The harvest begins in Maremma: the heat accelerates the process (for some), but the quality is preserved

by Carlotta Sanviti

Following closely behind Puglia and Emilia-Romagna, the high temperatures have not spared the Tuscan Maremma either, where the grape harvest has officially begun. The intense heat that characterised July in the region has led to an early harvest, especially in the Capalbio area. While temperatures remained high, local winemakers quickly responded, utilising both their knowledge of the land and modern technologies to ensure that the 2024 vintage is not only good but potentially better than the previous year.

Starting in Capalbio

The first harvesting operations began in the early days of August, particularly for sparkling wine bases in the Capalbio area. Subsequently, early-ripening varieties such as Chardonnay, Viognier, and Merlot will follow. "We started earlier than usual, anticipating the harvest by at least twelve days compared to previous years," explains Francesco Mazzei, president of the Consorzio tutela vini della Maremma Toscana. Indeed, in the southern areas of the Grosseto province, the early harvest was more pronounced, while in the north, only a slight advance was noted compared to traditional forecasts.

The impact of climate on the vegetative cycle of the vines

July saw unusually high minimum temperatures and a reduced thermal excursion between day and night, affecting the vegetative cycle of the plants. Despite these conditions, the vines did not experience a vegetative halt; instead, the heat accelerated the veraison process, creating conditions for an early harvest. Mazzei reflects: "We hope that temperatures will stabilise and that the necessary thermal excursions will occur, which are essential for preserving the quality of the grapes, which currently appear excellent, but we will have a clearer picture in a month."

Meanwhile, Riccardo Simonelli, manager of the La Vigna sul Mare estate near Capalbio, is conducting the first harvest for grapes destined for their classic method wines and reports: "We started immediately this year, but the harvest is going well, the grapes are beautiful at the moment, we are proceeding quickly because the ripening is very fast and we need some grapes to retain acidity for sparkling wine production." Eva Baratta from Tenuta Monteti, another prominent estate in southern Maremma, states: "So far, we have not yet started; we are keeping our fingers crossed. We should start in about ten days, but around August 12, we will begin taking sugar and acidity samples." The low spring temperatures, water reserves, and continuous monitoring have managed to protect the grapes of this estate from an early harvest despite the scorching heat.

Despite concerns about the climate, the quantity of grapes harvested seems destined to surpass that of 2023. Luca Pollini, director of the Consorzio, states: "Thanks to the regularity of spring and early summer rains, winemakers have intervened promptly and effectively, leveraging last year's experience. This has allowed them to maintain control over the phytosanitary state of the vineyards, ensuring good grape health." The situation also appears under control from a drought perspective: despite the lack of significant precipitation in July, the water accumulated in previous months has prevented water stress in the plants.

The help of new technologies

The response of Maremma winemakers to this season's excessive heat has relied not only on experience and knowledge of the land but also on advanced technologies. In recent years, artificial intelligence and precision technology have become fundamental allies in agriculture, and viticulture is no exception. In Maremma, these tools have enabled producers to constantly monitor the state of the vineyards and intervene precisely to protect the clusters from scorching and excessive heat. As Pollini points out, "Agronomic precautions such as careful green pruning to shade the clusters have been crucial for preserving production quality."

Prospects for the 2024 vintage

Expectations for the 2024 harvest in Maremma are high. The signals gathered so far indicate a vintage that could surpass 2023 in both quality and quantity, thanks to the winemakers' efforts and the use of the latest cultivation techniques. As the harvest continues, the hope is that August will bring the ideal conditions to conclude a year of climatic challenges successfully. "In Maremma, wine is an integral part of our culture and identity, and every harvest is an opportunity to renew this bond with the land," concludes Mazzei. According to the second part of our pre-harvest survey conducted by the weekly Tre Bicchieri at the end of July, the entire Italian wine sector seems to have the necessary tools to face the risks of the 2024 vintage and to head, despite everything, towards a good production.