The historic Roman trattoria loved by Roberto Benigni for its Cacio e Pepe

Feb 14 2025, 16:11
It was May 2000 when Roberto Benigni wrote a poem dedicated to the cacio e pepe of a famous trattoria in Testaccio

Roberto Benigni is the special guest of the fourth evening of duets at the 2025 Sanremo Festival. That the renowned Italian actor and director has a passion for poetic verses is well known—he has often recited sonnets on television, and his celebrated interpretation of The Divine Comedy was brought to the stage in Tutto Dante, as well as to television audiences. However, Benigni has another great passion: food. And there is one dish he is particularly fond of— cacio e pepe, especially the one served at the Roman trattoria Felice a Testaccio, to which he even dedicated a poem.

Roberto Benigni’s poem dedicated to Cacio e Pepe

Benigni composed his poem in May 2000, handwriting it in red ink on white paper. The trattoria framed it, and it remains proudly on display to this day. The poem reads:

"I saw the monument at Porta Pia,
That great bersagliere with his plume.
I told Rutelli to throw it away,
And put Felice there with his lamb instead.

Felice is not just a man—he is poetry,
A terror to all great chefs.
"Why do I stay in Rome?" I say to those who ask,
"Because there’s the Pope, the Colosseum, and Felice!"

Felice is an honest, good, and just man,
And when he dies (as we all must),
There will be a great commotion in Paradise.
Even the angels will lose their heads.

Christ will welcome him with delight,
Embrace him with his mouth watering,
And say to him, amidst the heavenly scene:
*"Come on, Felì, make us a cacio e pepe!"

(original version: Ho visto il monumento a Porta Pia, quel grande bersagliere col pennacchio.
Dissi a Rutelli di buttarlo via e mettere Felice con l'abbacchio.
Felice non è un uomo, è una poesia, di tutti i grandi cuochi lo spauracchio.
Perché sto a Roma? Dico a chi mi dice: "perché c'è il Papa, il Colosseo e Felice!"
Felice è un uomo onesto, bravo e giusto e quando morirà (a tutti tocca)
ci sarà in Paradiso un gran trambusto.
Pure gli angeli perderan la brocca.
Cristo lo accoglierà con grande gusto.
Lo abbraccerà con l'acquolina in bocca e gli dirà, in mezzo a quel presepe:
“E vai, Felì, facce 'na cacio e pepe!)

The Roman trattoria Felice a Testaccio

A historic Roman trattoria, Felice a Testaccio has been serving the capital since 1936. It was founded by Felice Trivelloni, who provided food to the locals of the Testaccio district, offering traditional Roman cuisine. After his passing in 2009, his son Franco took over the reins. The space has been modernised, but the recipes have remained unchanged, with careful attention to ingredients and preparation methods historically followed by Felice.

In 2017, the business expanded beyond Rome, opening a new location in Milan. In 2024, it was Turin’s turn, as the Trivelloni family decided to bring their Roman trattoria to the city. At Felice, the menu is dominated by the famous cacio e pepe, but there is also room for other traditional Roman dishes, such as amatriciana, carbonara, abbacchio al forno (roast lamb), saltimbocca, involtini al sugo (beef rolls in tomato sauce), polpettone al forno con purea di patate (baked meatloaf with mashed potatoes), and fettine panate (breaded cutlets). And of course, the tiramisù is not to be missed.

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