The hidden Trattoria in the Mountain of Bacoli that brings the sea to your plate

With the name "catagna," which colloquially referred to the underwater recesses where fish desperately hid from fishermen, no name could be more fitting for a restaurant. Visitors to Bacoli, especially in the Punta Pennata area, will immediately understand why.

A tiny signpost

Tucked into the mountain, La Catagna isn't easy to spot at first. You’ll need to traverse a bit of road, pass the entrance to Piscina Mirabilis—a grand drinking water cistern built by the ancient Romans—and navigate stairs and narrow paths. Perhaps, with a few inquiries, you’ll find yourself standing before the small sign above an unassuming door. A door, however, that opens into infinity, transporting guests into a picturesque setting where every element feels otherworldly, so stunningly beautiful and magical is the view.

The enchantment of Bacoli

After all, this is Bacoli, the land of the Sibyl of Cumae, a place steeped in mystery and awe-inspiring landscapes. Situated on a terrace that juts out over the sea, the azure waters blend seamlessly with the sky. The tranquil yet vibrant sounds of nature, combined with the aromas wafting from the kitchen, captivate the senses. Like a true refuge, you’ll instantly feel at ease here, enveloped by warmth and a sense of home as the Della Ragione family welcomes you. At this family-run seaside trattoria, hospitality and friendliness are a strong suit, though certainly not the only highlight.

From boat to table

The indoor dining area is small, seating about thirty guests. In pleasant weather—or even during autumn and spring for the more adventurous, with a plaid blanket provided—you can enjoy the panoramic terrace shaded by a pergola. In the kitchen, the culinary traditions of Signora Amalia and her son Crescenzo come together seamlessly, creating a menu rooted in traditional dishes prepared with modern techniques and creative plating. The menu is recited orally because the ingredients are sourced daily: the fish on the table is caught by Crescenzo himself. This ensures freshness and exceptional quality of the ingredients, along with expertise in handling them. For these reasons, the selection is relatively limited: the meal begins with a set appetiser, followed by a choice of two starters and two mains.

What’s on the Menu at La Catagna

The meal begins with an amuse-bouche featuring dishes like smoked anchovies and sea bass sushi. The delicate, unobtrusive preparations highlight the fish's freshness. The appetiser continues with a potato and codfish croquette, presented in a classic paper cone and served with lime mayonnaise. The light, crisp frying makes it hard to resist a second helping. Then comes a timeless classic, polipetto alla Luciana (octopus in tomato sauce), so good you’ll want to mop up every last drop with bread.

The starters uphold the restaurant’s philosophy of simplicity and flavour: candele alla genovese made with tuna and linguine with monkfish. Among the mains, a tender tuna with green pepper sauce stands out, its perfectly balanced flavours enhancing the fish’s quality.

The wine list is concise but well-curated, with a focus on local labels. The knowledgeable staff are adept at recommending the best pairings. Desserts, prepared by Signora Amalia’s grandson, include deconstructed millefeuille with cream and berries, babà, and tiramisù. As with the other courses, these sweets deliver freshness, taste, and elegance, ensuring a satisfying finale to the meal.

An experience that engages all the senses. Guests leave content, enriched by an experience that stimulates all the senses. The final bill is approximately €50 per person, excluding wine.

By Valentina Curcio, Master in Multimedia Communication of Gastronomy – Suor Orsola Benincasa University (Naples) in collaboration with Gambero Rosso Academy.