The irresistible charm of oxidative wines: the diaries of a Master of Wine

by Gabriele Gorelli Master of Wine 

What a time it was when, as students in London, we attended the then-newly launched Big Fortified Tasting. The lived-in wood panelling of Church House and the average age of the attendees at this event dedicated to fortified wines evoked a world seemingly destined to vanish with that generation. Today, fortified wines, though significantly diminished in volume and distribution, still represent a great story to tell. Such is the case with Moscatel de Setúbal and, especially, its Roxo variety: almost a meeting point between Port and Madeira.

Moscatel Vineyards in Axarquía, Malaga Province: On the Subject of Heroic Viticulture

A surprise encounter with Moscatel Roxo

Moscatel Roxo is a variety that was on the verge of extinction just 20 years ago. Today, it has been revitalised for its ability to express fine and floral notes after fortification. The result is an oxidative, though not oxidised, wine with 18.5% alcohol, abundant residual sugar, incredibly fine tannins, and disarming drinkability. Certainly, there’s a touch of worn wood panelling in the experience. But classics are timeless for a reason.

Massimo Bottura in the Wine Cellar of Osteria Francescana

Meeting Bottura and Cheval Blanc

A world devoid of bacteria—sterile, as Rachel Carson writes in Silent Spring—is an unattainable overreach for humankind. Thankfully so, for without it, we would lack the miraculous botrytis that grants a second life to grapes. The place where terroir finds its ultimate expression through human touch is undoubtedly Château d’Yquem.

During the final revisions of Cinzia Benzi’s fabulous book (presented just weeks ago), I attended an intimate meeting of flavours and personalities. My palate still resonates with the experience. Pierre Lurton, at the helm of Château Cheval Blanc for over 20 years—where mould is battled—and the ever-daring, risk-taking chef Bottura: two giants, each a master of their field. What could emerge from such a meeting of titans—at the table, in the wine cellar of Osteria Francescana—if not an unrepeatable experience? Stories, pairings, and sips of liquid gold dating back as far as 130 years. The most elegant and delicious way to travel through time.