '21 expresses vibrant intensity, while Il Canneto '23 stands out for its inviting colours, extract, and evolving structure.
- Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato Vignamare 2021 - Peq Agri
- Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato Il Canneto 2023 - Peq Agri
The Via Maestra '23 by La Ginestraia features Mediterranean aromas, including rosemary and sage, with a distant eucalyptus note. This sapid, structured wine rewards their new winery investment. The estate focuses exclusively on native white varieties, achieving 70,000 bottles annually with undeniable quality.
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