The Etna DOC has seen rapid expansion in a short time. The success of the wines from "a Muntagna" has been driven by reds based on Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, but more recently, there has been a surge in whites based on Grillo and Catarratto. The rosé version represents a third path that is slowly gaining more and more approval. Despite the fact that there are still few producers dedicated to this type, there are excellent interpretations of Nerello Mascalese and Cappuccio vinified in rosé. Fresh, mineral, balanced wines, played on the pleasure of small red fruits and floral notes. A small gem to keep an eye on and add to your list of wines to uncork this summer.
The wines of Etna
Nearly two-thirds of Sicily's Tre Bicchieri awards in the 2024 Gambero Rosso guide went to whites and reds (and one rosé) from the vineyards of Etna. This is further confirmation of the extraordinary vocation of this terroir, which manages to surprise us every year with memorable tastings. But the whole of Sicily is quickly moving towards quality, in every style, in every area, regardless of the size of the companies, from large cooperatives to small artisan winemakers or internationally renowned producers.
Last year, during tastings for the guide, we sampled about 350 Etna wines on site over five days. We were the first to discover and reward this extraordinary district, which had been forgotten for years. The most frequent comments were, "On Etna, you really have to try hard to make a bad wine," and, "The volcano doesn't lie, the vintages are perfectly readable." Noteworthy is also the significant increase in labels bearing the name of the production district, a sort of "Burgundization" widely predicted by industry experts, especially Giacomo Tachis.
The best Etna DOC rosato wines
While we await the results of the ongoing tastings for the new 2025 Gambero Rosso guide, here are the Etna rosé wines that earned Tre Bicchieri, Due Bicchieri Rossi, and Due Bicchieri during last year's blind tastings for the guide:
Terra Costantino - EtnaRosato de Aetna 2022: the winery, a pioneer of organic farming on Etna, earned its first Tre Bicchieri for the consistent quality with which the Costantino family has always produced uncompromising wine. The de Aetna Rosato 2022 smells of roses, cherry, peach, and raspberry, with thyme and basil; fresh and saline, it opens well in the mouth, balanced between fruit and acidity, with a slight but lively tannicity that enhances its drinkability.
Torre Mora - Etna Rosato Scalunera 2022 (100% Nerello Mascalese): This finalist wine is charming with tones of rose petals, mountain herbs, and tabacchiera peach; in the mouth, it is subtle, refined, with veins of slate, fine and satisfying. The rest of the products from Mario Piccini's Sicilian winery, a renowned Tuscan producer, are also good.
Graci - Etna Rosato 2022 (100% Nerello Mascalese): One of the wines presented this year by Alberto Aiello Graci, a young financial promise who fell under the evocative spell of Etna. Returning from Milan, he dedicated himself to a family winemaking tradition, becoming a wine bigwig. The formula: few chosen hectares, local cultivars, care for the different districts and nuances of each wine, enhancing the integrity of the fruit, sustainability.
Tenute Bosco - Etna Rosato 2022: Presented by the Ponzini sisters, positioned on the north side of Etna between Passopisciaro and Randazzo. They manage a dozen hectares in certified organic farming, scattered over three different districts. Their production, characterized by a style that successfully combines varietal identity and territory, is of remarkable quality.
Barone di Villagrande - Etna Rosato 2022: From the Nicolosi Asmundo family, tied for centuries to the Villagrande district in Milo. Here, at 700 meters altitude on the east side of Etna facing Taormina and the Ionian Sea, lies their vast agricultural estate. Marco Nicolosi has recently created a refined relais within the estate with a view over the oldest Carricante vineyard.
Alta Mora - Etna Rosato 2022 (100% Nerello Mascalese): Pleasantly iodized and red-fruit nuanced, fleshy and lively. In 2013, Alberto and Diego Cusumano started their project on Etna, focusing on the most quality-oriented crus and vinifying them at their sustainable and landscape-integrated Verzella winery. They have vineyards in Pietramarina, Solicchiata, Feudo di Mezzo, and Guardiola at varying altitudes.
Arì - Etna Rosato 2022: Very pleasant, with citrus, rose, and nectarine peach notes, lively and captivating, with a delicate fruity finish.
Renato Maugeri - Etna Rosato Contrada Volpare 2022: Exceptional quality across the range of wines presented last year by Renato Maugeri, who, with his daughters, has established one of the most interesting realities on the southern side of Etna.
Tenuta di Fessina - Etna Rosato Erse 2022 (Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio): Presented this year by the company from Castiglione di Sicilia. Silvia Maestrelli's strong relationship with Etna is reflected in her elegant, passionate wines. Her daughter Lavinia Silva, who now runs the maison, continues this enlightened vision, finding a sensitive enologist in Benedetto Alessandro.
Pietradolce - Etna Rosato 2022 (100% Nerello Mascalese): Produced by Mario and Michele Faro, who have chosen to invest in old vineyards, reaching 32 hectares across a mosaic of 50 different parcels, all vinified separately in their modern Solicchiata winery. All wines presented this year are of the highest quality.
Calcagno - Romice delle Sciare 2022 (Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio): Impactful with notes of peach and citrus and a long smoky finish. This small agricultural reality was intelligently established by Franco and Gianni Calcagno, joined by Giusy, with vineyards at strategic locations at 650 meters altitude.
Alessandro - Etna Rosato Vignazza 2021: The Alessandro cousins, fourth generation at the helm of the family winery, have carved out a space for themselves on Etna. The three polyglots have divided the tasks: Anna handles administration and hospitality, Benedetto (renowned enologist) the production, and the other Benedetto, an agronomist and international marketing specialist, oversees this segment. So far, the results have been excellent.