The 11 best Falanghina del Sannio wines chosen by Gambero Rosso

Nov 10 2024, 13:28
Excellent results were again achieved this year by Falanghina del Sannio during our tastings for the *Vini d'Italia* guide. Here are the labels we liked the most

There are 21 Tre Bicchieri awards for Campania wines in the Vini d'Italia 2025 guide by Gambero Rosso, and 16 of them are white wines. Fiano di Avellino and Falanghina del Sannio take the lead (alongside Greco di Tufo). Here, we focus on the Falanghina del Sannio wines that impressed us most.

Falanghina del Sannio: a bit of history…

Alongside Aglianico, Falanghina is one of Campania’s oldest grape varieties, deeply rooted in the region’s agricultural traditions, though its wide distribution is relatively recent, dating back to the 1970s. The name seems to derive from 'falanx', the stake used to support grapevines in ancient times.

Over centuries, two genetically distinct types of Falanghina have developed in Campania: one from the Campi Flegrei region, spread mainly by the Martusciello family, and the other from Sannio, a variety believed to have originated in Bonea and rediscovered by Leonardo Mustilli.

Adapted to their respective territories, these varieties offer distinct characteristics when vinified properly: salinity and mineral tones in the Campi Flegrei variety; acidity and structure in the Sannio variety. Falanghina vineyards are also found in many other areas of Campania and beyond, spreading over time to Molise and northern Puglia.

Mario Fappiano

Tre Bicchieri 2025 of Campania: the newcomer

We welcome Mario Fappiano to the Tre Bicchieri club. This young winemaker from Sannio won us over with his very first guide entry, his Falanghina del Sannio 2022.

The 11 best Falanghina del Sannio wines awarded Tre Bicchieri

Here are the top 11 Falanghina del Sannio wines that received the highest awards, either Tre Bicchieri or Due Bicchieri Rossi for finalists, in the Vini d’Italia 2025 guide by Gambero Rosso.

Fappiano’s Falanghina '22, a new *Tre Bicchieri* entrant, has a golden hue with tones of dried herbs, spices, and cedar zest, and a slightly mineral, iodine-like touch. It has a full flavor, with a saline, lively finish that echoes the herbs.

San Lorenzello, a small village at the base of the Matese massif, is where the Fappiano family has produced wine for four generations. Only recently, after completing his economics degree, Mario decided to fully commit to wine production on their 12 hectares, focusing mainly on typical Sannio varieties like Aglianico, Piedirosso, Barbera (Camaiola), Fiano, and, naturally, Falanghina.

The Falanghina Vigna Segreta '22 from Mustilli is a harmonious blend of aromas with notes of cedar, lemon, freshly cut grass, and sage, leading to a fresh, elegant, and dynamic white wine with fine depth.

Mustilli is a renowned name in Campania wine; its founder Leonardo Mustilli was one of the first to believe in this variety, bottling a pure Falanghina as early as 1979. Today, his daughters Paola and Anna Chiara manage the family’s 15 hectares, producing a dependable range of wines.

The Svelato from Terre Stregate is a flagship wine with an herbaceous bouquet, a light almond touch, and fresh citrus notes. It is simple yet juicy and marked by a refreshing acidity.

Terre Stregate was founded in 2004 when Armando Iacobucci sought to revive a family tradition in winemaking. His children, Carlo and Filomena, now lead the company, focusing on vineyards in one of Sannio’s prime areas near the Calore River.

Fontanavecchia’s BjondoRe '23 features classic notes of hay and green citrus with a delicate hint of white peach. It is lively and dynamic on the palate.

Established by Orazio in the early 1990s, Fontanavecchia is now run by his sons Libero and Giuseppe, who have devoted themselves to showcasing Sannio’s wines, especially Falanghina, with a zonal study that led to the creation of three different *Vendemmia Tardiva Libero* labels: T031, B148, and F190, each from a specific vineyard. The B148 offers a full-bodied, mineral flavor with intense salinity and tension. The T031 exhibits citrus aromas with a slightly smoky finish. The F190 offers a dynamic, rhythm-filled palate.

In the range presented by Masseria Frattasi, the crisp aromatic definition of Falanghina Bonea stands out: notes of yellow and green citrus chase hints of aromatic herbs before settling into a taut, linear sip, balanced with drinkability and freshness, never lapsing into banality.

The Cecere Clemente family is undoubtedly among those who have made important contributions to the winemaking traditions of Campania and Sannio, with their involvement in wine production dating back to the mid-16th century. This is a significant legacy now upheld by Pasquale Clemente, who currently leads Masseria Frattasi. In his cellar, located in a historic building from 1779, he produces a range of wines from local vineyards in Bonea, Montesarchio, Tocco Claudio, and Baselice.

Once again, this year, Aia dei Colombi’s Falanghina Vignasuprema has shown remarkable quality. Its profile is mineral with a subtly smoky touch, followed by briny hints blending with typical herbal notes, giving it an aromatic profile that is complex and well-structured. The Pascale family started their winemaking business in 2002, renewing the long agricultural tradition of their family.

Their ten hectares of vineyards are located in the municipalities of Guardia Sanframondi and Castelvenere, on soils rich in clay and limestone. The primary grape varieties grown are Aglianico and Falanghina, along with smaller quantities of Sangiovese, Fiano, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. For the whites, steel tanks are preferred to preserve freshness, while Aglianico is aged in barrels to soften its edges.

Falanghina del Sannio Identitas '23 offers an intriguing aroma of sweet spices combined with delicious sensations of ripe yellow fruit, primarily peach and medlar. The classic sensation of freshly cut grass paves the way for a palate that is both full and agile, marked by juicy sapidity.

Over time, Cantina di Solopaca has managed to merge these qualities with concrete programmes focused on quality and the enhancement of the territory. The latest of these initiatives is the Identitas line, which aims to revitalise this vast production hub. This year, no reds were presented at our tasting tables.

Falanghina Anima Lavica boasts a fine aromatic array centred on acacia flowers, white roses, and peach; notes of hay add a refreshing touch to the bouquet, which leads to an elegant and subtle mouthfeel, perfectly balanced in flavour and acidity.

La Guardiense is one of the most significant cooperative wineries in Southern Italy. With a forward-looking and attentive direction, it has risen over the years to the top ranks of Sannio's wineries, achieving excellent results across various product lines, particularly the Janare line. The range covers all the main traditional grape varieties of Sannio, with a focus on Falanghina and Aglianico, along with projects for sparkling wines.

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