The young producer from Montalcino making a counter-cultural Brunello

Tommaso Cortonesi is an under-40 producer who has carved out a place for himself in Montalcino by taking over his father Marco’s winery with determination. The winery is located in what is considered the future of Montalcino viticulture, on the northern slopes near Montosoli. From the 1970s, when wine was made only for home consumption, to today, things have changed radically—even for a small artisanal producer like him. “I’m a classicist,” he tells Gambero Rosso, “but we can’t be shortsighted: there’s a whole world out there moving, a buzz around beverages, whether it’s dealcoholized wines or low-alcohol wines. We, with our history and prestige, play in a league of our own, but we must remain vigilant. We must never stop intriguing and inspiring our audience, paying special attention to young people, who are the future.”

A family bond with Montalcino

There is a deep familial connection to the Podere La Mannella: Tommaso’s maternal grandfather, a skilled metal craftsman, was born there, while the property belonged to his paternal grandfather, who repaired guns in a local armoury. “I can’t imagine life without this place,” says Cortonesi. “The Sangiovese I produce here is a part of me; there’s a thread that tightly binds my whole life together. My grandparents grew up here first, then my parents, and finally me. This has allowed my generation to encapsulate the passion and desire for sharing from the first generation with the tireless work ethic of the second. Two generations that have guided us, teaching us above all to learn from mistakes.”

The new generations of Brunello

“The story of Brunello is a significant, resonant one,” he continues. “We young children of producers have savoured the beauty and charm of this international standing without being overly intimidated or pressured by it. We’ve accepted the challenge, we collaborate with one another, we’re curious and respectful of the past, but we’re ready for the future. The expression of the territory remains the shared key and access point for all. However, we must never take anything for granted: this must be our mantra. Even when there are achievements, we must continue to grow and aim higher. Stopping at the first success would be a mistake. Standing still is fatal, and proverbs always contain great truths.”

The Tre Bicchieri Award with the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino I Poggiarelli

The Tre Bicchieri was awarded to the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino I Poggiarelli, which matures in tonneaux for 24 months. This was a bold and counter-cultural choice by Tommaso, deviating from the traditional method that sees Brunello primarily maturing in large barrels. This decision, made in collaboration with oenologist Paolo Caciorgna, aimed to manage the wine’s significant tannic structure.

The Poggiarelli cru, sourced from a historic vineyard, is located southeast of Montalcino on rocky, galestro-rich soil. “Creating a single-vineyard wine,” he explains, “has always been a dream of mine. When my father gave me a free hand, I took action. Even our Rosso di Montalcino comes from a single vineyard—the youngest we have at La Mannella on the northern slope of Montalcino. Poggiarelli, however, was the first company wine to originate from a single vineyard and is also where my family began making wine in 1972. The vineyard, planted in 1990, is situated in the southeastern part of the estate on galestro-rich soils at an altitude of 470 metres above sea level.”

Markets and the future

The “glory” of Montalcino in the world has been well-known for decades. “There’s a lot of curiosity,” he concludes. “The interest lies in going beyond what everyone knows. People dig deeper, seeking the uniqueness, the artisanal and unrepeatable character of the wines, starting precisely from where they are born: the cru, the single vineyard. In this sense, it has been a more than winning choice.”

Cortonesi produces two Brunelli di Montalcino, La Mannella and the Poggiarelli cru, as well as the Riserva La Mannella. These are joined by the Rosso di Montalcino La Mannella and the IGT Leonus.