The Japanese chef who gave up the Michelin star opens a place in Milan where you dine barefoot and listen to Hi-Fi music

The fine dining model no longer excites. Or at least, it entertains less than before. Trattorias and classic restaurants are becoming dull. Wine bars with food are everywhere, and they all seem nearly identical. To spice things up and break the gastronomic monotony, some turn to international cuisine. But sometimes, even that’s not enough. Whether one agrees or not, this general sense of dissatisfaction seems to reflect the collective mood—and is echoed in what industry insiders are saying. In a city like Milan, always chasing the new, the latest form of ‘fun’ is now offered by listeningbars, immersive spaces that fully engage the guest. The format—already successful in Japan, where jazz kissa cafés first emerged in the 1950s—has now taken root here in Italy as well. After studying the concept in Tokyo, chef Yoji Tokuyoshi has decided to embrace it, capitalising on its immersive style. Milan is now awaiting the opening of his Hi-Fi bar and dining concept—an ambitious project named Mogo, opening to the public on 16 April.

Who is Yoji Tokuyoshi?

His parents wanted him to become a pharmacist, like the rest of the family. But the Japanese chef, originally from Tottori, chose a different path: the kitchen. In Japan, he trained and developed culinary discipline and precision. But his true professional maturity came under the guidance of Massimo Bottura at Osteria Francescana, where he rose to the role of sous-chef until 2014.

In Milan, he first made his mark with his restaurant Tokuyoshi, earning a Michelin star in 2015. He then launched Bentoteca, a venue with a unique backstory that began with a lunch box (bento in Japanese): a takeaway concept conceived during the pandemic to offer comforting Japanese dishes and remain “close” to people. It was during lockdown, however, that something shifted in Yoji—a change of perspective, a desire to focus on a more streamlined and accessible offering. Out of this reflection came his wine bar with kitchen—Bentoteca—which fully replaced the Michelin-starred venue. Because “even a katsusando can be fine dining […]”. A deliberate provocation from the chef to show that if the product is of excellent quality and every detail is meticulously curated, even a sandwich—a katsusando—can represent haute cuisine. So, the value of a dish isn’t defined by its price. In this vision, fine dining becomes almost a mindset: a way of thinking and preparing a dish.

Yoji Tokuyoshi

Having a clear identity and being able to communicate one’s philosophy can sometimes be more powerful than even the allure of premium ingredients. After all, as he explains, “simple doesn’t mean cheap.” The former Bottura protégé takes issue with the way Italian culture has historically represented Japanese cuisine, influenced by the subculture of all-you-can-eat sushi and perceived as “cheap”—in the English sense of “low value.” And thus, distorted: “without culture (knowledge).” The same philosophy drives his other ventures: Alter Ego in Tokyo, Katsusanderia at Mercato Isola, and Pan’, his recently opened bakery. It will be no different for Mogo, the latest addition to the Kazoku group, the company owned by Tokuyoshi and Alice Yamada.

Mogo opens: the new listening bar that aims to entertain Milan

In Sotho—a language family rooted in South Africa and the rest of Southern Africa — Mogo means “together, union,” a meaning that reflects the venue’s spirit of community and gathering. A recreational space for sharing, centred around a “360-degree counter,” designed as a core point of exchange. The interior spans 400 sqm and features a modern, industrial design by Giorgia Longoni Studio, with a colour palette inspired by natural elements—terracotta and aquamarine (the floor colour)—and enriched with a blend of materials: carved wood, “lived-in” velvets, steel, and washi paper. The result is a space that feels fresh and bright during the day, cosy and atmospheric in the evening, thanks to shifting lighting that transforms the mood. The new venue in the Isola district also includes outdoor areas (both patio and terrace), along with a private room—a cosy environment where guests can relax barefoot.

An immersive experience

Mogo aims to be an internationally-minded club where people can gather to eat, drink, and listen to music. It’s a listening bar with a Hi-Fi sound system capable of hosting high-level audio performances, curated by Polifonic and BSR—the independent music label and creative arm of Burro Studio, one of the project’s partners.

“We wanted to build a place that responds to the current need for fun, in tune with the Milanese lifestyle, but still maintaining attention to food quality and detail. The menu will be accessible: 8–10 dishes expressing a fusion of Japanese, Italian, and French cuisines. Brunch and business lunches will also be offered, always at fair prices.” The culinary concept is described by Tokuyoshi himself, who handpicked every member of the kitchen team, entrusting its leadership to Simone Montanaro. Chef Yoji makes no compromises on ingredients either; suppliers will be the same as those for Bentoteca and Pan’. The same high standards apply to the beverage offering: signature cocktails like the Martini Black Saffron by Morris Maramaldi will raise the bar. Guests can enjoy dishes like chicken yakitori or courgette-flower okonomiyaki, paired with classic drinks or more playful cocktails, or choose from a selection of organic and natural wines. For connoisseurs, there will be a rich assortment of sake and Japanese whiskies. All under the careful supervision of bar manager Filippo Comparini. In short, from 16 April, an immersive experience awaits—blending fine dining, mixology, and live music. Milan’s nightlife is already buzzing with anticipation.