Verdicchio is the most renowned and widespread white grape variety in the Marche region. It owes its name to the colour of its berries, which always retain a greenish hue even when fully ripe and often impart this tint to the wine itself. First recorded in a notarial document on 12 January 1579, it had to wait until 1968 to become officially linked with the Castelli di Jesi, its chosen territory.
How it arrived in the Marche remains unknown. Since it is genetically identical to Trebbiano di Soave, it is assumed that it may have been brought by Venetian families who repopulated the inland hills of the Marche in the second half of the 15th century after a devastating epidemic.
The territory of the Castelli di Jesi
Verdicchio thrives in the hilly territories crossed by the Esino River, which the designation identifies across 23 municipalities in the province of Ancona and two in the province of Macerata. Over the centuries, many of these municipalities were dominated by the powerful city of Jesi and eventually became known as its “castles.” Curiously, however, the entire municipal territory of Jesi itself is excluded from the DOC area.
The region is quite vast, covering a surface area of 2,200 hectares. It extends from the first hills facing the Adriatic—such as the Morro d’Alba area, which produces flavourful wines—up to the great finesse and extraordinary longevity of wines produced in Montecarotto, Serra de’ Conti, and Poggio San Marcello.
On the opposite side, in the southern quadrant of the Esino, the energy and distinctive character of labels from San Paolo di Jesi, Cingoli, and Staffolo stand out. Further inland along the same ridge lie Cupramontana and Apiro, which benefit from a cooler climate and higher altitudes, yielding elegant, savoury whites that sometimes take on a more northern, vertical profile, similar to the Verdicchio of Matelica. These wines come from a valley not far away but completely surrounded by the Apennines.
Castelli di Jesi and Matelica: the differences
If we were to summarise the differences between the Castelli di Jesi and Matelica areas—at the risk of oversimplification—we could say that the former produces predominantly elegant whites with fruity, floral, and spicy fragrances, harmonious yet full of flavour on the palate. The latter tends towards a more mineral, razor-sharp, fresh, and direct profile.
Of course, this general framework is nuanced by other factors that blur the boundaries: individual winery styles, the interpretation of vintages (which do not always follow similar patterns in the two areas), and soil diversity even within the same designations. This variability is actually a strength—Verdicchio’s beauty lies in its plasticity, its ability to transform under the hands (and in the land) of those who cultivate it.
The amphora-shaped bottle
Even before Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi officially became a DOC (and later a DOCG in its Riserva version), the wine enjoyed extraordinary commercial success thanks to an early marketing strategy. In 1954, the historic winery Fazi Battaglia—now part of the Angelini family’s portfolio—commissioned engineer Antonio Maiocchi to design a distinctive bottle.
The result was the famous amphora-shaped bottle, which quickly became a standout on the early Italian markets of the economic boom as well as in more established foreign markets. Soon, Verdicchio in amphora became ingrained in the collective imagination, prompting all Marche wineries—even those less focused on quality (which was somewhat elusive at the time)—to imitate Castelplanio’s leading producer. However, this also led to the perception of Verdicchio as a thin, often unripe wine with little organoleptic complexity or ageing potential.
The modern Verdicchio
It was a handful of wineries in the late 1980s that set things right. After recovering from the devastating methanol scandal, they charted a new course with sensory characteristics that were entirely opposite to the old perception. These are the attributes found in the wines listed below, showcasing a versatile white with depth, contemporary brilliance, and the ability to evolve positively for years, all while offering some of the best value-for-money ratios on a global scale.
The best Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi awarded Tre Bicchieri
We have limited this selection to Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi wines awarded Tre Bicchieri in the 2025 Gambero Rosso Italian Wines guide. However, many other wines from the designation stood out in our tastings, demonstrating the expressive strength of this region—thanks also to new wineries committed to one of Italy’s greatest white grape varieties.
L'Ambrosia is one of the modern classics of Verdicchio: the 2021 vintage tells a story of sweet almond, anise, fresh and candied citrus peel, achieving a perfect balance between a more mature soul and a fresher one. Likewise, the sip is well-contrasted between creaminess and a savoury length, creating a crackling effect.
Amato Ceci founded the Vignamato winery, and Maurizio and his wife Serenella gave it a solid foundation before passing it on to the third generation: Andrea and Francesco, with the former handling vineyard and cellar operations and the latter managing sales. This transition, coinciding with the appointment of Pierluigi Lorenzetti as oenological consultant, marked a turning point for the wines, which have since gained consistency in quality, aromatic clarity, and well-structured, harmonious diversity.
Tenuta di Frà
Franz 2021 has a finely citrus profile, gradually unveiling a layered array of sensations of anise, almond, and linden blossom; on the palate, it is complex yet endowed with sublime smoothness and a long, savoury tension.
Franziska Waldner and Hansjörg Ganthaler are long-standing restaurateurs from South Tyrol. Lovers of the Marche region, they decided to invest in the estates of Villa Uliveto in San Vittore and Poggio Antico in Monte San Vito. Then, an opportunity arose for them to acquire a winery in Morro d'Alba. Management and agricultural direction were entrusted to Gianluca Bartolucci, a great expert on the territory. For winemaking, they chose oenologist Pierluigi Lorenzetti. Their wines have a crystalline, modern character.
The grapes from the municipality of San Paolo di Jesi, sourced from the high part of the area known as Acquasalata, rich in marine fossils, give life to the stunning Kochlos Riserva 2022 by Edoardo Dottori: lemon, anise, almond, and fascinating mineral echoes are found in a complex, penetrating mouthfeel, with a sublime drinkability entirely linked to an indomitable force.
The new Cupramontana winery will be operational with the 2024 harvest. Previously, Edoardo was based at Riccardo Baldi’s La Staffa. This did not prevent him from establishing himself as one of the most talented winemakers of the new generation, thanks to clear ideas, rigorous organic practices, and solid technical expertise.
Poderi Mattioli
The Lauro Riserva 2021 is a sumptuous wine with crystalline aromatic expression, a tasting dynamic that merges pleasure and complexity, and a three-dimensional finish. It rightfully earns a place among Italy's finest white wines.
Mattioli never misses a beat. The reason is not hard to grasp: old vines cultivated in a territory with a well-established vocation, meticulous care in vineyard management and harvest timing, and extensive experience in the cellar. The style is modern and elegant, never losing sight of balance and fruit integrity. The right scale allows everything to be managed personally, ensuring a bespoke approach to production.
It is impossible not to fall in love with the view from Fattoria Nannì, the winery of Roberto Cantori: a sweeping vista of Monte San Vicino and the unspoiled countryside. Here, Roberto purchased two plots of old vines located between 380 and 450 metres above sea level, along with a small ruin that was later transformed into an efficient winery. The cool terrain and strong temperature variations, influenced by the nearby massif, give the wines an Apennine profile.
Origini 2022 is a marvel: the very hot vintage was managed brilliantly, yielding a wine of remarkable clarity, with refined scents of anise, citron peel, sweet almond, and river stones, all perfectly articulated in a highly savoury, juicy sip with agile yet deep drinkability. Wonderful.
Riccardo Baldi has new vineyards to oversee, alongside his significant efforts in shaping a dynamic, contemporary style for his wines. At the same time, he spares no effort in promoting and presenting his winery, La Staffa, in the most advanced markets. His dedication pays off with a well-focused range of wines.
The Rincrocca Riserva 2021 offers exquisite notes of lemon peel, anise, and almond, preceding a palate where the acidity's sharpness transforms into a sip of such tension, energy, and vitality that it leaves an immense saline imprint on the finish.
The magnificent San Paolo 2021 presents an aromatic profile full of nuances of aromatic herbs, almonds, citrus peel, and subtle balsamic hints. The palate is a refined fusion of these olfactory perceptions, resulting in a harmonious, vibrant sip with a kaleidoscopic finish.
Pievalta is a continuously evolving project: after completing its guesthouse, it has brought new vineyards into production in highly suitable areas. At the same time, its labels reflect a carefully considered style each year, born from meticulous agronomic management inspired by biodynamic practices and a cellar approach that includes the use of steel, small- and medium-sized wood, and concrete containers.
A highlight of the Selezione Cimarelli 2022 is its deep-rooted connection to the Jesi grape variety: almond, ripe apple, linden blossom, with hints of anise and aromatic herbs; on the palate, it is fragrant, flavourful, vibrant, and culminates in an expanding finish.
The winery, led by Luca Cimarelli and Tommaso Aquilanti, manages 10 hectares of vineyards divided into two plots: one near the winery, with younger vines, and another in the Coste area on the opposite hill, home to the older vines. The cellar uses no wood, not even for ageing the young Rosso Piceno Grizio. Everything is entrusted to steel and vitrified cement. In recent years, technical management has been entrusted to Giuseppe Morelli. A great team effort has propelled the winery to unprecedented heights in its 65-year history.
foto di www.facebook.com/VillaBucci/
In July 2024, news broke of the sale of the winery founded and led by Ampelio Bucci to the Veronesi family, fashion entrepreneurs with growing ambitions in the wine sector. From a technical standpoint, there have been no significant changes: the 2024 harvest was once again overseen by Gabriele Tànfani and Gianni Gasperi, the same professionals who have managed the vineyard and cellar in recent years.
Together, they have created the splendid Villa Bucci 2021: the nose reveals varietal sensations of almond, linden, anise, and chamomile in a play of nuances that reappear on the palate with remarkable gustatory suppleness, an exceptional sip, free of disruptions or drops in intensity.
Historical 2019 benefits from an exceptional vintage for Verdicchio: elegant on the nose with balsamic nuances, anise, almonds, and white fruit, it unfolds into a seductive harmony on the palate, leading to a bright, incredibly long finish.
Being named Winery of the Year in the previous edition of the Gambero Rosso Vini d'Italia guide was no fluke. For years, the Umani Ronchi winery, owned by the Bernetti family, has consistently produced wines of impressive quality, making it difficult to choose the best one. This success is the result of serious planning: vineyards in highly suitable areas, a large selection of plots, a recently renovated state-of-the-art cellar, and an exceptional technical team.
The most representative wine of Tenuta dell'Ugolino is Vigneto del Balluccio, a cru with a south/southwest exposure on cool, clay-rich soil. The 2022 vintage, as always aged in steel, is spectacular: defying the hot year, it offers a bright filigree of citrus, white fruit, and almond aromas that melt into a juicy, full sip of great palate satisfaction, yet capable of stretching into a powerful, saline, enchanting finish.
For several years now, Andrea Petrini, now joined by Matteo Foroni, has been crafting wines of remarkable quality. What once started as a family hobby has become a full-time profession for him, supported by consultant Aroldo Bellelli.
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