If you think Trentino is solely dedicated to the production of great sparkling wines, you are completely mistaken. Year after year, alongside the undisputed excellence of Trentodoc, there have emerged still whites and reds that are increasingly interesting in character and territorial adherence. This achievement is thanks to the constant dedication of a group of winemakers, cellar masters, and entrepreneurs determined to focus on native grape varieties, as well as on grape varieties that have long been established here. One realizes the truth of this statement when tasting Teroldego, for example, offered in versions different from those of the historic Doc Rotaliano.
Regarding the origins of the grape variety's name, we rely on what is common knowledge. The term "teroldego" is derived through a linguistic and phonetic journey starting from "tiroler gold," the gold of Tyrol, which was the terminology used in the Vienna court to describe the wine that came from this province of the Habsburg Empire.
Teroldego is the most important native black grape variety in Trentino; it is mainly cultivated in Campo Rotaliano, an alluvial plain formed by the debris carried downstream by the Noce stream. The plant is very generous, and in the past, with different agronomic and productive visions, completely opposed to those of today, it yielded large quantities of grapes. Currently, with the shift to quality viticulture, well-managed Teroldego can produce great red wines, fragrant and juicy in their youth when vinified solely in steel; deep and fascinating in the more ambitious versions that interact with wood.
The best value for money Teroldego wines
Below is a list of Teroldego wines available in wine shops or online for less than 20 euro, reviewed in the Gambero Rosso's 2024 Berebene guide and produced by both large Trentino companies and small, emerging winemakers.
Foradori's 2022 Lezèr Teroldego, "Lezèr" meaning "lightweight," is a rosé that interprets the character and vigor of the grape variety that produces it, but introduces new sensations. It enters the palate juicy, vaguely spicy for a genuine pleasantness. Emilio Zierock, son of Elisabetta Foradori, the winemaker who brought the Rotaliano grape variety onto the international stage, aims (successfully) to make Teroldego a sincere oenological stimulus.
Dorigati's 2021 Teroldego Rotaliano, which we awarded for the best value for money in Trentino, presents a garnet color with fresh cherry aromas and a hint of balsamic spice. It is a captivating wine in its immediate drinkability. Paolo Dorigati interprets the Rotaliano grape variety in various ways, paying meticulous attention to the "base wine," for a proposal sustainable in every aspect. However, the wine has class and power that propel it towards further important tasting milestones, respecting the right resting times in cool cellars.
Martinelli's 2022 Teroldego Rotaliano offers the classic scent of blackberry and wild berries, invigorating on the palate, with a brisk, promising sip, ready to challenge aging for a few decades, with a silky and captivating texture. A historic agricultural company in the heart of Campo Rotaliano, led by young and enthusiastic winemakers: brothers Andrea and Giulio Martinelli. The two continue a family tradition that began in 1860, focusing mainly on Teroldego.
The 2021 Teroldego Rotaliano Castel Firmian presents fragrances of great complexity, deep ruby color, to enhance a range of organoleptic characters based on hints of violet, flowers, tamarind, with the typical "goudron" of Rotaliano, a pronounced flavor, velvety tannin, good alcoholic content, saline just right, and an austere powerful finish. Ready to challenge time if cared for in suitable cellars or cool home storage.
The 2021 Lealbere Teroldego Rotaliano offers gustatory power and fragrance, demonstrating how viticultural care and experience—50 years, that of brothers Andrea and Roberto Zeni, the progenitors of a dynasty of Teroldego-oriented winemakers—can confer the best for a very captivating wine.
De Vescovi Ulzbach's 2021 Teroldego Rotaliano Rosato is obtained using a "kretzer" vinification technique, a short maceration on the skins. The resulting wine is almost brilliant without compromising the character of the grapes, with good pulp, hints of tannin, but definitely an attractive rosé with a discerning personality. To be enjoyed while still young, although it doesn't disdain a few seasons of waiting. An untamed experimenter, Giulio de Vescovi, deals with numerous projects mainly related to Teroldego, although he doesn't overlook white grape varieties and especially small selections destined for thoughtful sparkling wine elaborations. Moreover, he even manages a microscopic vineyard on the slopes of Mount Etna, demonstrating that the boundaries of wine know no geographical limits. Only three versions of Teroldego proposed in our selections, all with distinctive, authoritative characters, as well as the right touch of extravagance.
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