What do Lambrusco and Champagne have in common?We posed this question in the December 2024 issue of Gambero Rosso. Geographically, culturally, and stylistically, they share nothing, yet both wines convey a sense of joy, celebration, and conviviality.
Once again this year, Lambrusco—the emblematic wine of Emilia—stood out in our regional tastings for the Vini d’Italia guide, thanks to the excellent results achieved. With a mix of confirmed favourites and new discoveries, many top-quality producers impressed us, particularly in a time when consumers tend to favour lighter, more drinkable wines over the heavier, full-bodied styles that were popular in the past.
© Francesco Vignali Photography
From the elegance of Sorbara —also available as a sparkling wine—to the bolder fruit notes of Grasparossa di Castelvetro and Salamino di Santa Croce, we have observed a continuous rise in quality, especially in hillside productions and historically suited areas in the provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia.
A diverse Territory
Within these regions, however, the landscape is anything but uniform. The flatlands that frame the Via Emilia gradually rise into hills and highlands as they extend towards the Apennines. This results in varying altitudes, soil compositions, and microclimates, all of which influence the types of Lambrusco that are cultivated.
This differentiation creates a stark contrast with generic Lambrusco Emilia, which is often a blend that includes less noble varieties, generally leading to lower quality and price points.
Lambrusco DOC: the main designations
As we have emphasised on previous occasions, referring to "The" Lambrusco as a single entity is a mistake— there are many Lambrusco wines, united under one name but highly diverse in variety.
The first thing that stands out in a comparative tasting is the variation in colour. If you think of Lambrusco as an opaque, dark wine, you have probably only encountered Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Salamino di Santa Croce, Lambrusco Reggiano, or a Grasparossa dei Colli di Scandiano e Canossa.
© Francesco Vignali Photography
But have you never come across a bright, clear ruby-red Lambrusco? That means you have yet to taste Lambrusco di Sorbara, which has a much paler hue than its darker counterparts. And when vinification techniques come into play, the colour spectrum broadens even further. These grapes can also be vinified as rosé, through very brief skin contact, adding pink to the range of deep purples and ruby reds.
So, Lambrusco does not exist as a single wine—it refers to an entire family of grape varieties. Beyond the ones mentioned, others include Barghi, Maestri, Marani, Montericco, Oliva, Viadanese, Benetti, Pellegrino, and Foglia Frastagliata.
Furthermore, Lambrusco can be produced using different methods. It can be frizzante (semi-sparkling) through autoclave refermentation, or spumante (fully sparkling), made using either the Charmat method or Metodo Classico—a technique in which many wineries are now investing. It can also be bottle-refermented without disgorgement, in the so-called "ancestral" method, which bridges modern production with the rustic traditions that gave birth to this globally renowned wine.
The new Tre Bicchieri entry and best value for money
With its Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Monovitigno 2023, Fattoria Moretto has earned its first-ever Tre Bicchieri award, while the Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro 7Bio from Settecani has been recognised for Best Value for Money in the Berebene 2025 guide by Gambero Rosso.
The best Lambrusco wines awarded Tre Bicchieri
Here are the top Lambrusco labels that have received the highest recognition in the Vini d’Italia guide by Gambero Rosso 2025
Lambrusco di Sorbara Brut M. Cl. Brutrosso 2023 - Cantina della Volta
Brutrosso '23 was the most striking wine presented by Cantina della Volta—a short Metodo Classico ageing that fully expresses the fruitiness of this variety, with a lively acidity supporting its overall richness.
In 2010, Christian Bellei, heir to an ancient winemaking family specialising in Lambrusco di Sorbara, founded this winery with the support of some friends, bringing extensive experience from his family’s business. His main objective was to craft Metodo Classico Lambrusco in the historic Cantina Bellei, located near the 18th-century Bomporto dock, whose boat symbol is now a trademark of the company.
Lambrusco di Sorbara Brut Omaggio a Gino Friedmann 2023 - Cantina di Carpi e Sorbara
This sparkling Lambrusco di Sorbara impressed us with its aromas of citrus and white flowers, pristine fruit, and elegance.
In 2012, the historic Cantine di Carpi (founded in 1903) and Sorbara (founded in 1923) merged, forming a cooperative with approximately 1,200 members and six production facilities, including one in Bassa Mantovana, Lombardy. Their Lambrusco range spans multiple types and vinification methods, including sparkling wines.
Lambrusco di Sorbara Leclisse 2023 - Alberto Paltrinieri
Leclisse '23 has become a benchmark for Sorbara: fragrant with wild berries, citrus, and aromatic herbs—elegant and harmonious.
Founded in 1926 by Achille Paltrinieri, a wine enthusiast and chemist, the winery was later strengthened by his son Gianfranco. Today, Alberto Paltrinieri and his wife Barbara continue the legacy, producing elegant Sorbara wines from the alluvial soils between the Secchia and Panaro rivers.
Lambrusco di Sorbara V. del Cristo 2023 - Cavicchioli
Vigna del Cristo '23 features citrus notes of pink grapefruit and clementine, with significant body on the palate.
Founded in 1928 by Umberto Cavicchioli in San Prospero, this winery has grown into a leading name in Lambrusco. Since 2011, it has been part of the GIV Group, though it remains under family management. Producing 10 million bottles annually, it offers a diverse range, with Sorbara standing out.
Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro 7Bio 2023 - Cantina Settecani
The 7Bio '23, winner of Best Value for Money 2025, is a textbook Grasparossa, bursting with red fruit, muscular yet fragrant—a wine to drink with pleasure.
Founded in 1923 in Settecani, a hamlet of Castelvetro di Modena, this cooperative now has 150 members. Its historic façade features seven dog faces, commemorating the 48 winemakers who united to create one of Emilia’s oldest wine cooperatives.
Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Monovitigno 2023 - Fattoria Moretto
Making its Tre Bicchieri debut, Grasparossa Monovitigno from Fattoria Moretto is a structured Lambrusco, with deep black fruit aromas and well-balanced tannins.
The winery's journey began in the 1960s with Antonio Altariva, evolving in 1991 when Fabio and Fausto shifted from bulk sales to bottling. Their organic approach and vineyard micro-zoning have led to exceptional results.
Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Vign. Cialdini 2023 - Cleto Chiarli Tenute Agricole
Vigneto Cialdini '23 is fragrant, fruity, and full-bodied, with a long-lasting sip.
Founded in 1860 by Cleto Chiarli, who pioneered bottled Lambrusco, the winery has been a reference point in the region ever since.
Reggiano Lambrusco Concerto 2023 - Medici Ermete
Concerto '23 showcases dark berry fruit notes.
The Medici family has been a cornerstone of Reggiano Lambrusco since the late 19th century, continually refining quality and character across generations.
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