The Sicilian wine tastings for the Vini d’Italia 2025 guide by Gambero Rosso highlighted the main challenge of the 2023 vintage: a significant downy mildew outbreak affecting Sicilian vineyards. This, coupled to a much lesser extent with climate change, led to a production drop compared to 2022—around 40% on average, with some areas experiencing even greater declines. Some wineries were forced to produce certain labels in very limited quantities, or not at all. Despite these difficulties, many wines achieved excellent results during our tastings, earning Tre Bicchieri (Three Glasses) or reaching the finals with Due Bicchieri Rossi (Two Red Glasses).
Grillo: a wine of many identities
While the “Sicilian Renaissance” of a few years ago was driven by red wines, recent years have seen a grand comeback for whites made from indigenous grapes—complex, deep, and capable of ageing over time. Among these is Grillo, undoubtedly a wine of many identities. It emerged in the late 19th century as a cross between the indigenous Catarratto and Zibibbo (or Muscat of Alexandria) varieties, an innovation by agronomist and ampelographer Baron Antonio Mendola. Long a foundation of fortified wines (and still a mainstay of the DOC Marsala), it later proved capable of producing excellent dry wines that simultaneously showcase acidity and a rich sweetness of fruit.
Grillo is indeed a versatile grape, adapting well to the climate, soils, vineyard management, and winery practices. Perhaps these characteristics explain its growing success, elevating it to the most intriguing white wine in today’s Sicilian wine landscape.
Nielsen data on the Grillo phenomenon
At a dedicated conference during Vinitaly last April, the Consorzio di Tutela Vini DOC Sicilia hailed Grillo as a success story, growing even in international markets. Nielsen data showed that Grillo consumption has returned to pre-2019 levels. According to the Consortium, led by Antonio Rallo, this signals resilience in the market, followed by genuine growth spikes. In 2023, Grillo recorded increases of 20% in volume, 19% in value, and 15% in packaged quantities compared to the previous year. “These are figures,” the Consortium emphasised, “never before achieved.”
"A growth, both in volumes and values, that reaffirms Grillo's role as an ambassador for the region and Sicilia DOC wines worldwide," highlighted President Rallo, noting that among the more than 70 indigenous varieties of the region, Grillo stands out as a symbol of the increasing prestige of Sicilia DOC wines. Significant figures also emerge from data collected in the German market: considering only sales in the organised retail sector, Sicilia DOC sold nearly 3 million bottles of Grillo in 2023.
The best Grillos: Tre Bicchieri and Due Bicchieri Rossi
Here are the Grillos we enjoyed the most during the tastings for the Vini d’Italia 2025 guide by Gambero Rosso.
Family and Friends Grillo 2023 – Feudo Maccari. An excellent wine, fragrant with notes of peach, grapefruit, and orange blossom. Its vibrant citrus aromas are complemented by a slightly saline palate with a refreshingly crisp acidic progression.
Twenty-five years have passed since Tuscan entrepreneur Antonio Moretti Cuseri purchased Feudo Maccari—265 hectares of olive groves, orchards, and 60 hectares of vineyards, primarily Nero d’Avola and Grillo grown in the traditional bush-trained alberello style. Antonio was among the first to recognise Grillo’s potential to produce outstanding Sicilian white wines capable of ageing, and today’s results affirm his vision brilliantly.
Sicilia Acini di Grillo 2023 – Possente. A lightly macerated white wine, enveloped in notes of peach, citrus, aromatic herbs, and Mediterranean scrub. It boasts great freshness and personality on the palate, with a subtle and refined tannic note that adds dynamism to the tasting experience.
Founded in 1982, the Possente winery is managed by siblings Antonio (also the winemaker), Maria, and Stefania. Some of their vineyards and the winery are located in Salaparuta at 250–400 metres above sea level in hilly, well-ventilated terrain, while their new Catarratto plantings are in Alcamo. Their philosophy is simple: care for and respect the land, translating its essence into wines of great authenticity.
Sicilia Grillo Carolina Marengo Kisa 2023 – Feudi del Pisciotto. An excellent showing for this wine, which reached our finals. Produced by Feudi del Pisciotto, a Sicilian winery under the Domini di Castellare group, it delivered elegant and terroir-driven wines for this year’s tastings.
Sicilia Grillo Cavallo delle Fate 2023 – Tasca d’Almerita
Impressive quality from all the wines submitted by the five Tasca estates across Sicily. Among these was Cavallo delle Fate 2023, which reached our finals.
Since the passing of Count Lucio, governance of the historic Tasca d’Almerita winery is firmly in the hands of his son Alberto, who had already been managing director for years. Recently, Alberto has made substantial investments in environmental sustainability, making their estates—from Etna to Mozia, Regaleali to Salina—among the greenest in Italy.
Sicilia Grillo Parlante 2023 – Fondo Antico
A wine of great finesse, offering nuances of rose, lavender, and iris. Juicy and lively on the palate, it finishes with a delightful hint of fresh almond.
Sicilia Grillo Pharis 2022 – Le Casematte
A very enjoyable wine combining notes of yellow fruit, flowers, citrus, and iodine. Delicate salinity enhances its appeal on the palate.
In just a couple of decades, Le Casematte, founded by Gianfranco Sabatino and Andrea Barzagli, has become a benchmark for the small yet prestigious DOC Faro. Through new plantings and acquisitions, the partners have nearly doubled their vineyard area, consistently raising quality as our tastings confirm.
Sicilia Grillo Vigna di Mandranova 2023 – Alessandro di Camporeale
Intense and well-defined aromas of tropical fruits and citrus flowers. The palate is juicy and elegant.
The Alessandro di Camporeale winery was established in 2000 by siblings Natale, Nino, and Rosolino to vinify the family’s grapes, cultivated for over a century. The fourth generation—cousins Anna, Benedetto “Il Rosso” (the enologist), and Benedetto “Il Nero” (marketing)—now manages the organically farmed vineyards, which produce Catarratto, Grillo, Nero d’Avola, Syrah, and Sauvignon Blanc.
Ziller 47 – Tenuta Gorghi Tondi
Maximum accolades for this table wine (100% Grillo) with its brilliant amber colour, complex oxidative aromas, and hints of sumac and dried flowers. The palate is rich, fresh, and elegant.
Sisters Annamaria and Clara Sala are the driving force behind Tenuta Gorghi Tondi, situated near the sea and two lakes that are part of a WWF nature reserve. Their family’s legacy dates back to the late 19th century, and their commitment to enhancing the land continues the work of the late Michele Sala. Through continuous research and experimentation, supported by the skilled hand of enologist Tonino Guzzo, they craft wines of distinction.
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