The best trattorias in Rome and Lazio according to Gambero Rosso

Excellent confirmations in the 2024 edition of the “Roma e il Meglio del Lazio” (Rome and the Best of Lazio) guide, with a rich repertoire of tables linked to the territory and tradition that demonstrates how much the cuisine of the roots is alive in the city and throughout the region.

The best trattorias in Rome and Lazio

Places that have made history in the capital, such as Armando al Pantheon: it opened its doors in the 1960s and is still run by the same Gargioli family, which includes great professionals in the dining room and kitchen. From the Pantheon to Campo de' Fiori, there is Grappolo D'oro, with Antonello Magliari and partners offering true Roman cuisine in the historic heart of the Eternal City.

Then there is Arcangelo Dandini, a poet of in the kitchen, who has transformed his Arcangelo restaurant into a garrison of Lazio food culture, while off the beaten track, in Monteverde, travellers arrive from all over the world to taste the specialities of Leonardo Vignoli, da Cesare. Obligatory sorties outside the city centre to enjoy the work of two great “country” establishments: to the north, in the Viterbo area Grotte Santo Stefano, at Casaletto, agri-restaurant of the Ceccobelli family; to the east, between the Lepini and Prenestini Mountains, at the court of Giovanni Milana, great chef of Sora Maria and Arcangelo, in Olevano Romano. Here are the details of the Tre Gamberi 2024.

L’Arcangelo Vino e Cucina

The gastronomic tradition of the Latium region has very ancient origins and chef Arcangelo Dandini knows something about it: entrepreneur, writer, son of a long generation of restaurateurs, with his strong, decisive and persevering personality, he was and continues to be one of the cornerstones of the Capitoline restaurant industry, and of a cuisine centred on recipes that are also forgotten and for much of his personal memory. The trattoria is his home, where one breathes a familiar air and stays in an environment that in recent years has become even more versatile and comfortable, where dishes that draw from the past and from the memories of the chef, who never stops in his path of study and research, are enjoyed on the table.

What makes the difference here are the raw materials, chosen from well-known suppliers, the respect for the ingredients used, the great culture of the territory and a flair that does not upset the original recipes but enriches them with the author's touch, gracefully adapting them to contemporary tastes according to the chef's personal vision. The rigatoni del Pastificio dei Campi alla carbonara are among the best examples of his style, as are the appetisers, true manifestos of Arcangelo's history, such as the Supplizio. Friendly, precise and casual service, attentive to detail, under the supervision of Stefania Sammartino. The wine list is well done, very articulate and well thought out, built around the dishes and with non-trivial labels.

L’Arcangelo Vino e Cucina – via G. G. Belli, 59 – Roma – larcangelo.com

Armando al Pantheon

There is something for those curious about ancient recipes, for intransigent purists, for healthy appetites and for those on holiday in the capital and who want the complete package: location, a bit of folklore, pampering and a memorable meal at a leisurely pace. And, surprise of surprises, there is also something for vegetarians and vegans. At the 'armandini', as friends affectionately call the Gargioli family - Claudio and Fabrizio, sons of the founder who gives the sign its name, and family - it is impossible not to feel good.
A project to welcome and promote Roman gastronomic culture (Claudio is not only a cook but also a writer and passionate scholar of forgotten recipes, which he often re-proposes in his own personal style, such as duck with plums in the manner of Apicius). Without ever taking himself too seriously but working behind the scenes like a war machine.

The menu is therefore broad and variable, and you have to come several times to get a complete overview. At the first the obligatory step is onto the repertoire staples: spaghetti alla gricia, rigatoni all'amatriciana, saltimbocca, trippa, coda alla vaccinara, pasta and chickpeas, broccoli and arzilla soup. As a second course, you can throw yourself on seasonal creations. Always order the meatballs, whether meat or spelt, where the scarpetta is obligatory. No problem with the drinks either: Fabiana, a talented sommelier, curates and narrates a wine list that goes well beyond the borders of Lazio. Book in advance.

Armando al Pantheon - salita de' Crescenzi, 31 – Roma –  armandoalpantheon.it

Da Cesare

There are a few certainties in the Capitoline restaurant scene, and one of them is called Da Cesare. Leonardo Vignoli and Maria Pia Cicconi's restaurant, which a few months ago also relaunched the historic and centrally located trattoria Settimio in Via del Pellegrino, is an authentic institution in the city. A neighbourhood trattoria, increasingly appreciated also by Italian and international critics for its solid cuisine, centred on well-tested recipes, long cooking times, and raw materials sourced from well-known producers. We start with the appetisers, above all the boiled meatball; the fried squid or the tasty aubergine croquettes with arrabbiata sauce are also delicious. Among the first courses, we opted for the tonnarello baccalà e pecorino, with generous and distinct flavours, while the cacio e pepe is always appreciated in both the fresh pasta and short pasta versions. Main courses include tasty breaded and deep-fried lamb chops and an exceptional Roman-style tripe, for the more daring. Excellent tiramisu by the glass or the ricotta and sour cherry tart. The wine list is full of surprises, artisans, gourmet wines, let Leonardo guide you for happy and affordable pairings for all budgets. There are also pizzas, low and fragrant, to pair with a round of fritti or bruschette al pomodoro. The outdoor area is ideal for an extended lunch break or a dinner of authentic Roman cuisine.

Da Cesare – via del Casaletto, 45 – Roma – trattoriadacesare.it

Hosteria Grappolo d’oro

The consolation of finding true, warm, passionate cuisine in this heavily touristed area would be priceless in itself. But it rises again, and by quite a lot, when you check out the menus and dishes at Grappolo d'Oro. Roman course (and not imposed: first and second courses to choose from three options, with three starters to precede, side dish and house dessert) at 34 euro. And dishes from 7 to 20, with an affable average of around 15. A cakewalk. Which, fortunately for the patrons (many and faithful) does not, for now, want to know about ending.

And so enjoy, for example, the super tripe with 'its' authentic sauce; the cacio e pepe consecrated by the use of the dutiful tonnarelli and verace; the misticanza ripassata, a tasty piece of a mini repertoire in which even the 'veggie' finds vegetables for their teeth; and the eventual 'dish of the day' from the small additional list that changes daily. A finale of rare and very Roman genuineness - but here the result of distilled wisdom, that of the talented pastry chef Stefania - with the mouth-watering maritozzo combined with cream, zabaglione and ricotta; the moving chocolate “salami”; the tart with organic jams. Quality wines, competently proposed (and pride for the best Lazio). Good service.

Grappolo d'Oro – piazza della Cancelleria, 80 – Roma – hosteriagrappolodoro.it

Sora Maria e Arcangelo

Among the certainties of Lazio cuisine is undoubtedly this restaurant in Olevano Romano, a small mediaeval village just an hour's drive from the capital. Giovanni Milana continues to confirm himself as the ace that he is when it comes to territorial gastronomy, even better when it comes to meat that he personally selects from small farms in the region.

No lunch or dinner at the Milana family is complete without indulging in 'Sora Maria' meat cannelloni, a dish that has been the trattoria's mainstay since the 1950s. The menu includes other classics such as the lamb trilogy, foie gras 'dei romani' and fettuccine con il ragù ciociaro di rigaglie di pollo. However, it is always worth reading the selection of off-paper dishes, which are always many, different and seasonal. So, weather permitting, try the fettuccine with double butter, ovoli and parmesan cheese, sweet and sour onion tarte tatin with chicken liver torcione and rabbit with scorzone truffle. The desserts are also good and mouth-watering, and while they leave room for the classics, such as tiramisu with Olevanese pastarella, they also offer original ideas. The wine list is extensive and constantly updated. Service is courteous and well-trained at a fast pace. Reservations are always recommended, especially at weekends.

Sora Maria e Arcangelo - via Roma, 42 - Olevano Romano (RM) – soramariaearcangelo.com

Agriristorante Il Casaletto

Marco Ceccobelli (chef and owner with his brother Stefano who looks after the agricultural side with breeding and charcuterie) puts more and more effort into experimenting with new dishes and choosing new producers with whom to collaborate. Most of the ingredients come from the 27 hectares of land surrounding the restaurant, but one of the restaurant's strengths is precisely its ability to team up on the territory.

The starting point is local tradition combined with memories of home cooking, which included, for example, the pig-slaughtering ritual when pigs were slaughtered and from which some preparations derive. On this is grafted the desire to evolve, which is most noticeable in appetisers such as the Zucca laccata (lacquered pumpkin) with a great bitter-sweet play on the relationship between the vegetable and the rhubarb of the same name, or as found in the elaboration of the grilled artichoke with a Caciofiore fondue or again in the warm pasta and beans (with Gradoli's Purgatory beans and marinated pork rinds) and also in the pumpkin flower in oil-cooked stuffed with ricotta cheese, courgettes and saffron whey. A taste of the desserts by Donata Baccelliere (who is also the exquisite hostess) is a must. The wine list is excellent with labels chosen with heart and passion on the territory, but there is also much more (at truly honest prices).

Agriristorante Il Casaletto – s.da Grottana, 9, fraz. Grotte Santo Stefano - Viterbo (VT) – ilcasaletto.it