The magical moment of Piedmontese wine continues. You realize things are going well when the market forgives any mistakes, perhaps due more to some clumsy choices than to wrong production directions. The Piedmont wine world continues to make strides, although sometimes at the expense of the utmost integrity of the machinery; the important thing is to keep going and never stop.
One of the problems we talked about a few years ago, namely the "nebbiolization" of the Langhe vineyard, has become a beautiful opportunity for new territories, which, taking advantage of the success of the grape variety, have stepped on the accelerator, increasing the hectares dedicated to it.
We think especially of lesser-known denominations or even territories of very recent recognition. Nebbiolo historically was present even in Turin and Monferrato, but today, with the birth of new denominations or the modification of others already existing, Nebbiolo gains weight. In Monferrato, in much of the provinces of Asti and Alessandria, numerous winemakers have planted it, managing to obtain wines of growing interest, with some truly remarkable peaks.
Recently, the most curious enthusiasts have discovered a relatively new and still little-known DOC, heralding significant promises: Albugnano. It is a rather small area in the north of the province of Asti, bordering the Turin Hills and the homonymous province. The production area includes the entire territory of the municipalities of Albugnano, Pino d'Asti, Castelnuovo Don Bosco, and Passerano-Marmorito.
The grape varieties allowed to produce wines of the Albugnano DOC are Nebbiolo (minimum 85%) and, when present, Freisa, Barbera, Bonarda, alone or together (maximum 15%). The types of Albugnano DOC wine produced are Albugnano DOC, Albugnano rosé, and Superiore.
Currently, production is in the hands of a few farmers and some enlightened entrepreneurs, but as soon as word spreads, we could witness a new gold rush not unlike what we've seen in the Tortona area, which has attracted the attention of numerous winemakers from much more famous Piedmontese wine areas. The only obstacle could be the limited extension of the Albugnano area.
The best Albugnano DOC wines
Here we focus on the best expressions of Albugnano DOC evaluated this year with Due Bicchieri Rossi or Due Bicchieri in the Gambero Rosso 2024 Wine Guide.
The oenological project of Marco Negro and Carlo Quaglia is decidedly well-structured: a production center in Agliano dedicated to Barbera and one in Albugnano for its majesty, Nebbiolo. The Berenices 2021 stands out with extremely fine notes (red fruit, pepper, and violet) on the nose and a silky tannic mouthfeel.
The wines presented this year by Tenuta Tamburnin, owned by the Gaidano sisters since 2004 and certified organic, are of excellent quality. Of the twenty hectares owned, nine are cultivated with vineyards, located all around the cellar, on clay-ferrous soils with red clay presence. The Albugnano Carlin 2021 offers raspberry and tobacco tones, harmonious and very drinkable, while the Superiore 2019 is more austere, gritty, and tannic.
Two elegant Albugnano 2018 wines from the Terre dei Santi winery: the refined and full-bodied Ultimum, rich in fruity (raspberry) and spicy (white pepper) aromas with progressive and harmonious tannins. The Finibus Terrae remains slightly more delicate. All the wines from the Finibus Terrae line are of excellent quality.
The Albugnano Superiore Notturno 2021 has a complex nose of red fruit and ginger, a full-bodied and beautifully soft palate, but with a long and fresh finish. Paolo Vergnano, son of Gianni, founder of the Cascina Gilli winery, continues the work of rediscovering lesser-known but highly interesting terroirs, helped by Giovanni Matteis and Gianpiero Gerbi. The company is located in Castelnuovo Don Bosco, where the soil, rich in gray-blue marls, which provide volume and minerality to the production, is mainly cultivated with Freisa, especially on the Cornareto hill. On the nearby hill of Schierano, in Passerano Marmorito, Malvasia, Bonarda, and Barbera are the protagonists.
Albugnano Sup. Notturno 2021 - Cascina Gilli
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