The 5 best Vermentinos from Sardinia selected by Gambero Rosso (with a winery awarded for the first time)

Dec 6 2024, 16:23
Of the 17 Sardinian wines we awarded with Tre Bicchieri, 5 are Vermentinos, produced from the homonymous grape variety, the most widely cultivated on the island. Among those from Gallura and Sardinia, here are the finest labels

Some claim that Vermentino is a Spanish grape that later spread to the southern coasts of France, Corsica, and naturally Liguria, Sardinia, and Tuscany (particularly the Bolgheri coast and Maremma); others trace its origins to Anatolia, believing it arrived in the western Mediterranean through Greek navigators' trade routes; others still consider it an Italian indigenous variety that later spread throughout the “Mare Nostrum.” Whatever its origin, Vermentino is undoubtedly a grape variety that has seen considerable commercial success in recent years. Despite the differences in terroir, wines made from Vermentino exhibit some common characteristics, such as intense aromas of aromatic herbs, juicy fruit notes, salty hints, and a distinct Mediterranean character.

Here, we focus on the diverse (and best) expressions of Vermentino cultivated in Sardinia, a region whose biodiversity produces increasingly distinctive, authentic wines capable of telling the story of their territories. These range from vineyards over 700 meters above sea level—a true mountain viticulture—to rows planted near the sea, with the expected climatic differences. This is why we insist on the necessity of a complete overhaul of the denomination of origin system, especially the regional ones, which are generic, scattered, and no longer representative of what is happening in this region.

Vermentino from Gallura and Sardinia

Vermentino is the most widely cultivated grape variety in Sardinia, but it is important to distinguish between the two main denominations. Gallura is the classic Vermentino-growing area. It encompasses a fairly large region in the northeastern part of the island, covering almost the entire province of Olbia-Tempio and extending into the upper part of the Nuoro province, with vineyards situated both near the sea and in more inland areas. The cultivated area is continuously expanding, but production, regulated by the DOCG (Vermentino di Gallura was Sardinia’s first DOCG in 1996), allows for relatively low yields. While production is varied, the most typical Vermentino di Gallura is the Superiore: smooth, full-bodied, and pleasantly fruity.

The Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (established in 1988) covers the entire island, stretching from Sulcis and Cagliari in the south to Gallura in the north.

The new entry among Tre Bicchieri

This year, Tenute Gregu achieved its first Tre Bicchieri with its Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Pitraia Monogram 2021. This label is part of the new Monogram line and is released three years after harvest. Gregu has invested in one of the most beautiful estates in the Gallura region, where Vermentino finds a natural habitat, growing in granite soils surrounded by Mediterranean scrub, olive trees, and rocks.

The best Vermentinos from Sardinia awarded Tre Bicchieri

Here are the Sardinian Vermentinos that received the highest accolade in the Gambero Rosso 2025 Italian Wines guide.

Stellato Vermentino 2023 – Pala

The Stellato ‘23 is one of the great Vermentinos of southern Sardinia: savory, iodized, with varied aromas ranging from wildflowers to yellow fruit, and touches of aromatic herbs. The family name, Pala, lends its name to the winery, which has been operating for 60 years. Led by Mario, along with his children Elisabetta and Massimiliano, the winery thrives on the knowledge and passion passed down over the years. The estate spans eight different properties, from Serdiana to Oristano, totaling about 100 hectares of vineyards. The numerous labels in their portfolio showcase various terroirs and grape varieties, including Cannonau, Bovale, Vermentino, and Nuragus, each with its own distinctive nuances.

Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Pitraia Monogram 2021 – Tenute Gregu

The Pitraia is part of the new Monogram line, released three years post-harvest. Its aromas balance the freshness of primary fruit with tertiary notes. The palate is energetic and dynamic, demonstrating that aging in some Vermentinos is nothing to fear. For about 20 years, the Gregu family has invested in one of the most beautiful estates in Gallura, where Vermentino thrives in granite soils surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation, olive trees, and rocks. Their white wines reflect the character of their origin and reveal an unexpected longevity for Vermentino. All wines are crafted with profound respect for the grape varieties and the terroir.

Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Sciala 2023 – Surrau

The Sciala ‘23 is an exceptional Vermentino di Gallura, among the best of its kind. It is savory and fresh, with iodized and herbal notes, and exhibits remarkable depth of flavor. Surrau’s vineyards, spanning over 50 hectares, are situated in the hills of Arzachena, in the heart of Gallura. The seven vineyard sites, located between 50 and 150 meters above sea level, feature sandy and granite soils that impart unique characteristics to their wines, particularly Vermentino, which thrives in this ideal northeastern Sardinian habitat.

Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Sienda 2023 – Mura

The Sienda ‘23 offers intense floral and fruity sensations, with a hint of fresh almond leading to an elegant, highly savory palate. The Mura winery, established over 40 years ago, is located in Loiri Porto San Paolo, near Olbia. Today, its 20 hectares are managed by siblings Salvatore (handling sales) and Marianna (winemaker), children of Filippo, the founder. While Vermentino remains the focus, the winery also produces labels from Bovale and Cannonau. The vines thrive in granite, sandy, and clay soils, which contribute to the wines’ character, minerality, and typicity, while the climate enhances their elegance and finesse.

Vermentino di Sardegna Tuvaoes 2023 – Giovanni Maria Cherchi

The Tuvaoes ‘23 epitomizes Vermentino di Sardegna. Its bouquet combines white flowers and fruit with hints of mint, almond, and aromatic herbs, while the palate is refined, elegant, fresh, and highly savory. The winery’s founder had the ambitious goal of showcasing the Usini territory, with its calcareous-clay soils. This remains a guiding principle in production today. The estate’s 30 hectares benefit from marine influences and a 200-meter altitude, which enhance the freshness and aromas of their wines. The varieties Cannonau, Vermentino, and Cagnulari are expressed through three lines (Classics, Billia, and Speciali), complemented by a dessert wine and a Metodo Classico sparkling wine.

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