When we talk about Oltrepò Pavese, we refer to the southernmost part of Lombardy, an area that borders Emilia Romagna to the east, Piedmont to the west, and the mountainous areas of Liguria to the south. As is well known, this territory is one of the cradles of Italian Pinot Nero; indeed, with its over 3000 hectares cultivated with the noblest of grape varieties, it is the third-largest area in the world dedicated to this grape variety, following Burgundy and Champagne. But how is all this Pinot Nero utilized? Obviously, it is used to produce red wine, a type that we find year after year showing constant qualitative growth, but above all, it is used to produce Metodo Classico sparkling wines, the true flagship of the region.
Like all Metodo Classico sparkling wines, those from Oltrepò Pavese undergo a double fermentation process to obtain the bubbles, the second of which occurs inside the same bottle that then reaches our table.
Creating a Metodo Classico sparkling wine is complex from many perspectives; above all, "locking up" the wines in the cellar for at least two years incurs costs. This is why these sparkling wines are generally more expensive than many still wines. However, in our tastings this year, we managed to find some labels that reach the shelf for less than 20 euros. We have reviewed them in the Gambero Rosso's Berebene 2024 guide, from which the following list is derived.
The Metodo Classico Sparkling Wines from Oltrepò Pavese with the Best Quality-Price Ratio
The Oltremondo Rosé M. Cl. by Sabaghina (100% Pinot Nero) is a Rosé with a beautiful structure, fragrant, spacious, and well-crafted, with a slightly almond-like finish that enhances its value. It's not easy to find a quality Metodo Classico that adheres to the price limits set by Berebene. In this case, we are pleased to introduce another reality from Oltrepò Pavese. Led by Claudio Battaini, Sabaghina owns around 70 hectares in the hilly areas, particularly suitable for Pinot Nero.
The Metodo Classico Pinot Nero Brut 2017 from Ca' del Gè is broad, deep, and luscious, showing clarity and personality thanks to a rich aromatic palette and surprising gustatory verticality. Mature scents of yeast and raspberries anticipate a fleshy and dynamic palate, dictated by a fine and persistent effervescence. The finish is long and juicy, a Pinot Nero of class. The deep passion for the land, together with a sober attitude and moral rigor, characterizes Carlo, Sara, and Stefania Padroggi, who carry on the precious legacy of their unforgettable father Enzo. The company demonstrates its sensitivity to biodiversity protection through participation in the ViNO project (Vineyards and Nature in Oltrepò). In the cellar, the goal has always been to maximize the expression of the fruit. This is confirmed by the wide range of wines offered by the company, ranging from Metodo Classico to Dolcetto.
The Caristoro Rosé from Fiamberti is a Metodo Classico made from Pinot Nero grapes without any final dosage, even though it is labeled as brut. The aromas are clear and fragrant, reminiscent of watermelon and peach. The palate is agile, rich, and well-structured, with a perlage that supports the drink very well until the juicy finish. Giulio Fiamberti, always assisted by his father Ambrogio, emerges as one of the protagonists in the Buttafuoco Storico denomination, characterized in recent times by growing attention, of which he is the only one to produce two different crus. The company boasts a rich viticultural heritage, recently expanded, including several areas of excellence in Canneto Pavese, where native red varieties such as Bonarda, Barbera, and Sangue di Giuda stand out. Additionally, the company owns vineyards at higher altitudes, towards Montalto Pavese and in the Scuropasso valley, dedicated to the cultivation of Pinot Nero used for the production of the Metodo Classico Caristoro, both in white and rosé versions.
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