The small (but Grand) Tuscan winery where you can sleep among vineyards and geese: a stay at Pacina

Aug 16 2024, 13:43
Journey to the fringes of history, immersed in the vineyards of a place named after the Etruscan god of wine: Pacina. Here, you'll find a charming winery and a wonderful family-run agriturismo

by Renato Del Piero

Imagine taking a trip through history. In front of you are the Sienese hills, vineyards, and slopes where, for centuries, people have diligently cultivated the land and pressed grapes, all while the spectacular Siena, a true immersion in the Middle Ages, discreetly lies hidden nearby. Above you, a 10th-century monastery, where kitchens and old stables now house beds, books, and sofas, and where the old farm equipment shed has been transformed into a delightful indoor pool, with water treated with salt, cool in summer and heated in winter. Geese roam freely in the adjacent courtyard.

A place of wine steeped in history

Imagine that the hostess, Mrs. Giovanna Tiezzi Borsa, is also steeped in history. She named her winery Pacina, after the ancient Etruscan name for the area, derived from Pachna, the Etruscan god of wine. From more recent history comes her family's story—her father was one of the twenty-five scientists whose studies brought forth what we now consider a standard concept, but which in the 1980s was revolutionary: “sustainable development.” He was also a key figure in the referendum that led to the abolition of nuclear power in Italy.

The Monastery and Winery of the Tiezzi Borsa Family

What you imagine can become reality if you decide to spend a few days at Pacina, in the accommodation that the Tiezzi Borsa family has set up. It’s separated from the main part of the ancient monastery—which is both home and the heart of a winemaking business known in the natural wine world for the quality of its bottles—by a courtyard where you might encounter a few geese. Discreetly, you might ask your host to let you peek into the historical part of the cellar, which remains as it was centuries ago. Along with the must-try wines—from the red Pacina to the white La Cerretina—stock up on organic olive oil, grains, and legumes, all part of the farm's production. After a swim in the pool and a few rounds of billiards, a visit to the nearby gem of Castelnuovo Berardenga is a must. Just a few minutes away, a stop at L’Asinello, a Michelin-starred restaurant with two forks in the Gambero Rosso guide, is the perfect way to end a dreamy stay.

Pacina – Castelnuovo Berardenga (SI) - Loc. Pacina 7 – 0577 352040 – pacina.it

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