The incredible couple who taught Americans Italian cooking: the story of Marcella and Victor Hazan

For many in the United States, Marcella Hazan was the gateway to authentic Italian cuisine, far removed from the stereotypes of modified versions of Italian cooking found overseas. But the Italian author who brought her country’s flavours to the world’s tables would never have become the voice of Italian cooking in the U.S. without the vital support of her husband, Victor Hazan, who also emigrated from Romagna due to Mussolini’s racial laws. Like Julia Child did for French cuisine, Marcella Hazan transformed the perception of Italian cooking in the U.S., becoming a reference point for those who, through cooking, wanted to discover the authentic roots of the flavours of Italy. But without Victor, Marcella Hazan would never have become the author, teacher, and ambassador of Italian cuisine that we remember today.

Marcella Hazan’s Success

Born in Cesenatico in 1924, Marcella Polini grew up nourished by the simple and genuine recipes of Romagna’s culinary tradition, even though her love for cooking only manifested later in life. A graduate in biology and natural sciences from Ferrara with two doctorates, she met the man destined to change her life before she turned thirty. Victor’s family, of Jewish origin, was forced to leave Italy in 1939 due to the racial laws imposed by the fascist regime and settled in New York. They approved Victor’s trip to his native Cesena to deepen his understanding of his roots.

In 1952, during a visit to Cesenatico, Victor met Marcella. They began a relationship that Victor initially kept secret from his parents, as she was Catholic and they were observant Jews. Due to a family illness, Victor had to return to New York in 1955, but he did so with his new bride.

Upon arriving in New York, Marcella discovered that "Italian food" there was something else entirely: spaghetti served with what she described as "a kind of spicy ketchup" in restaurants with Chianti flasks wrapped in straw and red-checkered tablecloths. She didn’t speak a word of English and didn’t know how to cook— the cultural shock was overwhelming. Horrified by canned peas, hamburgers, and coffee she likened to dirty water from an unwashed coffee pot, Marcella began learning English in their tiny Queens apartment by watching television and following the Brooklyn Dodgers’ baseball games. She also started cooking, relying on her husband’s copy of Il Talismano della Felicità by Ada Boni. It was Victor who encouraged her to recall the culinary knowledge from her childhood in Italy, rather than adapting recipes to local tastes.

The Italian in New York becomes a culinary author

Their marriage was not only the bond between two people but also the beginning of a partnership that changed how Italian cuisine was perceived in the United States. The turning point came in the 1960s when Marcella began teaching cooking classes in her small home kitchen to small groups of enthusiasts. These classes became a bridge between two cultures: on one side, the rustic Romagna with its artisanal techniques; on the other, a growing curiosity for international cuisines.

Meeting Craig Claiborne, the famous New York Times critic, at one of her classes marked the start of her career as an author.

The Hazans’ passion for writing created a unique partnership: Victor translated Marcella’s thoughts and notes from Italian, while she became a prolific interpreter of authentic Italian cooking. This collaboration gave birth to their first book, The Classic Italian Cookbook, published in 1973. The book is a homage to traditional Italian recipes, explained with simplicity and precision.

In a 1974 interview, Marcella declared that the book was as much Victor’s as hers, not only because he translated it but also because she cooked to suit his palate. The rest is history: 40 years of continuous work and formal recognition followed. More books were published as Marcella wrote, taught, and opened cooking schools, including a famous one in Bologna. Victor left his advertising job at his father’s company to assist his wife in writing and to author his own book on Italian wine. They lived for several years in Venice before Marcella’s health problems brought them to Florida, partly to be near their son Giuliano’s family.

Photo Barbara Banks

The Hazan philosophy: simplicity and respect for ingredients

What made Marcella Hazan unique was her ability to translate the essence of Italian cooking for an international audience. She consistently emphasised the simplicity and quality of ingredients, underlining that the best dishes come from excellent raw materials and basic techniques.

Hazan popularised classic recipes from northern Italy, such as ossobuco, pork roast braised in milk, and ragù alla bolognese. However, her most enduring recipe is also the simplest: her famous tomato sauce made with just three ingredients — peeledtomatoes, butter, and onion—a manifesto of her philosophy.

Following her husband Victor’s advice, Marcella never tried to adapt Italian recipes to American tastes but rather educated her readers to appreciate their simplicity and authenticity. "There’s no need to complicate a dish," she often repeated. "You just need to respect the ingredients and tradition."

Marcella Hazan passed away in 2013 at the age of 89, but her culinary legacy lives on in the kitchens of millions of Americans. Her books, including Marcella's Italian Kitchen and Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking—listed by The New York Times among the 25 most influential cookbooks of the century—remain beloved cornerstones.

Her most tireless supporter, Victor, continued to preserve her memory and works during their 58 years of marriage, ensuring her legacy endured. At 94, his reduced eyesight has limited his writing, but his tributes have illuminated another truth: as long as Victor is around, the Marcella the world loves will never die.