On the ice cream fridge rest a basket of porcini mushrooms and a crate of Champagne. A child moves them to grab a Cucciolone ice cream and takes a bite. Next to him, a man in an improbable burgundy swimsuit is picking at the head of a scorpion fish. His table is covered with half-full bottles of wine. It’s a classic summer day at Jolly Lido in Lavinio, Lido di Enea, a few kilometers from Anzio. Since 1964, it has been managed by the Criscuolo family. Maurizio Criscuolo is in the kitchen, offering a delightful seafood cuisine by the sea, a rarity these days.
His wife Annachiara coordinates the dining room and kitchen, while his father Beppe handles the accounts. Distinctive features? No farmed fish, garlic in its skin, generous use of good extra virgin olive oil, and very precise cooking times. Product, product, product. The obsessive knowledge of local catch makes the difference, from Anzio's shrimp and anchovies to mussels from Lake Paola. Old-school preparations start from the early hours: everything begins with a knife and a lot of good will.
What to eat at Jolly Lido
We highly recommend starting with the salt, oil, and pepper calamaretti, truly amazing, or alternatively, a fish bruschetta with lovage seeds, a sauté of real clams with cardamom, octopus and potatoes, or grilled anchovies served with cherry tomatoes, oregano, and onions. Simple, direct, and flavorful.
Don’t miss the spaghetti with mussels and pecorino, with perfectly cooked pasta, firm and meaty mussels, and a cooking broth that ties it all together. Orders mainly lean towards the Italian favorite: spaghetti with clams. We prefer tagliolini with shrimp over the seafood risotto, or variations with anchovies and pecorino, otherwise seasoned with the day’s filleted fish and cherry tomatoes. The portions of the first courses are generous, ideal for sharing.
The fritters
The frying is just as it should be: crispy, dry, with the right amount of breading. Anchovies, weever fish (surprisingly delicate in flavor), or a mixed fry to compose as you wish. Of course, prices rise significantly if you opt for John Dory, red sea bream, or dentex, also served in guazzetto. On our last visit, we also tasted a delicious centrelof salad and barely seared Ventotene red shrimp. At the end of the meal, amidst lively and cheeky children or very relaxed couples, we noticed Mario Draghi among the guests. We were told he is a regular at Jolly Lido.
Our advice? Treat yourself to a weekday visit to this blue platform. If you come on weekends, eat early to fully enjoy the slow pace of this lido. The area for children is spacious and well-maintained, the service is young, informal, and courteous. For good drinks, check out the two fridges near the cash register. You’ll find unexpected bottles offered at honest markups, from Lazio wineries to rare French sparkling wines.
Quality always has a price
Most patrons are regulars. The menu is rarely used, with first courses ranging from 18 to 25 euros, the catch of the day starting from eight euros per hectogram, depending on the variety. Instead of desserts (back to the ice cream fridge), we finish with intense porcini mushrooms, available mainly on weekends, sautéed in a pan. Just to finish off the wine.
It opens the first Saturday of Easter and continues until mid-September. The last day of work is always celebrated the same way: polenta with pork ribs or porcini mushrooms by the sea. In the evening, Maurizio is at the stove of the Criscuolo family's other restaurant in Anzio: Osteria Nuova. The protocol includes freshly made seafood salad, Catalan-style shellfish, and richly spiced fish stews. The wine list is a connoisseur's delight: the fridge with Lazio wines is virtuous, the selection of Champagne well-curated (Bereche, Prevost, Ulysse Collin, and the like), and the range of spirits bold in variety and vintage depth.
Jolly Lido - Lungomare Celeste Discesa 3, Lavinio - Lido di Enea (RM). Tel. 3496169154 - open for lunch only from April to September
Cover photo Federico Gioia
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