The celebration of traditional Italian cuisine: it was 2011 when Gambero Rosso called upon one of the world’s greatest photographers, Oliviero Toscani, to capture the best Italian hosts chosen for the Ristoranti d’Italia 2012 guide. Behind the scenes on set was photographer Francesco Vignali, a long-time collaborator of Gambero Rosso, who stepped in as "assistant" to the great master and produced a beautiful black-and-white backstage series: images that reveal how an iconic photograph is born.
Toscani’s Motto: like family
"The slogan, the leitmotif of Oliviero Toscani’s approach to those portraits, was: 'Like family.' A message that later became the title of the supplement that was published alongside the magazine a few months later." Francesco Vignali recounts those hours spent with the master. "He told everyone to embrace, to stand close together, like family. That was precisely the idea: for Toscani, eating in a trattoria was like eating with family, the Italian family gathered around the table on Sundays."
2011: Francesco Vignali Photographs the Backstage of Oliviero Toscani at Gambero Rosso with Italy's Best Hosts
"The only thing about Italy I am proud of is its dining"
Toscani had no doubts: Italian cuisine—or rather, Italian dining—was the only thing about Italy that made him proud. He declared this when he photographed the new "Tre Gamberi" for the Ristoranti d’Italia 2014 guide, and again when he photographed the champions of Italian wine selected for the Vini d’Italia 2015 guide at the Città del Gusto.
"Ducasse? An Italian mum in disguise"
What is the identity of Italian cuisine? We asked the renowned photographer. "That of mums, of families. Traditional cuisine. In Italy, mums have spoiled their sons, but they have taught them how to cook. Ducasse, to mention a giant of French cuisine, I believe is an Italian mum in disguise!"
"The most beautiful Italian design? Pizza"
And what about experimental kitchens, creative chefs? We asked Toscani further. After all, we pointed out, there’s a notable rapprochement between tradition and creativity... He became serious and responded sincerely:
"Yes, of course. Beyond the jokes, there are significant elements being taken and projected into the future. But the imprint is the great wealth of our culinary and gastronomic tradition. I," the photographer explained, "live 25 kilometres from Volterra: well, in those 25 kilometres, there are at least 10 ways to make tripe. And they are all good!"
He moved toward the lens, then turned back and added:
"The most beautiful piece of Italian design? Pizza! For its shape, but also for its contents and functionality: it’s beautiful, perfect; it features ingredients of great flavour but humble origin; it’s accessible to everyone, on the street and on the plate. Splendid, ingenious!"
Here we present the backstage of the first portraits Oliviero Toscani shot for Gambero Rosso and the images of the award-winning hosts.
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