by Giovanni Ciprian
Until a few years ago, San Cassiano could be considered the Dolomite capital of haute cuisine. This small and charming village in Alta Badia was in the spotlight for gourmet travelers thanks to the presence of award-winning restaurants and chefs such as Norbert Niederkofler at St. Hubertus (later closed for the total renovation—still ongoing—of the Aman Rosa Alpina hotel that hosted it) and Matteo Metullio and Davide De Pra at La Siriola (whose dazzling story ended with their departure).
These star chefs took their awards (including our Tre Forchette) and their talents elsewhere: Niederkofler moved to nearby Brunico with Atelier Moessmer, while Metullio and De Pra relocated to Trieste, where they opened their own Harry's Piccolo. Meanwhile, however, the fine dining scene in San Cassiano and its surroundings has remained fertile, with exciting new openings such as Cocun Cellar, the spectacular restaurant in the wine cellar of Ciasa Salares (the same hotel that previously housed La Siriola), and Porcino at Badia Hill, a venue offering an innovative mountain cuisine that breaks away from traditional norms.
Despite these changes, the mountain huts in the area have remained steady, with the gastronomic scene continuing to evolve through collaborations with renowned chefs, renewed interiors, and increasingly refined menus enriched with new recipes. Here is a selection of the best places to stop for a meal at high altitude during a day on the snow above San Cassiano.
Rifugio Scotoni
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Christian Agreiter, chef and owner of Rifugio Scotoni, working at the grill @Denis Costa
At exactly 2,040 meters above sea level, in a highly evocative alpine landscape, this mountain hut is a sought-after stop for both skiers descending from Lagazuoi along the spectacular Armentarola piste and for hikers. The Agreiter family, here since 1967, continues to provide warm hospitality and an excellent food and wine offering. The highlight is the grilled meat, cooked in front of guests by Christian in the rustic and welcoming main dining room. The long-standing collaboration with Dario Cecchini, Italy's most famous butcher, ensures succulent Florentine steaks and other delights such as Panzanese carpaccio (served with crispy fried peppers) or, among the latest additions, Iberian pork pluma. The most popular dish? Easy: the Scotoni mixed grill, a fail-proof choice.
The homemade pasta and desserts also deserve attention, starting with the excellent apple strudel with vanilla foam. The wine list is remarkable, featuring prestigious labels and a strong selection of natural and biodynamic wines.
Rifugio Scotoni – loc. Alpe Lagazuoi 2, San Cassiano - 0471 847330 – scotoni.it
Rifugio I Tablà
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Rifugio I Tablà @Freddy Planinschek with the Dolomites in the background
A hut with a distinctive shape, composed of two charming mountain houses connected by a wooden structure leading to the bar and restaurant. Situated at 2,024 meters on a panoramic plateau, it offers a wide view of the most famous peaks of Alta Badia, right in the heart of its vast ski area.
While focusing on traditional cuisine made with excellent local ingredients, this is one of the venues that has most embraced the "Skiing with Taste" event, which for 15 years has brought top international chefs to the valley each winter to create a signature dish, later passed down to the hut's cooks.
Thus, alongside homemade speck dumplings served in broth and grilled lamb or venison ribs, the menu features dishes like Simone Cantafio’s tortellini (from La Stüa de Michil in Corvara) filled with mountain potatoes, grey cheese, and wild herbs in a warm broth of toasted onion, speck, and yuzu kosho, or Cristina Bowerman’s organic barley risotto with cheese, pepper, honey, and lemon (from Glass Hostaria in Rome).
The wine cellar is well-curated, and the homemade desserts, from apple strudel to Sacher cake (including a white chocolate version), are truly delicious. The service, overseen for 19 years by owner Michaela Irsara, is courteous and attentive.
Rifugio I Tablà – loc. Stazione a monte Braia Fraida, La Villa - 333 2884417 - itabla.it
Club Moritzino
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At the top of Piz La Ila, surrounded by an impressive parade of Dolomite peaks, Club Moritzino stands out with its characteristic all-wooden walls and a veranda that houses the gourmet restaurant @Dolomiti Review
At 2,100 meters on the summit of Piz La Ila, Club Moritzino is a unique and dazzling world, famous both for its music events—hosting some of the Dolomites’ most renowned après-ski parties—and for its diverse gastronomic offering.
Founded in 1966 by Moritz Craffonara, who personally dug its foundations with a pickaxe and shovel, the venue evolved over the years, first with the support of his wife Silvana and later alongside his son Alex. From a classic hut serving soups and sausages, it became a destination for a refined and glamorous clientele, revolutionizing the concept of tourism and hospitality while inspiring many others.
The jewel of the club is its gourmet restaurant in the veranda, especially known for its seafood dishes, with fresh ingredients sourced daily from the markets in Chioggia and Milan. Chef Marco Spinelli, who has been here for 25 years, creates a cuisine blending Mediterranean flavors with mountain influences from local fruits and vegetables.
Examples include squid ink tagliolini with quince, Sicilian red prawns, and truffle on a scallop carpaccio or squid stuffed with prawns and zucchini on a chickpea cream. The prestigious wine cellar boasts over a thousand labels and impressive vintage depth, with pairings expertly curated by maitre Francesco Scollo, who has been leading the service for 23 years.
Club Moritzino – loc. Piz la Ila 154, La Villa - 0471 847403 – moritzino.it
Rifugio Lé
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Rifugio Lé, with architecture reminiscent of ancient barns @Freddy Planinschek
Completely renovated four years ago, this hut, managed by the Valentin family for over half a century, features wooden and stone facades reminiscent of old barns. The terrace offers breathtaking views of the majestic Sass dla Crusc, one of Alta Badia’s iconic peaks, while inside, guests can relax in warm, wooden-furnished rooms.
The new wine cellar—a passion project of Stefan, sommelier and owner—features a large stylized grape cluster on the wall, with twenty grapes representing Italy’s twenty regions, each containing top-selected labels from across the country.
The cuisine is rooted in the local territory, with a Ladin-inspired menu. Hearty dishes include grey cheese tortelloni from the Maso Chi Prà farm, pumpkin and goat cheese risotto, and mountain pine ravioli. The service is attentive and courteous, under the watchful eye of the owner.
Ütia Lé – via Lè 4, Badia - 347 2383927 - rifugiolee.it
Rifugio Bioch
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Rifugio Bioch with Mount Sassongher in the background
Perched in a strategic position along the Alta Badia ski slopes, this hut has been welcoming tourists from all over the world for two generations under the management of the Valentini family.
Classic traditional dishes such as homemade dumplings in broth, potato and puccia bread gnocchi with grey cheese cream and speck ragù, and grilled meats, including delicious Florentine steaks, have always been on the menu.
Here too, "Skiing with Taste" brings renowned chefs’ recipes: this winter, Max Alajmo’s buttery and smoky pasta with herbs and spices, served with an intense venison broth, takes center stage.
The extensive wine cellar boasts over 1,000 labels, 80% of which are from Alto Adige, earning the "Alto Adige Wine Culture" award in 2020 and 2024. By the glass, there are over thirty options, with suggested pairings for each dish on the menu.
Rifugio Bioch – loc. stazione d'arrivo seggiovia Bioch, La Villa - 329 5914008 - bioch.it