If we were to list the most popular black grape varieties in central Italy, we would certainly include Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Sagrantino, and Cesanese. However, alongside these widely cultivated and prestigious varieties, many other grapes contribute to a diverse ampelographic landscape, often yielding pleasant surprises. One such grape is undoubtedly Ciliegiolo.
Ciliegiolo: the origins of the grape variety
The origins of Ciliegiolo appear to be ancient. Some believe it was the grape used by the Etruscans, who inhabited these very lands, for their winemaking. Others suggest that the grape—its name clearly referencing its cherry-like aroma—originated in Spain and was introduced to central Italy around the second half of the 19th century by pilgrims returning from Santiago de Compostela. However, recent genetic studies on the variety lean towards a purely Italian origin, as Ciliegiolo appears to have a very close genetic relationship with Sangiovese.
It would be a mistake to think of it as a sort of Cinderella grape. That may have been the case a few decades ago when it was primarily used in blends, but with a renewed awareness among winemakers, Ciliegiolo is now increasingly vinified as a single varietal, yielding truly intriguing results. It is particularly common in Umbria and Tuscany.
In Umbria, it is primarily cultivated in the rolling hills around Narni and Amelia, in the southern part of the region near the Lazio border. In Tuscany, it has thrived in the Maremma, where the number of hectares planted with Ciliegiolo for the Maremma Toscana DOC is set to double in the coming years. It can also occasionally be found in vineyards in Liguria.
We mentioned that Ciliegiolo was once used primarily for blending. However, it was in the late 1970s that some winemakers began vinifying it in purity. Looking at how things have unfolded, this was a brilliant choice. The contemporary style—marked by fruity vibrancy and lightness—seems tailor-made for this variety, which, in its more ambitious expressions, can even age gracefully for a few years.
The new entry in the Tre Bicchieri
With the Maremma Toscana Ciliegiolo San Lorenzo '21, the Sassotondo winery has earned the Tre Bicchieri for the first time. This estate is a historical champion of the Ciliegiolo variety. It is run by Carla Benini and Edoardo Ventimiglia, who, when interviewed after receiving the award, explained that they use indigenous yeasts, follow biodynamic principles, but are not overly rigid in their approach.
The best Ciliegiolo wines tasted this year
If you’re unfamiliar with Ciliegiolo and curious to explore it, here are some recommendations to guide you in your discovery. Below is a list of the best Ciliegiolo wines from Umbria and Tuscany, reviewed in Gambero Rosso’s Vini d’Italia 2025 and Berebene 2025 wine guides. Many of these labels also offer excellent value for money.
Umbria
Two wines sit at the top of Leonardo Bussoletti’s production, both made from Ciliegiolo. 05035 is a strikingly drinkable red, juicy and lively, with a savory and impeccably clean finish. Ràmici is the real thoroughbred: complex, deep, and elegant, with aromas of blackberry, pepper, and a touch of earthiness. On the palate, it is savory, with well-integrated acidity and exceptional smoothness.
Leonardo Bussoletti has brought prestige to the entire Narni area through Grechetto, Trebbiano, and above all, Ciliegiolo—three native grape varieties that define the region’s viticultural identity. An enlightened producer, he has enhanced Umbria’s winemaking tradition without falling into nostalgia, interpreting it instead through elegant wines with character, flavor, and persistence. The perfect union of technique, skill, and passion is evident in every glass.
The Ciliegiolo Flo '22 is a lively and joyful wine, with a fresh and savoury drinkability, aromas of blackberries and raspberries, and a very clean finish. Giulia and Francesco run the La Madeleine winery, acquired by their parents, Linda and Massimo d'Alema. The winery was founded in 2008 following the acquisition of an old farm. Just over seven hectares of vineyards host a variety of grapes, ranging from traditional local varieties to international ones. The production stands out for its international style, describing a diverse range of wines that includes whites, reds, rosés, and two Metodo Classico sparkling wines.
The Ciliegiolo Antichi Cloni originates from an old vineyard, while the wine itself is young, juicy, and stands out for its agile sip and fragrant finish. The Zanchi winery is run by the third generation of producers in Amelia, in the province of Terni. The estate follows organic farming practices, focusing on indigenous grape varieties that are vinified as single-varietal wines, such as Ciliegiolo, Grechetto, Malvasia, and Trebbiano.
Rustic yet with a good fruit core, the Ciliegiolo '22 reveals hints of undergrowth and earthy notes, with decent length. The Spalletti family manages the Pomario estate, a beautiful winery located on the border between Umbria and Tuscany, in the municipality of Piegaro. Both indigenous and international grape varieties are cultivated under organic farming, following an artisanal philosophy. The wide range of wines embraces new trends in drinkability without forgetting tradition.
The Ciliegiolo Marchesi Ruffo della Scaletta has aromas of red and black fruits such as plum and Vignola cherry, while on the palate, it is fleshy and enveloping. The Ruffo della Scaletta estate is an extensive Umbrian agricultural project spanning 650 hectares. The winery is managed by Rufo Ruffo, the sixth generation of the family, with the goal of integrating tradition and modernity, ancient and innovative methods, to maintain excellence in results.
Fruity and lively, the Ciliegiolo di Narni is crisp and remarkably pleasant on the palate. Coming from a tradition of master coopers, in the 1960s, the Paciacconi family, owners of the Sandonna estate, started planting vineyards in the 1980s, eventually building a new winery in 2006. Ciliegiolo and Grechetto are the estate’s flagship wines, ideal for developing the geological and climatic potential of the plateau where they are grown.
Tuscany
The aromas of Ciliegiolo Nel Tufo '22, with its evocative name, recall freshly ripened red berries and are accompanied by a solid and well-structured sip, moving dynamically towards a crisp finish. This is a Ciliegiolo capable of conveying the essence of its terroir, combining strength and elegance. It evokes the sensation of gazing at the delicate profile of Pitigliano and its 16th-century aqueduct, perched on a sheer tuff cliff.
• Maremma Toscana Ciliegiolo Nel Tufo '22 - Cantina di Pitigliano
A pure Ciliegiolo, the Scampoli '22, displays fine aromatic definition with touches of pomegranate and spices over a balsamic background. On the palate, it delivers an equally convincing gustatory experience: juicy, savoury, and enjoyable, with a persistent and well-defined finish. Poggio Brigante, located near Magliano in Toscana, is run by Franco Rossi and his son Leonardo, who cultivate around twenty hectares of vineyards.
The excellent Ciliegiolo Silio '22 is intensely fruity. Montauto is located near Manciano, an area that represents a different kind of Maremma—unlike the coastal regions where vines grow near the sea in a typically warm climate. Here, the conditions, including soil composition, are not entirely opposite but certainly distinct. Riccardo Lepri has long focused on Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, as well as an artisanal approach to Vermentino and Ciliegiolo, always aiming for balance, finesse, and drinkability.
The San Lorenzo '21 does not disappoint expectations: over the years, this Ciliegiolo has gained greater definition. Beneath a balsamic streak, intense aromas of blueberry and blackberry jam emerge, evolving into notes of liquorice, cardamom, and undergrowth. On the palate, it is rich, voluminous, and glyceric, with a savoury and spicy finish. Carla Benini and Edoardo Ventimiglia made a bold, life-changing choice. Their commitment and consistent quality have made them key figures in the Tuscan Maremma wine scene. Sassotondo spans 12 hectares and is a historical guardian of the Ciliegiolo grape, as well as a sensitive interpreter of the tuff lands of Sorano, Pitigliano, and Sovana.
• Maremma Toscana Ciliegiolo San Lorenzo '21 - Sassotondo
A rustic touch adds great personality to Il Poggio '22 by Rascioni e Cecconello, a pure Ciliegiolo with aromas of earth, pomegranate, and undergrowth, leading to a savoury, continuous sip with a crisp finish.
The Ciliegiolo Vallerana Alta '22 has aromas of blueberry and blackberry, introducing a palate with agile, delicious, and vibrant development. Antonio Camillo has demonstrated great sensitivity in understanding the deepest characteristics of Ciliegiolo, the most important variety for his wines, seeking out its various expressive tones in the vineyards—indeed, in multiple vineyards. These are plots rented from elderly farmers in the most remote parts of Maremma, from Capalbio to Manciano, Montemerano to Pitigliano, recovered from the past and brought into the present. A true viticultural archaeology project that continues today with new protagonists such as Grenache and Carignan.
With a nose beautifully played on the intersection of small fruits, spices, and balsamic touches, Il Poderone '21, a pure Ciliegiolo, moves with rhythm on the palate, balancing savoury notes with fruity echoes. The Terre dell’Etruria cooperative operates with a well-conceived approach, almost as if it were a private winery. Only the production of selected members, those who best interpret local varieties—from Sangiovese to Ciliegiolo, Vermentino to Ansonica—contributes to the estate’s portfolio. A collection of wines that are pleasant yet full of character, executed with authority and capable of standing out both for their deep connection to their terroir and for their convincing, contemporary stylistic identity.
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