The magnificent world of Italian mostarda. Life, death, and  miracles of the "Lady" of New Year's Eve tables

by Giovanni Caldara

Leaving aside the prose, which takes us back to a bygone era, this letter could be written today: in it, the sender recommends sending mostarda "before Sancto Natale" so it can suitably accompany "the capons and game and boiled and spit-roasted veal," carving out a co-starring role for mostarda in year-end feasts that holds true as much now as it did then. However, this letter, written by the Ducal Chancellor on behalf of the gourmand Duke of Milan, Gian Galeazzo Visconti, dates back more than 600 years, precisely to 1397.

Between Verdi and Garibaldi

Reminding us of the history and fortunes of "Lady Mostarda" is the eponymous and fascinating book by Annalisa Andreini. It portrays a fruit-based delicacy (whole or cut into pieces, in slices large or thin) paired with mustard, sketching a tale rich with precious insights, including anecdotes about its famous admirers: from Giuseppe Garibaldi, who received it from Cremona in exchange for Caprera honey, to Maestro Giuseppe Verdi, who gifted it (along with nougat) to his friends worldwide during the Christmas season. The fortunes of mostarda, after all, reached their peak in the 19th century.

Numerous variations

As an excellent product of Italian gastronomy, mostarda is renowned in various towns across the Po Valley. The Cremonese and Mantuan versions are the most famous, followed by those from Bologna, Carpi, Vicenza, and Viadana, not to mention Voghera’s mostarda, and unique regional varieties found in Tuscany and southern Italy (particularly Sicily). Its standout feature is its ability to engage multiple senses during tasting: that sweetly spiced flavour, capable of almost burning in the mouth and tingling the nose, seems to hark back to the most probable etymology of the name, "mustum ardens." This refers to the origins of a culinary adventure, as writer Andreini explains, where "burning grape must, the juice of pressed grapes, was boiled and reduced by a quarter and made spicy with the addition of mustard seed flour."

A slow and patient process

Enrica Orsini, a producer of mostarda through her artisanal company Le Leccornie Doc in Pandino (CR), guides us through the production process: "Small quantities of fresh fruit and vegetables of Italian origin are hand-processed when perfectly ripe and chosen from trusted suppliers. The traditional process involves candying. After being washed and prepared, the fruit is placed in special basins, sugar is added, and it is left to rest. The secret lies entirely in this phase because it is essential to respect the timing of candying and the peculiarities of each fruit, which is candied separately. Its pungent flavour is achieved using a natural ingredient, mustard essential oil, which is dosed to respect the organoleptic properties of each fruit, creating that explosive sweet-spicy flavour."

A tradition in step with the times

Today’s challenge lies in keeping a glorious tradition alive while opening it to modern palates and preferences. For example, alongside classic fruits (pear, cherry, apple, fig, apricot, and peach), Enrica Orsini explores new possibilities with ginger, chinotto, bergamot, strawberries, blueberries, and mulberries. She also experiments with new pairings. While not abandoning traditional accompaniments like boiled meats, roasts, and cheeses, daring combinations are emerging. For instance, Fortunato Amatruda at his pizzeria Anima Romita in Crema (CR), awarded three slices in the Gambero Rosso Pizzeria Guide, creates an original pizza with oven-roasted rabbit loin, Salva Cremasco cheese cream, and mostarda (in this case, pumpkin mostarda). Because, in essence, the crux of the matter lies in a note made by an English tourist passing through Cremona in the 1950s: "Mostarda is an extremely refined dish, baroque, sweet, full-bodied, fiery, and spicy."