The 10 best Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wines selected by Gambero Rosso (with a new Tre Bicchieri)

Dec 13 2024, 18:15
Among the Abruzzo wines awarded with Three Glasses or that reached the finals, some excellent Trebbiano wines stand out, proving surprising when they age a few years. Here are the producers who interpret it best

As we have previously highlighted, Abruzzo’s wine scene tells the story of a region looking to the future. The “Abruzzo Model” is working to reshape regional production, aiming to raise the bar for quality, distancing the growing number of producers focusing on identity-driven and territorial wines from bottlers whose sole objective is quantity (often at excessively low prices).

After discussing the best Montepulciano and Cerasuolo, here we focus on Trebbiano, which continues to impress as it ages.

Known since ancient Rome under the name trebulanum, Trebbiano is the most widely cultivated grape variety in the world. Its origins are undoubtedly Italic, though the specific region of provenance remains uncertain due to the abundance of geographical locations associated with its name. The characteristics behind Trebbiano’s vast spread are its resistance to disease and pests, its adaptability, and its remarkable productivity. In Italy, from north to south, it is found in almost every region, often carrying an adjective to denote its local affiliation where it has played a significant role.

In Abruzzo, Amorotti, Masciarelli, and La Valentina stand out as the producers who, according to our tastings this year, have best interpreted the grape. Joining them is the Spinelli family, who, for the first time, have entered the exclusive club of Tre Bicchieri winners.

Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Le Stagioni del Vino 2021 - Spinelli

A new entry in the Tre Bicchieri and a rare label

With its Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Le Stagioni del Vino 2021, the Spinelli winery has joined the 52 wineries that earned Tre Bicchieri for the first time this year. By redesigning its production approach, the winery has delivered an extraordinary Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.

Also noteworthy is the presence of a Trebbiano d’Abruzzo in the Carta dei Vini Rari (Rare Wines List), a completely new section of the Gambero Rosso 2025 Italian Wine Guide and the subject of the November cover story in Gambero Rosso magazine. This is the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Di-Vèrto ’22 from Torre dei Beati, a multifaceted, mineral, saline, and Mediterranean wine. What strikes most, however, is its sip—imbued with tension and vitality, a standout among the region’s Trebbianos.

The best Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wines: Tre Bicchieri and Due Bicchieri Rossi

Below are the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wines awarded Tre Bicchieri, the highest recognition, or Due Bicchieri Rossi in the Gambero Rosso 2025 Italian Wine Guide, having reached the final tastings.

Once again this year, the standout in the small range offered by Amorotti is the Trebbiano. The 2022 vintage presents itself as a white wine with a layered and multifaceted aromatic spectrum, showcasing notes of tea leaves, candied lemon, chamomile, propolis, mustard seeds, and green apricot. It then unfolds, with a touch of wild elegance, into a vibrant sip brimming with savoury energy.

Those familiar with the wines of Loreto Aprutino will have noticed that, for some years now, a new player has joined the town’s winemaking scene. This is Amorotti, the brainchild of Gaetano Carboni, who around a decade ago decided to restore the old cellar of his ancestors, located in the Palazzo dei Baroni Amorotti. Here, grapes from the estate’s 16 hectares of vineyards, divided into several parcels, are crafted using traditional artisanal methods. Fermentations are strictly spontaneous, and neither modern technology nor stainless steel crosses the threshold of the winery. Instead, only large wooden barrels are used for both vinification and maturation.

An excellent rendition of Trebbiano from the Spinelli winery. The 2021 vintage showcases an elegant smoky nuance, delicate and refined, complemented by hints of aromatic herbs and pleasantly citrusy notes. On the palate, it delivers a sip of vibrant sapidity—taut, long, and with a radiant finish.

Vincenzo Spinelli founded the winery that bears his name in 1973, giving it a distinctly commercial focus from the start. Today, the brand remains one of the most renowned from Abruzzo on the global stage. However, while the majority of production was previously destined for export, recent years have seen the new generation at the helm of the company shift their efforts towards the domestic market. Alongside the estate’s own vineyards, the winery also sources grapes from trusted growers who are meticulously guided in all phases of vineyard management. Le Stagioni del Vino is the name of the line that represents a significant focus of the winery’s efforts—and the results are outstanding.

The Trebbiano Castello di Semivicoli delivers an excellent performance. Aromatic suggestions of lemon zest and pulp, aromatic herbs, and freshly cut hay emerge from the glass, leading to a palate of great gustatory precision—light and delicate, with a long and refined finish.

Marina Cvetic and Miriam Masciarelli helm one of the most significant wineries in the region, a venture that has brought Abruzzo’s name to the world stage. The estate’s impressive vineyard holdings span all the provinces of Abruzzo, aiming to harness the best characteristics of each area: from the Adriatic coasts to the rolling hills leading up to the Gran Sasso, and through Abruzzo wine capitals like Loreto Aprutino in the Colline Pescaresi, reaching as far as the province of Chieti.

The Trebbiano Spelt is deeply captivating: notes of blooming meadows and dried ginger, with a beautifully flavoured palate driven by vibrant acidity. Its impressive structure never feels heavy. The vineyards of La Valentina, managed by the Di Properzio brothers, embody the dual soul of regional wine: the Apennine and the Adriatic. Indeed, their vineyard plots are located in Spoltore and Cavaticchi, close to the coast, as well as in Scafa, San Valentino, and Alanno, further inland in the heart of the Colline Pescaresi.

Since beginning their venture in the 1990s, Sabatino, Roberto, and Andrea have rooted their work in full respect for the territory and nature. Following their organic certification, they have embraced sustainable farming practices with increasing commitment.

Emidio Pepe is one of the elder statesmen of Italian wine. His winemaking journey began in 1964 when he decided to start bottling his own wines, drawing on the expertise passed down from his father and grandfather, both winemakers themselves. The backdrop to this enduring adventure, now successfully carried forward by his daughters Daniela and Sofia, and his granddaughter Chiara, is the rolling hills of Torano Nuovo in the Teramo province. Here, every year, the ritual of artisanal production is renewed, earning a prestigious place in the pantheon of the world’s finest wines.

The name Montori is synonymous with one of the longest-standing wineries in the Abruzzo region. Its agricultural and winemaking activities date back to the late 19th century, but it was in the 1960s and 1970s that the business truly established itself, gradually becoming one of the flagship producers of the Colline Teramane. The company’s headquarters are located in Controguerra, straddling the border between Abruzzo and Marche. The estate includes around fifty hectares of vineyards, producing a diverse range of wines, with the Fontecupa line standing out in particular.

The Trebbiano Fosso Cancelli 2021 is a white wine evoking notes of citron, basil, and broom, with a palate that focuses on savoury and mineral sensations. Chiara Ciavolich is the latest heir to a long lineage of winemakers and, drawing on these deep roots, approaches the wine world with character and determination. The Fosso Cancelli line is her brainchild—wines with a strong identity and artisanal character, which greatly impressed us in the last tasting round. The vineyards are divided between two estates: a 24-hectare plot in Loreto Aprutino, established in the 1960s, and a 6-hectare plot in Pianella, planted in 2000.

Once again this year, we were captivated by the Trebbiano Tenuta del Professore, a 2018 Riserva with aromas of fresh hazelnut, ferns, propolis, and yellow flowers, all gently touched by a subtle smoky note. The palate opens rich and textural but quickly turns lively and vibrant, culminating in a beautifully toasted finish.

We are in the inland area of Città Sant’Angelo, on the Colline Pescaresi. Here, in 2007, Mario and Giovanni D’Alesio decided to revitalise the agricultural legacy built by their grandfather Mario, founding a brand-new winery that immediately embraced organic farming. Their production is divided into three lines: Sciarr, D’Alesio, and Tenuta del Professore, the flagship collection. Among their rows of vines are the classic grape varieties of the region, which form the foundation for a range of wines with a strong sense of place.

The Trebbiano C. is very impressive: a nuanced bouquet with hints of light toasting, balsamic breezes, and lemon zest, juicy on the palate, with remarkable structure—complex yet approachable. The rest of the range is also strong.

Careful zoning processes, precision viticulture, and a focus on the human element are the pillars of the Nododivino project. Born within Citra, one of the cornerstones of regional wine cooperatives, Nododivino has established a clearly defined independent identity from the start. The range is already distinguished by its stylistic clarity and gustatory breadth, from the fresh wines of the Monovarietali line to the carefully crafted selections of the Oro line.

"Viticoltori fra i parchi" ("Vinegrowers among the parks"): the Pizzolo family, owners of Valle Reale, has chosen this tagline to accompany their logo and convey the production philosophy of Valle Reale. The reason is simple: the heart of the winery is located on the border between the provinces of Pescara and L'Aquila, in an unspoiled area where the protected zones of Gran Sasso, Majella, and Sirente-Velino meet. The nearly 50 hectares of vineyards are biodynamically certified and form the foundation for one of the most exciting wine ranges in the region.

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