Ten years ago, then-MEP Ivan Jakovčić proposed a European resolution to introduce a new product category that would highlight the chemical, sensory, organoleptic, and health aspects of high-quality extra virgin olive oil. This is a goal that many Italian producers and consumers have long hoped for (also because they know exactly what “quality” really is and what it means to compete with products that bear the same name but are, in reality, barely fit for consumption). Gambero Rosso has embraced this vision since the very first edition of its Oli d’Italia guide in 2011.
Fifteen years of tastings, discussions, and commitment to enhancing the many qualities of Italian green gold. Now, Oli d’Italia 2025, produced in collaboration with Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena, is hitting the shelves and will be officially presented at Sol2Expo in Verona.
A lack of political support
As is often the case, the first to acknowledge the significance of an editorial project like this have been readers and producers. The political world, however, has been much slower to react—often incapable of taking the necessary actions to help evolve the olive oil sector and decisively improve the overall quality of national production. This shift should begin with concrete actions: sustainability initiatives, training for millers and olive growers, and the promotion of the unique varietal characteristics of each territory.
Defining "Made in Italy"
Now more than ever, the guide shows us that this process has already begun from the ground up, thanks to the increasing focus of businesses on oil quality. What is missing is the support and encouragement of effective policies (and policymakers)—ones capable of guiding and promoting a transformation in agricultural and business culture, which remains rooted in outdated models. Italy has the opportunity to take control of this process and lead the way.
A national regulatory framework should be established to define what constitutes “high-quality Italian extra virgin olive oil”—setting stricter standards than those currently allowed by the broad and lenient EU legislation, launching targeted communication campaigns, and ensuring continuous training for those working in the fields and mills. The producers featured in this guide have already been doing this for 15 years. Now, it’s time to raise the bar—not just as individual companies but as an entire country. That is, if we truly want to continue claiming (as is largely true) that Italian extra virgin olive oil is of superior quality.
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