Alongside Moscato, Malvasia is one of the grapes with the most ancient and eventful history. In ancient Greece, where it arrived from Asia Minor, it took the name of the port of Monemvasia. From there, thanks first to the maritime (and oenological) prowess of the Greeks and later the Venetians, it spread across the Mediterranean basin and continental Europe within a few centuries. Beyond the Pillars of Hercules, the ancient name for the Strait of Gibraltar, it can also be found in Madeira and even in the Canary Islands.
Malvasia: one name for many varieties
Needless to say, there are numerous varieties of Malvasia. This is not so much due to genetic relationships that developed over the centuries but rather to the immense success of wines made from this grape. Particularly in the Middle Ages and the Modern Era, many wines were named "Malvasia" to sell more easily.
A meticulous reconstruction of the long and fascinating journey of this grape (or rather, these grapes) is provided by Attilio Scienza and Serena Imazio in the book La Stirpe del Vino (The Lineage of Wine, Sperling & Kupfer, 2018), which intertwines the history of this grape with the latest genetic research. It is difficult to summarise in just a few words, but we can highlight some key points.
The lineage of Malvasia
Among the many Malvasia varieties, the one that most closely resembles the ancient Greek Malvasia from Monemvasia is likely Malvasia delle Lipari. Interestingly, its genetic profile is the same as that of Malvasia di Bosa (grown in Sardinia) and Greco di Bianco (grown in Calabria).
This is also the same grape found in the southernmost tip of Dalmatia under the name Malvasia di Dubrovnik, as well as in the Balearic Islands (Malvasia de Banyalbufar), southern Catalonia (Malvasia de Sitges), the Canary Islands (Malvasia de Tenerife), and Madeira.
Aromatic and non-aromatic Malvasias
The other Malvasia varieties cultivated in Italy appear to have different genetic makeups. The aromatic versions (Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco, Malvasia Odorosissima, and Malvasia Nera Lunga) have intertwined their history with that of Moscato, from which they derive their characteristic fragrance.
However, not all Malvasias are aromatic. Those that are not have a completely different genealogical history. This is the case for Malvasia Bianca di Candia, Malvasia Puntinata, and Malvasia Bianca Lunga.
Istrian Malvasia: a unique case
This is also true for Istrian Malvasia (also called Friulian or Carso Malvasia). This variety, shared between Friuli Venezia Giulia and Croatia, is unique. Research conducted so far has not been able to establish genetic relationships with other varieties, and both its history and diffusion remain something of a mystery.
What we do know for certain is that this grape can produce outstanding white wines that balance structure, warmth, richness, and finesse. These characteristics are even more pronounced when the wines are opened a few years after the harvest.
The best value-for-money Malvasia wines from Friuli Venezia Giulia
We have compiled a list of the best Malvasia wines from Friuli that we have tasted, reviewed in the Berebene and Vini d'Italia 2025 guides by Gambero Rosso. These wines come from different areas of the region, primarily Collio and Colli Orientali, and we have focused on those that offer great value for money.
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For the fourth consecutive year, Maurizio Buzzinelli’s Malvasia '23 tops the ranking of a series of impeccable wines, confirming itself as one of the best in its category and reaching the final selections. Its aromatic complexity recalls a medley of fragrant fruit, a bouquet of wildflowers, and the scent of mountain meadows during haymaking. The taste is enveloping, satisfying, and very long-lasting.
The winery managed by Maurizio Buzzinelli contributes, along with other outstanding local producers, to enhancing a truly excellent terroir made up of the gentle slopes of the Pradis hills, near Cormòns. With its proven expertise, the winery offers a range of white wines that do justice to the renowned characteristics of Collio Goriziano, while for red wines, it takes advantage of the genetic potential of the iron-rich soils that characterize the Isonzo river plain.
The Malvasia '23 presents delicate hints of medicinal herbs, especially bay leaf, and on the palate, it is lively, enveloping, and tasty.
Overlooking the border with Slovenia, the Gorizian hamlet of Oslavia is home to several prestigious wineries, the result of the hard work of diligent farmers proud of their land and vineyards. The Figelj family has lived and worked here for over two centuries.
The new generation, consisting of Martin, Robert, and Matej, has also embraced the company's philosophy, which is based on low yields and the use of eco-friendly products, with total respect for nature and environmental sustainability.
Overlooking the border with Slovenia, the Gorizian hamlet of Oslavia is home to several prestigious wineries, the result of the work of hardworking farmers proud of their land and vineyards. The Figelj family has lived and worked here for over two centuries. The new generation—Martin, Robert, and Matej—has embraced the family philosophy, which is based on low yields and the use of eco-friendly products, with total respect for nature and environmental sustainability.
Pighin’s Malvasia '23 stood out during our tastings for its distinct varietal imprint.
Pioneers of Friulian wine in the world—this is how the Pighin family defines itself. In 1963, they settled in Risano, purchasing a vast vineyard-covered estate, including a 17th-century Venetian villa surrounded by a wonderful park that houses the company headquarters. A few years later, they expanded their holdings by acquiring another estate in Spessa di Capriva, in Collio Goriziano. Today, the responsibility of carrying forward the family legacy lies with the dynamic duo, Roberto and Raffaela.
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Ronco dei Tassi’s Malvasia '23 presents a strong floral character, with notes of mimosa, broom, and sunflower, followed by aromas of yellow peach and candied citrus, with hints of marjoram and mint. On the palate, it is creamy yet fresh and agile.
In 1989, Fabio Coser and his wife Daniela founded Ronco dei Tassi, purchasing a farm on the edge of a fascinating nature park in Cormòns, in Montona, on the slopes of Monte Quarin, facing Slovenia. The name was inspired by the badger colonies that populate the forests surrounding the vineyards. The next generation, Matteo and Enrico, has already become an integral part of the winery.
Sturm’s Malvasia '23 emits pleasant aromas of honeysuckle, cedar, white peach, oregano, and bay leaf. On the palate, it is rich in flavor and finishes with clear balsamic notes.
The Sturm family winery dates back to 1850, and thanks to Oscar, it has carved out a leading role in the regional wine scene, achieving excellence. Oscar remains active, especially in the vineyards, but today the winery is run by his sons, Denis and Patrick, who embrace the philosophy that "making organic wines means taking a step forward by looking back." They only use essential treatments with copper and sulfur and no herbicides.
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Vosca’s Malvasia '23 is one of their flagship wines, appreciated for maintaining its varietal characteristics and frequently making it to our final selections.
Its aromatic profile opens with fruity notes of Golden apple, peach, loquat, and bergamot, followed by intriguing hints of bay leaf, incense, sage, and rosemary. The palate is enveloping and structured, with a fresh balsamic character and a decisive sapidity that lingers until the finish.
Dario Coos’ Malvasia '23 ranked among the best in its category, reaching the final tastings. It offers pleasant aromas of ripe white-fleshed fruit, dandelion, and medicinal herbs, while the taste is satisfying.
Founded in 1986 by Dario Coos, this winery became famous for producing Picolit and Ramandolo, the latter being a sweet wine made from Verduzzo Giallo, a variety with small, thick-skinned, and resistant grapes. Today, the winery, still bearing Dario Coos’ name, is managed by a small group of passionate partners who have diversified and expanded their offerings, adding a range of wines from native grapes to increase visibility in the market.
Ermacora’s Malvasia '23 is excellent, with aromas of dried medicinal herbs, flowers, and fragrant fruit.
In the early 20th century, the Ermacora family had the foresight to plant vineyards in the hills of Ipplis, aware that the Eocene-origin calcareous clay soils, though not very fertile but rich in minerals, were particularly suited for producing high-quality wines. This family-run business has been passed down for generations. Today, Dario and Luciano lead the winery, while the new generation is ready to take over.
Paolo Rodaro’s Malvasia Fiore '22 is one of the most prestigious labels, boasting a rich aromatic bouquet featuring fruit medley, lemon zest, and almond, followed by sage, thyme, delicate spices, and a touch of sea breeze. On the palate, it is silky, with savory hints that make it engaging and enjoyable.
A dynamic and enterprising artisan winemaker, Paolo Rodaro continuously seeks new challenges despite already achieving major milestones. He has introduced the prestigious “Romain” line for full-bodied red wines, and together with his wife Lara, he has focused on Metodo Classico Pas Dosé sparkling wines, the new flagship of the winery.
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Andrea Visintini’s Malvasia '23 is highly varietal, with complex herbal aromas, blond orange marmalade, yellow flowers, propolis, and toasted hazelnuts. The taste is balanced, with pronounced sapidity and balsamic notes.
Malvasia Harmo '22 is well-balanced and harmonious.
This respected regional winery was founded in the 1960s by a group of Cormòns winemakers, who joined forces when they could not vinify individually. Recently, the arrival of Alessandro dal Zovo as general director, supported by Filippo Bregant as president, has given the winery a new push toward quality production.
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