A granita in the name of the father. This is how the ricotta, caramelized capers, and caper powder granita was created by the Pa.Pe.Rò. bar restaurant at Glicine in Rinella, a hamlet of Leni, one of the three municipalities on the island of Salina. It's hard to say if it's the first, let alone the only one – as we know, in Sicily, everything can be made with ricotta – but it has certainly been a success: for some years now, anyone visiting the Aeolian Islands makes a stop at this place, just a few meters from the beach of the fishermen's village, to order it. What makes it special is its deliciousness, storytelling, and setting.
A Granita with the taste of Salina
Let's start with the taste: this granita tastes of Salina island, sweet but with a balanced sweetness; the milky part is noticeable and it’s a cow's milk ricotta that arrives from the province of Ragusa several times a week. Savory but not salty, because that's the essence of the caper, even if candied. It’s hard not to think of the sea while chewing it. A mint leaf adds freshness – like a gust of maestrale wind on top of the glass – and a sprinkle of caper powder as a salty (savory!) finishing touch.
Perfect for breakfast accompanied by a brioche with the characteristic tuppo, it's also a delightful treat in the afternoon after a nice swim in Rinella Bay.
Paola, Peppe, and Rosanna: open even in Winter
The idea comes from Paola, Peppe, and Rosanna Donato, the three siblings who own Pa.Pe.Rò. They work from breakfast until after dinner in their establishment. It’s also one of the very few places on the island that remains open for most of the winter. The granita is a tribute to their father, a gelato maker who passed away prematurely, but also to Roberto Rossello, the creator of the Sapori Eoliani brand – the caramelized capers and caper powder are produced by their mother Maurizia – who also passed away before his time. It’s a story of families who, through their grief, have created something that, in contrast, brings joy.
The rest is done by the setting: small colorful houses, a few boats setting off in search of octopus and red mullet, transparent water over volcanic seabeds, and the white curtains of Pa.Pe.Rò. that look like unfurled sails.
Pa.Pe.Rò. – Isola di Salina (ME) - Leni - fraz. Rinella - via Strada Provinciale 16 – 090 9809161 – @salinapapero
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