The hidden wine bar in a carpenter’s workshop in the heart of Cagliari that inspired the film Sideways

We are the ones who look at the wine list before the menu, we are the ones who, as soon as we sit at the table, feel our mouths watering at the thought of the bottle we’ll open. We are the ones who will never skip a glass of bubbles before starting dinner. But how many restaurants truly satisfy these cravings? They are the ones driven by a vision, an idea, a passion for this magical liquid world. And it doesn’t take encyclopaedic wine lists or labels from a fairytale; just a few right bottles are enough, and our desires will be fulfilled.

The thrill of entering Josto in Cagliari

Walking into Josto in Cagliari is a thrill. Slightly secluded, despite being in the heart of the historic centre, once you cross the threshold, you’ll find yourself in an old carpenter’s workshop. Yes, that’s right. That’s what it was before it became a restaurant. Scaffolding pipes run through the room, the old stone floor bears the marks of time, and the concrete walls have been left raw. Then there’s the kitchen in the background—open and in full view.

The passionate host and the glass you’d never expect

Pierluigi Fais is both chef and owner, but he keeps an eye on everyone who walks in and greets them personally. What would you like to drink? Yes, that’s how it goes, because Fais is a host first and a chef second—a bottle-opener before a patron. Sparkling wine, a cocktail, beer? Sure, but expectations are high here, so you’ll encounter things you’d never anticipate. For example? Sweet or oxidative wines served as a welcome pairing. The idea is to surprise you, to offer a glass you’d never have chosen on your own—neither now nor later.

But this isn’t just for the sake of novelty; everything here is tried and tested, and the results are guaranteed. Take the cacio, pepe, menta (a delightful dish crafted from a blend of different Sardinian pecorino cheeses and first-pressed olive oil). It’s paired with a young Sauternes. Starting like this, you can only wonder what comes next.

How about mullet from the Gulf of Oristano paired with a well-aged Vernaccia di Oristano, showcasing its oxidative qualities on the nose and palate—known locally in the Oristano area as murruai. And so it goes, with countless wines served by the glass and rare bottles unearthed from a wine list that, while not extensive, is thoughtful, deliberate, and brimming with passion.

Paul Giamatti and Thomas Haden Church in a scene from 'Sideways', a 2004 film

The aged Vernaccia di Oristano that inspired Sideways

And then there are the old vintages, so many, brought in through the evolution of Josto—from its first incarnation as Al Vicolo in Oristano, to its next chapter at Josto al Duomo (when it moved to the Hotel Duomo, also in Oristano), and finally to its current home in the Sardinian capital, in a carpenter’s workshop.

One day, many years ago, an old friend of Fais entered Josto. He wanted to drink an aged Vernaccia di Oristano, and knowing the owner’s passion for this type of wine, he asked what truly old bottles were in stock. “I have an ’88 Riserva from Josto Puddu, a winery that no longer exists,” said Pierluigi. “What are you waiting for? Open it,” his friend replied. “We need the right occasion,” the chef answered. “Opening a bottle like that is the occasion,” the friend declared.

The bottle was opened, and that uncorking—so it’s said—inspired the director of Sideways. It ended up paired with a magnificent mullet roe, and from that moment, a path for certain pairings and memorable drinking experiences was set…