The 6 new 'Tre Forchette' restaurants of Gambero Rosso: here they are

Innovative language and lateral thinking are what the new Tre Forchette in Gambero Rosso’s Ristoranti d’Italia 2025 Guide have in common. But beyond their shared qualities, what strikes most is the uniqueness of each kitchen and its respective creators. Here’s a presentation of them.

Six Tre Forchette restaurants for the first time

Dina

Until then if not before. This is the almost romantic mantra of Alberto Gipponi, one of the unclassifiable figures in Italian cuisine. His vision carries a freshness born from continual amazement, a search for new languages typical of the “dummie” that he remains at heart, coming from other worlds (primarily sociology). His goal is to surprise himself first, and everything else follows. So, here’s to lateral thinking, even when its starting point is a place in Franciacorta dedicated to his grandmother, which might suggest a more conventional approach. But no, this is a restaurant of escapism (at the very least, from normality) and a bit of subversion.

The venue comprises various, entirely distinct environments: shadows, overexposures, colours, blacks and whites—each room is a world of its own because Gipponi's mind is a jungle, and whoever visits him becomes its explorer. And he brings an emotional and ironic approach (after all, what is irony if not a desire for tenderness?) that disarms. We suspect he wants everyone to love him, even those who don’t fully understand him, and for this reason, he sometimes seems to seek ways to rein in certain excesses of inaccessibility.

One menu, Antologia, offers a retrospective of Dina’s first six years with dishes that remain current, such as Arctic char with rose, casoncelli with Grana Padano cream, oyster and bay leaf risotto, and a tart that’s “raw yet cooked.” But the names barely hint at the estrangement within this journey, one of the most interesting and personal experiences you may encounter in Italy. Then there’s the more recent *Cucina Ragionale* menu, which must be booked in advance and is recommended for those who have already visited Dina and are open to imperfection. In any case, Alberto gives himself generously to those who come to see him, almost surprised by the occasion, and he conceives the act of cooking and eating as a "do ut des" ("I give so that you may give"): he explains, narrates, reveals himself, almost as if in a napkin-clad psychotherapy session, at times asking, listening, and reflecting. After all, if cooking is an act of memory, the future begins today.

Gussago (BS) – via Santa Croce, 1 – 030 2523051 - www.dinaristorante.com

Andrea Aprea Ristorante

Now that he has settled into his new premises atop the Fondazione Luigi Rovati, from where you can glimpse the Milanese skyscrapers, Andrea Aprea displays a new awareness within a project that was already ambitious yet whose success was far from guaranteed. He has put forth an idea of cuisine that is both precise and daring, a memory that is not only personal but also collective and historical, which we could call his "contemporary Neapolitan spirit." It avoids clichés and, when he does lean into them, it’s only with a ladleful of irony. The fact is that a meal at Aprea’s is one of the finest experiences one can secure in Milan, with a failure rate close to zero and a boredom rate equally low, also because the continuous dialogue between different tastes (bitter, sweet, sour, salty) and varying textures keeps the taste buds and the mind awake.

Three menus, each in distinct directions. Il Partenope (€230) represents his idea of origins: peperone 'mbuttunato with calamari, Selva egg “Purgatorio style,” cannelloni with donkey genovese and courgettes in scapece. Il Contemporaneità (€200) is the shortest yet the most challenging, with creations such as veal sweetbreads with black shallots, asparagus, and goat’s milk ricotta curd. Then there is the signature menu listing the year of conception: devilled cuttlefish (2015), *potato all’amatriciana in foil* (2016), and the colourful, almost Pollock-esque, ri-sotto marino. And Andrea frequently makes an appearance to add his charismatic touch. The locale, designed by Flaviano Capriotti, is spectacular, and there’s also the bistro.

Milano – corso Venezia, 52 c/o Fondazione Luigi Rovati – 02 38273030 - www.andreaaprea.com

L'Argine a Vencò

The romantic stone farmhouse, nestled between the edge of nowhere and the borders of Collio, has recently undergone another careful renovation, immersing itself in nature through wide glass windows. Inside, almost revolutionary choices are made, such as bare tablecloths adorning the few tables, with a simple green nod to the season as the only decorative element. Ultimately, reducing to the essential, stripping even natural colours, serves to enhance the substance by emphasising its simplicity. Imagine the layer between the lemon peel and pulp—something that, for most, would be discarded as waste once the citrus is squeezed. Yet, in the hands of Antonia Klugmann, it takes on meaning beyond mere whimsy or anti-waste theory, becoming the purest, most fundamental idea of an amuse-bouche.

Even regulars find themselves disoriented in Vencò, with creations like “soaked and roasted” fennel seed bread or the bay leaf and wild asparagus sorbet, which seems to suspend two forms of ravioli: a small one with Zore robiola, white asparagus extract, plum blossom oil, and almond; and a larger one with wild garlic, peas, watercress, and fir, the latter adding a borderline bitter note. The award-winning chef’s creative spirit and determined nature stem from a diverse background: she plays the flute, was a sailing champion, practiced competitive skiing, and studied law—attributes of a multifaceted personality that shines through in her kaleidoscopic miniature preparations. Whether part of the two tasting menus (a smaller one at €100, a more complete one at €130) or chosen à la carte, it is the meticulous planning of the dish followed by rigorous execution that ultimately wins out.

Dolegna del Collio (GO) – località Vencò, 15 – 350 5212804 - www.largineavenco.it

DaGorini

The establishment run by Gianluca Gorini and Sara Silvani has become a must-visit stop for enthusiasts passing through this quieter part of Romagna, much like the peaceful, relaxing locale hidden among the stone streets of San Piero in Bagno. "daGorini is a home," reads the menu, and it's true: it has the rare ability to combine a warm, intimate, relaxed atmosphere (perhaps thanks to the fireplace at the entrance, who knows) with an offering that shines with originality and quality ingredients, effortlessly drawing from personal insights, rural echoes (such as the stewed rabbit with ash potatoes, hazelnut, and fried rosemary), and contemporary influences (like the warm spaghetti with tomato water, apricot, and almond).

This is gentle yet bold cuisine, where Gorini confidently plays with herbaceous, toasted, and bitter notes, guiding you towards unexpected depths almost imperceptibly (take, for example, the filled pasta with game, mushroom broth, seaweed, vegetables, and pork tips). Credit goes to the fully satisfying dishes and the precision of the cooking: the pigeon (seared over coals with bay leaf extract and baked onion) or the sweetbread we tried in spring with chamomile, ginger, lettuce, and peas—a fragrant synthesis of early warmth. In the summer menu, it’s more challenging and bold, paired with grilled kiwi and grey mullet bottarga.

Gorini’s work continues to grow steadily, expressing a fully developed talent that confidently handles carefully chosen ingredients, integrating technical and conceptual complexity to the point of making it invisible—all while making guests feel completely at ease. A range of menus (from €78 to €140) offers a customizable path along with a list of classics, like the wood pigeon, risotto with mushrooms, tobacco, almond milk, and calamint, or the grilled artichoke with artichoke sauce and toasted herb pesto.

Bagno di Romagna (FC) – via G. Verdi, 5 – 0543 1908056 - dagorini.it

Dalla Gioconda

The horizon is the theme at La Gioconda. It’s there in the toponymy, as the road where it stands is named after it. It’s there in the vistas from Gabicce Monte’s highest point: the endless blue line drawn by the Adriatic, the sleek silhouette of the Romagna coast stretching up to Rimini, views reaching from the Rocca di San Marino to the countryside of San Bartolo. But it’s also in a culinary line that’s convincing, liberated, and personal, one that knows how to work with the sea without denying the land. This is the cuisine of Davide Di Fabio, an Abruzzo-born chef who trained for years under Massimo Bottura in Modena.

Three tasting menus are offered: Hit Parade (€110), featuring the most popular hits; New Release (€140), showcasing the latest creations; and Orto e Fantasia (€140 for 9 courses, €110 for 6 courses). The à la carte menu allows diners to build their own path, choosing dishes like the amberjack and sea bass saltimbocca with sea lettuce, fried scorpion fish all’arrabbiata, the notable "zuppiera" of Adriatic pasta and fish, the catch of the day with green apricot sauce and sorrel, or the spit-roasted pigeon with cuttlefish lard. Each dish is beautifully presented, a feast for both the eyes and palate, set in an environment full of colour and atmosphere.

Flavours are crisp, refined, of high calibre, and with an even deeper vision. That of the horizon, indeed.

Gabicce Mare (PU) – via dell'Orizzonte, 2 – 0541 962295 - www.dallagioconda.it

I Tenerumi at Therasia Resort

A gastronomic experience in a setting of rare beauty, which can quite comfortably be described as metaphysical—this is, in brief, the summary of one of the best dinners of recent years. To call the location spectacular would probably be an understatement; you dine in a lush garden quite literally suspended over the sea, amid cascades of climbing plants, bushes of aromatic herbs, and succulent plants. The view is simply incredible, and it’s recommended to arrive at sunset, perhaps for an aperitif, when the sun dips into the sea, turning the sky and the sea stacks red as the summits of the extinct volcanoes on the other six islands begin to glow.

In this setting, Davide Guidara reigns. Born in 1994, he is a young chef with undeniable talent, one who burns with a passion for his craft, a passion that becomes rigor when applied to a cuisine he calls "vegetal." It is more than vegetarian, almost entirely vegan. He started young, at fifteen, without abandoning his studies, and over the years worked at Don Alfonso, Il Mosaico, and abroad with Michel Bras and then at Noma. After several experiences in Sicily and numerous accolades, he arrived at Therasia in 2022.

In our last visit, we noted around twenty courses from the €200 tasting menu, complete with cocktails, kombucha, herbal teas, and infusions expertly paired with each dish—all non-alcoholic except the final one. In a Rossini-like crescendo, over the course of just under two hours, marked by a service of rare efficiency, a series of dishes—never banal, far from repetitive, and above all delicious—arrived at the table, accompanied by equally delightful homemade breadsticks and breads. Everything changes constantly on this journey: cold or steamed preparations, fermentations, raw dishes, and preserves alternate in a kaleidoscopic succession of sensations that engage all five senses. Among the most vivid memories are the datterino tomato in three masterful preparations, grilled char, cucumber and almonds, onion and capers, and the imaginative tartlet—one of the few non-vegan dishes.

Vulcano (ME) – località Vulcanello – 090 9852555 - www.therasiaresort.it