This year’s tastings for the Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia 2025 guide reaffirmed how identity and territorial uniqueness are increasingly important for Puglia’s wine production. This marks a shift from the past, when the region was more focused on grape varieties than on terroir.
Despite challenges like a struggling grape market and unsustainably low prices, the solution lies in prioritising quality over quantity and increasing bottled production rather than selling bulk wine or grapes. The growing recognition of quality-focused wines in the Vini d’Italia guide demonstrates this. Supporting local wineries through direct sales, agritourism, and stronger export strategies is also crucial for sustaining the prestige of Puglia’s vineyards.
The global recognition of Puglia’s wines owes much to Primitivo-based labels. Once producers understood the grape’s potential and began bottling under its name, the true richness of Puglia’s wine heritage began to shine.
Primitivo di Manduria: updates to the designation
The idea of transitioning from DOC to DOCG has been set aside, and the designation has instead introduced the use of the State mark for Primitivo di Manduria DOC and Riserva. There has also been a stronger emphasis on enhancing and promoting the Manduria PDO on an international scale, where approximately 70% of the over 25 million bottles produced are sold. Among the objectives of the Primitivo di Manduria Protection Consortium is the production of Primitivo di Manduria DOC Rosato, which will require a modification of the regulations.
Over time, the stylistic perspective of Primitivo has evolved. There has been a shift from very warm wines, often with pronounced residual sugar, to wines that, while maintaining a Mediterranean identity, preserve the integrity of the fruit. In the best examples, the sip is balanced with good acidity.
Among Puglia’s indigenous grape varieties, Primitivo is the one with the largest cultivated area. Its name is thought to derive from its early ripening. Although it is grown throughout much of the region, its primary territories are the limestone hills of Gioia del Colle and the provinces of Taranto and Brindisi, where it is used to produce Primitivo di Manduria DOC, which also includes a Riserva category.
A new entry among the Tre Bicchieri
With its Primitivo di Manduria Mirea 2022, the Masseria Borgo dei Trulli winery has, for the first time, received the Tre Bicchieri award. Masseria Borgo dei Trulli purchased vineyards in the Primitivo di Manduria and Salice Salentino areas less than ten years ago.
Primitivo di Manduria Wines Awarded Tre Bicchieri and Due Bicchieri Rossi
Below are the Primitivo di Manduria wines that received the highest recognition (Tre Bicchieri) and Due Bicchieri Rossi in the Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia 2025 guide.
Primitivo di Manduria Collezione Privata Cosimo Varvaglione Old Vines 2021 – Varvaglione 1921. This wine confirms its place as one of Puglia’s finest. The 2021 version presents aromas of black stone fruits and sweet spices, with hints of Mediterranean scrub, followed by a balanced palate, excellent body, and volume, with a long, lively, and pleasant finish. Now in its fourth generation, the family-run Varvaglione 1921 winery operates a large estate primarily planted with indigenous varieties, complemented by grapes supplied by associated growers under the guidance of the winery’s team. The aim is to express both varietal characteristics and territorial typicity.
Primitivo di Manduria Mirea 2022 – Masseria Borgo dei Trulli. Mirea ’22 stands out with notes of blackberry, black cherry, and forest undergrowth on the nose. On the palate, it is consistent, with excellent body and acidity, a long finish rich in fruit. Masseria Borgo dei Trulli operates three estates: Roselle, 12 hectares of sandy red soils planted mainly with Primitivo and Negroamaro surrounding the winery; Pasano, another 12 hectares on more clayey red soils hosting both white and red varieties; and 4 hectares in Salice Salentino.
Primitivo di Manduria Raccontami 2022 – Vespa Vignaioli per Passione
This wine features sweet spices and black plum on the nose, followed by a balanced, enveloping palate with excellent structure and a long, lively finish. The Vespa family’s winery, located at Masseria Li Reni, spans various plots in Manduria and Salice Salentino, primarily on clay and sandy-clay soils. Primitivo is the leading grape, complemented by Aleatico, Fiano, and Negroamaro. The wines are crafted with a modern approach, emphasising freshness and drinkability.
Primitivo di Manduria Sonetto Riserva 2019 – Produttori di Manduria
This Riserva remains at the top with its spicy notes, aromatic herbs, and black cherry. The palate is marked by black forest fruits, juicy character, and a savoury, highly enjoyable finish. Produttori di Manduria is a historic cooperative with 400 member growers. The vineyards, all within the Primitivo di Manduria DOC area, include a significant proportion of bush vines, with over half dedicated to Primitivo. Production is modern in style, showcasing the grape's best features and rich fruit.
Primitivo di Manduria Terra Bianca Giravolta 2020 – Felline
This wine is complex and layered, with aromas of ripe plum, undergrowth, and cloves, and a fresh, tense palate with a long, austere finish free from excessive sweetness. Gregory Perrucci’s Felline winery operates across various zones of the Primitivo di Manduria designation, producing a range of labels that highlight different soil types. The result is a set of wines combining modern freshness and elegance with traditional depth and volume.
Primitivo di Manduria Gloria 2022 – Vigneti Reale
Gloria ’22 delights with aromas of forest fruits, bay leaf, and damp earth. On the palate, it is well-structured, fresh, and displays impressive depth and length.
Primitivo di Manduria Li Cameli Riserva 2021 – Erminio Campa
Li Cameli offers aromas of black fruits and aromatic herbs, with a vibrant, fresh finish featuring blackberries and blueberries. Similarly, the Primitivo di Manduria Li Janni 2023 showcases pure fruit expression, delivering a long and enjoyable experience.
Primitivo di Manduria Li Filitti Riserva 2020 – Masca del Tacco
Li Filitti offers aromas of red fruits, cinchona, white pepper, and undergrowth. The palate is well-structured, with excellent persistence and length. Masca del Tacco, owned by Felice Mergè of Poggio Le Volpi, operates vineyards in Erchie, Veglie, and Torricella on diverse soils, growing traditional and international varieties. The wines are decidedly modern, focusing on fullness, volume, and aromatic precision.
Es 2022 – Gianfranco Fino
Once again, Es by Gianfranco Fino, outside the DOC designation, confirms its position as one of the best Primitivo wines available. The 2022 vintage offers intense aromas of black stone fruits, carob, black olives, and spices. On the palate, it is consistent, dense, slightly extractive yet rich in fruit, savoury, juicy, and with excellent length and structure. Celebrating its twentieth anniversary, the Gianfranco Fino winery, managed by Gianfranco Fino and Simona Natale, boasts Primitivo bush vines aged between 50 and 100 years, alongside small quantities of Negroamaro. The estate features calcareous clay red soils and, since 2021, a new winery and wine resort. These wines are both complex and bold, showcasing excellent density and freshness.
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