The 8 Champagnes of the Côte de Bar that enthralled us

South of the Côte des Blancs, between the villages of Bar-sur-Aube and Bar-sur-Seine, the Côte de Bar is the newest macro-zone added to the Champagne appellation, also known as Aube. Pinot Noir is king here, covering 85% of the vineyards. The soil is calcareous and composed of marl but lacks the chalk that imparts minerality in other regions. The absence of chalk makes these wines less savoury but round, fresh, and intriguing in their best expressions.

The 8 best labels from the Côte de Bar

From this region, located at the far southern edge of the appellation, we have chosen 8 labels. These were selected during tastings in Modena, Rome, and trips to France by Giuseppe Carrus, Nicola Frasson, William Pregentelli, Pierpaolo Rastelli, Lorenzo Ruggeri, Marco Sabellico, and Marzio Taccetti.

97
Champagne Extra Brut Blanc d’Argile
Vouette & Sorbée
Buxières-sur-Arce
The base vintage tasted, indicated on the back label, is 2019. The aromas of this single-vineyard Chardonnay, produced in approximately 2,000 bottles, are enchanting. They range from ripe tones of spices and yellow flowers to inviting hints of yeast and patisserie. The palate is incredible for its tension and grip: bone-dry, razor-sharp, with superior depth and complexity. A spine-tingling finish.

94
Champagne Blanc de Noir Confidences 2009
Chassenay d’Arce
Ville-sur-Arce
Chassenay d’Arce is a Côte des Bar cooperative comprising 130 small winegrowers and 315 hectares. Confidences is its premium label, made with 92% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Blanc, and a touch of Chardonnay. The 2009 reflects classic precision: complexity, fruit, power, perfect dosage, and a balanced saline finish.

93
Champagne Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut ‘19
Rémi Leroy
Meurville
Rémi Leroy's wines, produced from Meurville soils rich in limestone in the Aube district, are increasingly distinctive. This 2019 vintage, made from pure Pinot Noir, spends 60 months on the lees and offers a complex bouquet of dried fruit, hints of raspberry, and biscuit, echoed in a substantial palate with a spicy, savoury finish.

93
Champagne Brut Nature Boreal
Clandestin
Landreville
“Instinct bourguignon, conviction champenoise,” reads the back label. The collaboration between Benoît Doussot and Bertrand Gautherot (Vouette & Sorbée) continues to thrive. This is a pure Pinot Noir, non-dosé, with striking notes of wild strawberries and lemon zest. Intense and rich on the nose, the palate is taut and profoundly savoury.

92
Champagne Rosé Brut Nature 2018
Élise Dechannes
Gyé-sur-Seine
The qualitative growth of this winery in the village of Les Riceys, also known for its tradition of still rosé wines, is noteworthy. This saignée rosé boasts a deep salmon colour and immediate aromas of cherry, carob, and blood orange. The palate is fleshy and dynamic, spiced with pepper and liquorice, and finishes with deep notes of cinchona and coffee. A gastronomic delight.

92
Champagne Extra Brut Témoignage ‘13
Jean Velut
Montgueux
On the small chalky hill of Montgueux, Chardonnay reigns supreme, and Benoît Velut, grandson of founder Jean, knows it well. From pure Chardonnay, he creates Témoignage 2013, aged 120 months on the lees with minimal dosage. Aromas of citrus peel and fresh hazelnuts lead to a savoury, layered palate with a deeply savoury finish.

91
Champagne Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut
Alexandre Bonnet
Les Riceys
This maison boasts 50 hectares in Les Riceys, in the southern quadrant of the Aube department in Côte des Bar. The Blanc de Noirs, made from pure Pinot Noir, ages 36 months on the lees and features precise red fruit aromas and a captivating chalky echo. The dynamic, vertical sip shows great character, with fruity accents on the finish.

91
Champagne Nature Fleur de l'Europe
Fleury
Courteron
Since 1989, Fleury has been operating biodynamically, producing instinctive wines full of temperament. Fleur is a Nature Champagne aged 72 months on the lees, made from 85% Pinot Noir with the remainder Chardonnay. It has a rich hue, with aromas blending mineral tones and red fruits. The palate is angular, with bold character and significant structure.