Timorasso: the red wine dressed as white from the Colli Tortonesi. Here are the 16 best labels

Nov 19 2024, 13:39
Timorasso, a native white grape variety from Piedmont, is a powerful and elegant grape that produces wines capable of evolving remarkably well over time. Here are the labels we liked the most

As we have already highlighted, in Piedmont the consumption of wine seems to have shifted toward whites, and it is therefore a golden moment for Timorasso. The grape is experiencing rapid and somewhat chaotic growth, although the Consortium is striving to remain highly vigilant. Fortunately, this interest in the region and the grape variety has not managed to tarnish its prestige or lower the selling prices of the grapes.

Timorasso: a grape rooted in its territory

Timorasso is one of those wines that can be described as a “red dressed as white,” an expression used to describe white wines with a certain structure. The Colli Tortonesi, where this grape variety is grown in Piedmont, borders Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, and Liguria. For optimal grape ripening, sunny exposures sheltered from the winds are ideal. The Timorasso grape has always demonstrated poor adaptability to climatic conditions outside its region of origin, confirming its strong territorial roots.

Precisely because of these characteristics, it was gradually abandoned over the centuries in favor of more productive and less delicate red grape varieties, such as Barbera and Croatina. Timorasso might have disappeared from the Italian ampelographic map if Walter Massa and other brave and tenacious winemakers in Tortona had not decided to bring it back to life, betting on its great potential.

Timorasso gives rise to a highly structured wine, with bright and golden hues, yellow floral and fruity aromas, and citrus hints. On the palate, it is often dense and savory in its most convincing expressions. Its marked acidity gives the wine freshness and great longevity.

A new entry among the Tre Bicchieri

The Vigneti Repetto winery in Sarezzano (AL) has obtained Tre Bicchieri this year for the first time, with a Timorasso: Origo '21. “Ancient Methods, Modern Technology” is the winery’s motto, meaning attention to traditions with the help of technology, respecting nature. Gian Paolo and Marina Repetto (pictured above) live this philosophy every day with positivity and kindness, in their daily work driven by passion, care, and professionalism. They manage 18 hectares of vineyards in the hilly area of Sarezzano, at the heart of the Colli Tortonesi territory, with excellent exposure and altitudes ranging from 240 to 320 meters.

The best Timorasso wines awarded Tre Bicchieri and Due Bicchieri Rossi

Here are the best Timorasso wines that obtained top recognition—*Tre Bicchieri* or *Due Bicchieri Rossi* for reaching the finals—in the Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia 2025 guide.

Luigi Boveri’s ability to express and live the territory is evident in the dynamism and quality of his production. The finesse and elegance of Filari di Timorasso '21 stand out, with delicate notes of tropical fruit, white peach, and minerals that amplify on the palate, offering continuity and richness. The Derthona '21 is also excellent, floral and harmonious, with a fresh and savory palate. Luigi Boveri began his journey in 1992, driven by tradition, passion, and courage, believing in the richness of the terroir and the strength of Timorasso. He chose to stay in the countryside, enhancing his vineyards in Costa Vescovado, supported by his wife Germana and now also by their children Francesco, Matteo, and Sara. The winery has five vineyards: Boccanera, Borgo, Casassa, Montesoro, and della Croatina, located on clay-limestone and marl-limestone soils.

Munta l’è Ruma '21, dedicated to an old farming proverb referring to vineyard workers, delivers a powerful and graceful push, with a complex aromatic profile including lime, grapefruit, mimosa, and broom. The palate is dense and substantial. Lacrime del Bricco '21 is profound and complex. For five generations, the Boveri family has been dedicated to agriculture and enhancing the territory. In 1988, Giacomo Boveri chose to continue family traditions, making a successful bet on Timorasso. The winery produces four labels, cultivating Barbera, Croatina, and Freisa in addition to Timorasso. The winery follows the “DTP Passione & Ragione - Sustainable Viticulture” protocol, with vineyards located in the municipalities of Costa Vescovato and Montegioco. The various expressions of *Derthona* reveal the nuances and potential of Timorasso.

Origo '21 has a bright straw-yellow-green hue, showing great harmony and finesse. The nose is complex, dominated by mineral notes, grapefruit juice, and lemon peel, with a subtle hint of hydrocarbons. On the palate, it is extraordinary in density and texture, with a fresh and structured balance and a very long finish. The winery focuses on traditions aided by modern technology, with great respect for nature.

The richness of Il Montino '22 and Santa Croce '22 is impressive, two standouts competing for excellence. Il Montino is richer and more refined, while Santa Croce is more powerful and juicy. Both offer a wide aromatic range: hydrocarbons and flint alternate with grapefruit and lime in Santa Croce, and cedar peel, chamomile, and aromatic herbs in Il Montino. The palate is concentrated, harmonious, and dynamic, with a fresh and vibrant finish. Elisa Semino, who runs the winery with her father Piercarlo and brother Lorenzo, believes deeply in Timorasso’s potential, producing other varietals like Barbera, Cortese, Dolcetto, and Croatina.

The Aemilia Scauri '20 reserve shows intriguing aromatic dynamism, with intense hydrocarbon notes and hints of cedar peel, grapefruit, Mediterranean herbs, and dried flowers. The palate is brilliant and vibrant, with extraordinary acidity and a long, flavorful finish. The Derthona '22 is equally noteworthy, offering fresh herbal notes and flint, with a juicy and fresh sip.

Claudio Mariotto’s various Timorasso expressions are all high-quality and remarkably distinct. The Derthona '22 is the most complete, blending freshness and depth with lime, grapefruit, and cedar notes, flint, and saffron. The Pitasso '22 is denser and more concentrated, mineral, and enveloping.

The Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Derthona Cantico 2020 by Giovanni Daglio captivates with its richness and dynamic flavour profile, offering notes of grapefruit and citron, complemented by hints of chalk, hydrocarbons, and tobacco. The palate is savoury and powerful, balanced by a delightful sapidity. This year, the winery Giovanni Daglio earns a full feature thanks to an outstanding lineup. Born into a family of farmers, Giovanni briefly pursued studies in Genoa but felt a strong calling towards agriculture. In the 1980s, he decided to return to his roots, focusing the family business exclusively on viticulture. The profound connection to his land is evident in his wines, crafted to faithfully express the characteristics of the grape and the terroir.

Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Derthona Cantico 2020 - Giovanni Daglio 

The nose of Derthona Maggiora 2021 is incredibly complex and intriguing, with aromas ranging from citrus and tobacco to mothballs. On the palate, the wine is structured, with a subtle, almost tannic vein, and an exceptionally long finish. Making its debut in the Guida Vignaioli, Battegazzore is a small family-run winery. In 2016, Bruno Battegazzore, together with his partner Elisa, decided to reopen the cellar where his grandfather had once produced wine.

Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Derthona Maggiora 2021 - Vignaioli di Battegazzore 

The Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Fausto 2022 opens with intense mineral notes, paired with hints of incense and cereals, which impart great complexity and finesse. The palate is rich and concentrated, yet avoids heaviness thanks to its vibrant acidity; the finish is seemingly endless. In a similar vein, the Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Francesca 2023 boasts a characteristic minerality on the nose, accompanied by aromas of citrus and tropical fruits. The palate is structured and marked by exuberant acidity, which time will likely tame, offering a wine with excellent ageing potential.

Francesco Bellocchio's sensitivity can be felt in his words about his grandfather, the legendary cyclist Fausto Coppi, as he began revitalising the estate in Castellania. The journey began in 2000, and over time, Francesco’s passion and love for the vineyard, the territory, and tradition have only deepened. The production is artisanal, with a focus on historical memory, new agronomic and genetic knowledge, and respect for the natural environment.

The Martin 2023 by Franco M. Martinetti is stunning, showcasing a refined gustatory-olfactory balance and tension on the palate, marking a decisive shift from the richness of previous vintages. For over fifty years, Franco has selected quality vineyards and growers, purchasing batches of grapes annually to vinify according to his own protocols. The results have often been extraordinary, as his innovative ideas and vision of wine have frequently been ahead of their time. Over the years, Franco has explored nearly every major area of Piedmont, from Asti to Alba, and from Gavi to Tortona.

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