The Slovenian chef passionate about foraging who cooks in a remote castle

by Chiara Buosi 

Nestled within the medieval walls of Tabor Castle, perched on the hill overlooking the town of Laško, lies Pavus—a restaurant with an enchanting atmosphere. Here, chef Marko Pavčnik, one of the key figures of Slovenia’s new culinary wave, offers a tasting menu where nature takes centre stage, reinterpreted with elegance and finesse.

photo: Rok Dezelak

Having grown up nearby, Pavčnik worked as an intern at Tabor during his studies, never imagining that twenty years later he and his wife would take over the castle and transform it into a gourmet destination.

Photo: Boris Vrabec

A foraging enthusiast, every dish he creates incorporates at least one wild herb. For him, the forest floor is an endless source of inspiration and resources. Wild hops, wood sorrel, and the lesser-known goutweed are just some of the herbs he gathers locally to create his vibrant green wild herb soup, a warm and revitalising dish. The ingredients vary with the seasons: in early spring, young beech and birch leaves are used, which become inedible after just two weeks of growth, making the timing of their harvest crucial.

In keeping with a zero-waste philosophy, Pavčnik also uses what are often considered weeds or scraps, such as carrot tops, sweet potato greens, or radish leaves, all sourced from a partner eco-sustainable farm. The chef’s skill lies in achieving a delicate balance, which varies not only with the ingredients but also with the weather, as it alters the flavours. In winter, the menu features a “forest soup” made with leaves and branches, enriched with mushrooms and chestnuts.

Chef Marko in the meadows surrounding the castle, foraging for herbs for the soup.
Photo: Boris Vrabec

His smoked venison tartare, paired with venison liver, acquires a sweet tanginess thanks to wild berries. An innovative starter pairs octopus with suckling pig on a warm zabaglione cream. His pursuit of umami is evident in the dish of mussels and chanterelles served on a beurre blanc sauce, accented with crispy white asparagus and spicy walnuts.

Smoked venison, venison liver, black walnuts, and raspberries.
Photo: Rok Dezelak

Local trout, lightly smoked, is elevated with a forest-inspired elderflower, lovage, and raspberry sauce. While the menu is ever-evolving, Marko’s dishes have a strong identity. His talent lies in softening the wildness of nature’s ingredients through his profound understanding of their changing characteristics.

The chef isn’t secretive about his recipes, except for his original ponzu sauce. His Slovenian take on the classic Japanese sauce uses local ingredients, such as smoked trout instead of katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) and a buckwheat-based sauce instead of soy sauce. It even incorporates beer—a recurring ingredient in his cuisine, which is fitting given that this region produces one of Slovenia’s most popular beers.

Smoked trout with beer ponzu sauce.
Photo: Rok Dezelak

Beer also flavours the chocolate ice cream that concludes the meal, one of Marko’s signature dishes that never leaves the menu. A delightful prelude to dessert is a white chocolate praline with a molten caramelised apple centre, a treat guests can recreate at home using the recipe Marko generously shares.

White chocolate apple praline. Photo: Lara Pavčnik

Pavus Restaurant

Tabor Castle, Laško
Address: Cesta na Svetino 23, 3270 Laško, Slovenia
Website: www.pavus.si/en
Reservation required

Where to Stay in Laško and Surrounding Areas

Rimske Roman Spa and Laško Thermal Park

At the Rimske spa, immerse yourself in the warm waters once favoured by the ancient Romans. You can transition seamlessly from indoor to outdoor pools, breathing in the crisp air while gazing at the snow-covered woods of the ancient forest surrounding the spa. Historical figures such as Princess Victoria of England and Prussia (Napoleon’s sister) and Emperor Ferdinand once bathed here. Today, you can soak in pools dedicated to them by booking a private bath. Between saunas and Turkish baths, peace can be found curled up with a book in the stone niches that surround the large thermal pool.

For family travellers, the larger Laško Thermal Park is ideal (as Rimske will be adults-only starting in 2025). Children can enjoy hours of fun on water slides under the glass dome, while those seeking relaxation can retreat to the circular whirlpools on the upper floor.

Don’t Miss

A short trip to the nearby Tehnopark in Celje is a must. This science park is a fascinating experience for children and teenagers, offering interactive experiments, illusions, virtual reality stations, and functioning robots provided by universities.

Technopark di Celije. Photo: Chiara Buosi

Header photo: Pavus Restaurant, Tabor Castle. Photo credit: Boris Vrabec.