Although everything may seem to move slowly, the Italian wine world has undergone many transformations over the last thirty years, which have since consolidated into certainties. One of these is the qualitative growth of Oltrepò Pavese, a territory in Lombardy that we now consider among the classic regions capable of producing high-quality wines.
Oltrepò Pavese is located at the southernmost tip of the region, bordering Emilia-Romagna to the east, Piedmont to the west, and the mountainous areas of Liguria to the south. We have discussed this territory on several occasions in recent months, both for the Special Award given to the Sparkling Wine of the Year by the Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia 2025 guide and for significant changes in the Consortium’s statute and regulations: the Metodo Classico based on Pinot Noir is now called Classese.
When we talk about this area, the immediate association is with Pinot Noir: with over 3,000 hectares under vine, it ranks third worldwide among Pinot Noir-growing regions, behind only Burgundy and Champagne.
Riesling, the star of Oltrepò Pavese’s white wine production
However, focusing solely on Pinot Noir, the undisputed protagonist of the red wine scene, would be unfair to a wine-producing area that is actually quite diverse. Croatina, Barbera, Vespolina, and Uva Rara are essential pieces of the puzzle, contributing to highly territorial and traditional wines such as Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese and Buttafuoco, to name just a couple. If we shift to white wines, however, it is undeniable that Riesling plays the lead role.
When discussing this grape, it is important to specify which type we mean. In fact, there are two distinct types of Riesling: Riesling Renano (Rhenish Riesling) and Riesling Italico (Italian Riesling). As the name suggests, the former originates from the Rhine and Moselle valleys (though it is also cultivated in Austria and Alsace), while the latter is mainly found in Italy. Interestingly, despite sharing the same name, the two grapes have no genetic relationship.
The origins of Riesling Italico, moreover, are debated. Some believe it originated in France before spreading to Germany, where it was called foreign Riesling to avoid confusion with the Rhenish variety. Other scholars suggest it derives from Aminaea Gemella, a grape mentioned by the Roman agronomist Columella (1st century AD), which is also considered an ancestor of Greco—a variety with which Riesling Italico shares some genetic traits, though no direct lineage has been established.
The wines produced from these two grapes are also quite different. Generally, Rhenish Riesling yields white wines with good acidity and structure, remarkable persistence both in aroma and taste, and typical hydrocarbon notes that become more pronounced a few years after harvest. Riesling Italico, on the other hand, is more suited to fresh, fragrant, light, and easy-drinking wines.
The Best Quality-Price Rieslings of Oltrepò Pavese
Both types of Riesling are cultivated in Oltrepò Pavese, and the following selections represent the best examples available. These wines have been tasted and reviewed in the Berebene 2025 and Vini d’Italia 2025 guides by Gambero Rosso.
For quite some time, Isimbarda’s Riesling Renano has consistently been among the best in the Oltrepò Pavese area. In recent years, it has been joined by the LeFleur selection, which benefits from an additional year of bottle aging. The base 2023 version stands out for its remarkable floral character and elegance, with tertiary aromas still developing.
The winery, managed for many years by Daniele Zangelmi with the support of Mauro Suario and Marta Borrello, is located in one of the most scenic areas of Oltrepò, in the upper part of Santa Giuletta, where vineyards, cypress-lined avenues, and forests create a unique landscape. A historic land for Rhenish Riesling and Pinot Noir, these calcareous soils produce wines of great refinement and longevity.
photo by www.travaglino.com/it/
Even before Italy—and Oltrepò Pavese in particular—began to recognize the importance of the cru concept, Travaglino’s Campo della Fojada, with its calcareous clay soils, had always been acknowledged as an ideal site for Rhenish Riesling cultivation. These unique characteristics, once again evident in the 2023 vintage, lend the wine salinity, aromas of yellow fruits, citrus, hay, wildflowers, aromatic herbs, and a mineral vein that will evolve over time.
Since Cristina and Alessandro Comi, the new generation, took over this prestigious winery, the estate has been reborn. The medieval monastery, now converted into a hospitality venue, and the wines have regained their distinctive character thanks to highly suited soils and the expertise of Achille Bergami, supported by consultant Donato Lanati. Notable is the winery’s commitment to low environmental impact and its focus on Riesling and Pinot Noir.
Gabriele and Bruno Rebollini are serious producers: they presented only three wines, but all of high quality, starting with Renio '22, a splendid Riesling Superiore with floral and aromatic herb notes, long and deep on the palate. In the calcareous and chalky clay soils that cut through the central Oltrepò Pavese like a blade, Rhenish Riesling thrives, excelling in minerality—a key characteristic appreciated by enthusiasts. This is evident in Renio '22, where over a year of bottle aging has enhanced these mineral notes, still accompanied by youthful floral aromas.
We never tire of praising Paolo Verdi, a true winemaker who has achieved the prestigious Tre Bicchieri award both with a Metodo Classico (Vergomberra) and an age-worthy red (Cavariola). As if that weren’t enough, he also produces a Riesling like Vigna Costa '22, a textbook example of the variety: fruity and floral, full-bodied and balanced, with a vibrant backbone and mineral base that promise great longevity.
Now joined by his son Jacopo, Paolo Verdi is one of the most respected winemakers in Oltrepò Pavese. Tireless in his pursuit of innovations and refinements, he crafts a wide range of wines—still reds, sparkling reds, whites, and Metodo Classico—all with remarkable skill. Recent tastings of older vintages confirm the lasting value of his wines, and we eagerly await his Buttafuoco Storico, the latest addition, which promises to impress.
In just a few years, Aldo Dellavalle and trusted winemaker Marco Terzoni have established a highly respectable presence in Oltrepò Pavese, as demonstrated by their Riesling Superiore Lo Spavaldo '23. Made from 100% Rhenish Riesling, this young wine presents typical notes of wildflowers, chamomile, and tropical fruits, while its tertiary mineral aromas are still developing. On the palate, it is savory, flowing, and already delightful, with even greater potential for the future.
photo by www.cadelge.com/it/
On the white, calcareous, and chalky soils of Montalto Pavese, Rhenish Riesling finds its natural habitat to express itself at its best. The three siblings Carlo, Sara, and Stefania Padroggi are entrusted with carrying on the legacy of their father Enzo, one of the first in Oltrepò to believe in the potential of Riesling grown on these white soils. Champions of biodiversity, the winery adheres to the ViNO (Vineyards and Nature in Oltrepò) project. This 2022 version is characterized by notes of slightly overripe tropical fruit, with tertiary evolution slowly emerging in the form of a subtle minerality.
We always have to clarify: Fabbio is not a typo but the actual name of the owner, Fabbio Defilippi, assisted by his older brother Emilio. The name of the winery and the locality where it is based leave no doubt about the nature of the soil: a calcareous-chalky terroir where Rhenish Riesling thrives beautifully. This is evident in Riesling '23, which displays elegant floral aromas, a well-balanced palate, and a minerality that is just beginning to emerge.
Tonda Romana, baccalà fillets, and non-alcoholic wines: the new life of Rome’s oldest pizzeria
Turning point for Abruzzo wines: a vineyard map defines the territory’s suitability
The complete guide to contemporary Cafés in Turin
"I wake up every morning with the idea that I don't know how to cook." The chef who enchanted New York with a restaurant without a menu
From the Metropolitan Pavilion to the Top Italian Restaurant: Gambero Rosso showcases Italian wine in New York
