Unless you’ve attended wine courses, it’s generally thought that the only pairing for cheese is a good red, perhaps one that's aged. While this isn’t wrong in itself, it does require a deeper exploration: what kind of cheese is it? What red wine are we talking about? Tannic or more agile? Matured in wood or only aged in steel? But most importantly, is red wine the only possible pairing?
Wine and cheese: two worlds united by many facets
The answer is no. Just as there are many grape varieties, many wine regions with their own unique characteristics, and many different production philosophies, there is also a wide and varied palette when it comes to cheeses. In fact, the two worlds are so closely linked from both a historical and cultural perspective that we could even draw some analogies.
For instance, both products are influenced by their terroir and climate, which affects both the quality of the grapes and the milk. Both undergo a transformation process: fermentation in wine, curdling in cheese. Both also mature, age, and decay, albeit in different ways depending on the type. Finally, both wine and cheese are often produced using artisanal methods rooted in tradition, based on specific agricultural and farming techniques that often tie them closely to their regions of origin.
Wine and cheese: recommended pairings
Pairing a dish or product with wine is a process designed to balance out certain imbalances in the food, ensuring that one particular flavour doesn’t overwhelm the palate and cause taste fatigue. Some cheeses have such strong flavours that they can fatigue the palate after just a few bites. The wine, in this case, helps to break that chain and restore balance to the taste buds. However, the key is that it must be the right wine.
For a correct pairing, we need to consider the structure of the cheese’s taste, its intensity, and the concentration of its flavour, making sure these do not overpower the wine. That’s why an aged cheese like Parmigiano Reggiano should be paired with a wine of structure, one that has also been properly aged: think Barbaresco or Gattinara, but also a Chianti Classico Riserva. On the opposite end, a delicate and fresh cheese, such as stracchino or fiordilatte, would pair well with light, fragrant wines, like Friulian Pinot Bianco or Campanian Falanghina.
Barbaresco Rio Sordo '21 - Cascina delle Rose
Giovanna Rizzolio and Italo Sorbino, with their children Riccardo and Davide, continue the winery they started in 1974. The Barbaresco Rio Sordo '21 is fresh and fruity on the nose, with a citrusy and firm palate.
Gattinara V. Molsino '20 - Nervi Conterno
The Vigna Molsino '20 is austere. As soon as it's poured into the glass, you can smell dark fruit and tobacco. As it opens up, it reveals aromas of blackberries and quinine for a powerful yet elegant nose. The mouthfeel is full-bodied, with the richness of a great wine.
Chianti Cl. Ris. '21 - L'Erta di Radda
A refined aromatic profile for the Chianti Classico Riserva '21, with notes of pomegranate and blackberry, with hints of earth and light spices. The taste is reactive and savoury, with a lively finish.
Friuli Pinot Bianco '23 - Le Monde
The Pinot Bianco '23 is on par with the best vintages, floral and fruity with a smooth, fresh mouthfeel and impeccable balance.
Falanghina del Sannio Svelato '23 - Terre Stregate
The Svelato Falanghina is, as usual, the flagship wine of the company. It has a bouquet of clear herbaceous notes, with a slightly almondy, citrusy touch. The mouth is juicy, pulpy, and marked by refreshing acidity.
Other rules for the perfect pairing
In addition to structure, other characteristics must be considered: the prevalence of fatty, salty, or spicy elements. In these cases, the wine will help harmonise these sensations, so the right contrast is key. The fattiness will pair well with the acidity of whites or the tannins of reds; the saltiness will need a smoother wine; and the spiciness, which comes from the fermentation processes of the cheese or from moulds or blue veins, will go well with alcoholic wines and, why not, with sweet wines.
Some examples?
The creaminess of a robiola or crescenza would go well with whites that have a fresh, acidic streak, such as Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi or Gavi; while a taleggio or Castelmagno would pair perfectly with an Amarone or a not-too-aged Sangiovese (from Tuscany or Romagna).
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. Andrea Felici '23 - Andrea Felici
The wine shows its usual citrusy notes, with anise and stone aromas, and an incredibly smooth palate.
Gavi del Comune di Gavi Rovereto Minaia '23 - Nicola Bergaglio
With a refined aromatic profile, it recalls white flowers, lightly toasted almonds, and herbs. The mouth is rich and powerful, with a nice acidic verve that extends the juicy, savoury finish.
Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie '18 - Brigaldara
The mature, complex aromas lead to a sip full of vitality, with the power and alcohol typical of Amarone perfectly balanced by the acid-driven freshness.
Romagna Sangiovese Predappio Godenza '22 - Noelia Ricci
Rich and lively, with aromas of the underbrush, blackberry, blueberry; savoury and tasty on the palate, with a substantial mouthfeel where fruit and tannins work together, building towards a satisfying finish.
The slight acidity of buffalo mozzarella could be highlighted with a Fiano or a Greco, or it could be contrasted wonderfully with a Method Classico aged for several years and with a high dosage.
Fiano di Avellino '23 - Colli di Lapio
A white wine that combines the scent of loquat with an elegant citrus profile and flint nuances. The mouth is full, effective, with pleasant herbaceous sensations and a finish that brings back the mineral notes.
Greco di Tufo Oltre '22 - Bellaria
With beautiful smoky, saline, and mineral notes that are echoed on the palate in a clean, crisp, and tasty sip, full of tension.
Franciacorta Brut Satèn '19 - Contadi Castaldi
Appreciated for its complex and fragrant bouquet, with hazelnut, mountain butter, and a floral background. The mouth has a crisp freshness and a long finish.
The saltiness and spiciness of some aged blue cheeses will send your taste buds soaring when paired with the sweet and oxidative notes of a Marsala.
Marsala Rubino Sup. Tino n. 6 Ris. '14 - Francesco Intorcia Heritage
The Heritage project aims to offer wine lovers Marsala vintages that are still in the cellar.
In conclusion, listing all possible pairings between wine and cheese is almost impossible, but what really matters is conveying this message: in the world of pairings, beyond the usual practices, what counts is a good dose of curiosity and a willingness to experiment!
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