The gastronomic transformation of one of the most beautiful galleries in Turin. The Costardi Bros arrive at the Subalpina

Once upon a time, there was the Galleria dell’Industria Subalpina, a masterpiece of Renaissance and Baroque elements (we talked about it here), with decorations by the Turin sculptor Edoardo Rubino. Opened in 1875, financed by the Banca Industriale Subalpina “auspice the Municipality," as stated on the plaques placed high at the entrance on Piazza Castello, it was designed by architect Pietro Carrera. At the time, it was nicknamed the Bazar for its wealth of shops and public spaces, including the Salone Romano, an entertainment venue where, in 1905, the Lumière cinema opened, later becoming the Cinema Romano, inaugurated on 10 June 1911 and still in operation today.

On the other hand, there has always been a connection between the gallery and cinema: scenes from the legendary The Italian Job—the film featuring the iconic Mini car chase that became a cult classic—were shot here, as well as Four Flies on Grey Velvet by Dario Argento and The Sunday Woman by Comencini.

A jewel-like gallery

Innovative and surprisingly modern even today, the Galleria Subalpina has experienced ups and downs over time. Recently, it had been acquired by American entrepreneurs, and there was talk of a radical transformation, with fashion brands and who knows what else (and some historic establishments, like the legendary bookstore L’Ebreo, where generations of students bought and sold second-hand books, had already left).

But now, it has returned to Turin hands and is becoming one of the most frequented spots in the city centre, with the evening opening of the restaurant at Caffè Baratti, joining Arcadia and Sfashion Café, the new location of Italy’s smallest literary café inside the Luxemburg bookshop, the charming boutique La Via del Tè, the antiquarian bookshop Gilibert, the Cinema Romano, and La Dispensa. And soon, a gelateria designed by Piero Chiambretti and a patisserie will also open.

La Dispensa transforms with the Costardi Bros

It is precisely La Dispensa that will soon (expected opening in spring) be at the heart of another trend-setting innovation. Currently, there is already a La Dispensa space next to the Cinema Romano—a striking venue by Compagnia dei Caraibi entirely dedicated to spirits, wines from around the world, beers, and a selection of food products: jars of sauces and preserved vegetables, pasta, biscuits, and vinegars.

Now, La Dispensa will move towards the gallery’s second entrance, on Piazza Carlo Alberto. A larger venue, right next to the new La Via del Tè shop, expanding with a cocktail bar bistro and a gourmet food section curated by the Costardi Bros, who already oversee the historic Caffè San Carlo and the restaurant Scatto inside the Gallerie d’Italia in Turin.

The idea is innovative, in the spirit of the "delis where you can eat" trend that is becoming increasingly popular. "It will be a space dedicated to lunch breaks," explains Christian Costardi, "where customers can choose from our deli counter either to take away or to enjoy in the upstairs dining room, which will have around forty seats, following a contemporary and informal philosophy. The project will continue into the evening with an aperitivo concept developed in collaboration with Compagnia dei Caraibi, featuring cocktails paired with ‘reinforced dishes’ inspired by traditional Piedmontese cuisine with modern touches. There will also be sharing platters and some heartier dishes for an ‘almost-dinner’ experience, as we’ll be open until 9 PM, and on weekends, even later."

All in an informal spirit, the chef clarifies, "but with a high level of quality, using carefully selected ingredients, as has always been our goal. The classics of Piedmontese cuisine will not be missing—Russian salad, vitello tonnato—and, of course, our now-iconic risotto tin (our entire story began in Vercelli, in the land of rice), inspired by Andy Warhol. My brother Manuel and I are thinking of creating a ‘Lattina Subalpina’ tied to the spirit of the gallery, which will also be our signature here—a surprise.”