The restaurant in the Ligurian mill where Pesto is served as a dessert

by Patrizia Ferlini

Chef Jacopo Chieppa is attracting increasing attention with his ventures. In addition to Kilo, his pizzeria in Imperia where he applies his extensive research on doughs and ingredient pairings, he has carved out a prominent role in Ligurian gastronomy with Equilibrio. Housed in an old mill in Dolcedo – near the Prino stream in Imperia – Equilibrio is located in a building that once milled grains, pulses, and chestnuts and produced olive oil. All that remains of the past is the atmosphere that ties back to those times, providing a pleasant contrast to the newness that Chieppa and his team bring.

Inside the mill

The Dolcedo mill was once a gathering place for the local community, a place to grind the grains needed for the year's subsistence and press oil from the area’s exceptional raw materials. Chieppa was captivated by this structure’s charm and transformed it in line with his philosophy. Entering the Equilibrio restaurant, diners experience a dual sensation. Initially, it feels like stepping back to 1920, the year when the Lupi family refurbished the mill for exclusive use as an oil press. Only later do you sense the presence of the chef’s vision in every corner of the space. The minimalist yet functional decor harmonises perfectly with the existing features, supporting the primary goal of drawing full attention to the culinary experience, of which it is an integral part.

It is within this setting that Chieppa’s personality shines, expressing itself through interactive cuisine. For example, the dish “L’altra parte di me” ("The Other Side of Me") arrives with a pencil and paper for guessing the ingredients, shifting the focus entirely to what you’re eating, just as the tasting menu 'Ego' intends.

From McDonald's to gourmet cuisine

Chef Chieppa embraces his origins, proudly sharing his journey. He has experienced many things in life, moving from the world of rap music to the kitchen, where he started out in fast food and as a dishwasher. It’s a story of growth that eventually led him to work under Mauro Colagreco at Mirazur. Listening to Jacopo Chieppa describe his dream feels like delving into his mind, where chaos and balance coexist. “My menu is based on creativity. I’m a person who works in reverse. Some chefs love the product, make the dish, and create the idea they had in mind. I’m much more obsessed with the concept and the importance of the ceramics,” says Chieppa. He cites the dish “ombra del fungo” ("Shadow of the Mushroom") from the new autumn menu, which emerged from his desire to find the right approach to using a tree-trunk-shaped plate. This led him to create something mysterious, evoking the undergrowth, where he could hide different elements and showcase his inverted working method.

Ligurian traditions turn sweet

Dining at Equilibrio is a journey where Ligurian tradition is the thread running through the entire experience. Consider, for instance, chef Chieppa’s take on agnolotti del plin. “I imagined classic *plin* made by a Ligurian,” he explains. “I took humble fish like mackerel, salt cod, and anchovies and treated them as if they were the three traditional Piedmontese roasts, serving them 'al tovagliolo' (in a napkin).” And how to finish a meal if not with a surprising shift in flavours? The Ligurian classic pesto becomes a dessert in Pesto?: “A genius dessert that’s both savoury and sweet. I think of it as my signature dish.” This dessert features a basil cream with toasted pine nut ice cream, sprinkled with parmesan, and served with pine nut cream and a basil sponge. This dish is a pure expression of the exuberance, ambition, and dedication of a chef who considers cooking his obsession.

This philosophy also extends to 'Cappuccino alla ligure', another dessert consisting of coffee ice cream, goat’s milk foam, and sweet focaccia, evoking the quintessential Ligurian breakfast. Jacopo Chieppa is the fresh force that Imperia needed. He captivates with his stories and words, but even more so with his dishes, embodying his desire to surprise, conquer, and shine – because he’s aiming for that star.