Mountains that seem to dive into the water—this is the first image that comes to mind when thinking of Liguria. Travelling the 350 kilometres from the French border to Tuscany, one cannot help but be enchanted by the steep slopes and Apennine peaks that gaze directly at the sea. It is precisely on these slopes that we find the small patches of land where traditional grape varieties are cultivated by a small yet determined group of courageous winemakers. Beyond producing wine, they take on the daily task of preserving and safeguarding this challenging territory, squeezed between mountains, sea, and narrow valleys.
If there is one place where we can truly talk about heroic viticulture, it is here. The geographical characteristics we have described force winemakers into hard labour: mechanisation is practically impossible, working hours are significantly higher than in other wine regions, and as a result, prices cannot be too low.
Vermentino: the origins of the grape variety
The total vineyard area in Liguria is relatively small—around 1,500 hectares in total —but the quality is remarkably high. Moreover, this quality extends across different types and numerous varieties. White wines account for 65% of production, thanks to certain grape varieties that thrive in multiple areas. One of these, alongside Pigato, is undoubtedly Vermentino, a great Mediterranean grape variety that expresses its signature sunny aromas in Liguria like nowhere else.
There are differing theories regarding its origins. Some believe it is a Spanish grape that later spread to the southern coasts of France, Corsica, and, of course, Liguria and Sardinia. Others trace its roots to Anatolia, suggesting it arrived in the western Mediterranean via Greek maritime trade. Some even argue that it is an indigenous Italian variety that later spread throughout the Mare Nostrum.
Vermentino: The Star of Two DOCs
Vermentino is widespread across the entire Ligurian region, particularly in two key denominations: Riviera Ligure di Ponente and Colli di Luni. The wines we have selected come precisely from these two territories, which sit at opposite ends of the region but share an exceptionally high average quality.
The Best Value-for-Money Vermentino Wines from Liguria
Below is our selection of Ligurian Vermentino wines that offer the best quality-to-price ratio. These wines have been featured in Berebene 2025 and Vini d’Italia 2025 by Gambero Rosso.
Since founding Azienda Giacomelli in 1993, Roberto Petacchi has meticulously tended to his vineyards and winery processes. As a result, the range has improved exponentially over the years. The 2023 Boboli vintage showcases varietal aromas with fresh Mediterranean notes, offering a complex and well-balanced body.
The Groppolo '23 is a Vermentino with fresh Mediterranean scents of aromatic herbs and citrus zest. On the palate, it boasts great depth and balance. Il Monticello, founded by Pier Luigi Neri in 1982 and now run by his sons Davide and Alessandro, is a winery in constant growth. While Vermentino is the flagship variety, the estate also cultivates Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Pollera Nera, and Massaretta using biodynamic methods.
The Solaris '23 opens with intoxicating aromas and presents a well-structured and lingering body. La Baia del Sole Federici winery is located just a few dozen metres from the ancient ruins of Luni, focusing primarily on Vermentino grapes sourced from vineyards spread throughout the denomination.
Seductive and expressive, the Boceda '23 achieves harmony through the balance of delicacy and bright Mediterranean notes. Filippo Zangani, together with his family, manages the administrative, commercial, and marketing aspects of the winery. Vineyard operations, spanning ten hectares across seven plots in Santo Stefano Magra, are overseen by Claudio Scopsi.
The Vermentino '23 from Durin, awarded as the best value-for-money wine in Liguria, impresses with its aromatic herb notes, fragrant fruit richness, and pleasant aftertaste. Antonio Basso, alongside his wife Laura, continues the winery’s legacy. Their extensive range features Pigato, Vermentino, Rossese, Alicante, Granaccia, Ormeasco, Sangiovese, and Barbera, all showcasing remarkable aromatic depth and typicity.
The Fontanacota Vermentino '23 exudes aromas of yellow flowers and peach pulp, with a savoury and elegant body, making it inviting and pleasant. The winery is based in Ponti di Pornassio, a small village in the Arroscia valley, where the Alpine and Mediterranean climates meet. In addition to Ormeasco and Granaccia cultivated at 550 metres altitude, the estate also produces Pigato, Vermentino, and Rossese from vineyards closer to the sea.
The Deperi family has been engaged in agriculture since the early 19th century. The winery itself, however, was established much later in 2004, when Paolo, with the help of his father Pierluigi and uncle Mauro, built a modern facility. Their range is deeply rooted in the territory and shines for its excellent value-for-money. For Berebene 2025, we selected their Vermentino '23, which features fragrant Mediterranean aromas and a long, savoury finish.
The 2023 Vermentino from Maixei is an elegant and refined white wine, savoury and harmonious with Mediterranean herb notes and a fine finish. "Maixei" refers to the ancient dry-stone walls in western Liguria that still bear witness to the region’s millennia-old agricultural history. The winery works with a loyal group of growers who primarily supply Rossese grapes, alongside small quantities of Pigato, Syrah, and Vermentino.
The Aimone '23 from BioVio presents floral aromas of yellow flowers and dandelion. It is harmonious, savoury, and round. The estate cultivates Pigato and Vermentino across approximately nine hectares in three key areas: the red clay soils of Marige and Salea in Albenga, which contribute salinity, structure, and alcohol; and Ranzo, at 250 metres altitude, where limestone soils and temperature variation enhance aromatic intensity.
The Antico Sfizio '23 is an intensely coloured Vermentino, echoing ancient winemaking traditions, warm aromas, and a distinct Mediterranean character. It is savoury, full-bodied, and full of personality. Marta Trevia now leads Maria Donata Bianchi, focusing on indigenous white grape varieties. The vineyards, situated in Diano Castello and Diano Arentino at altitudes between 250 and 350 metres, are ideal for this type of wine.
The I Müzazzi '23 from Cantine Calleri offers an aromatic complexity with a youthful freshness. The Calleri name carries significant weight in Pigato’s history, and Marcello has elevated the winery's production to a benchmark of quality. Located in the small village of Salea, the estate primarily sources grapes from Albenga’s subzones. The excellence of their Vermentino is evident in this label.
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