Tonda Romana, baccalà fillets, and non-alcoholic wines: the new life of Rome’s oldest pizzeria

The baciata con mortazza (a focaccia filled with mortadella from Viterbo) has already become a must-try, followed closely by fried baccalà fillets, uovo in trippa, and tiramisù (also available with gluten-free biscuits). The new chapter of Pizzeria Ristoro Est!Est!Est!, the oldest in Rome, has just begun under the management of a young team—the same people who, a couple of years ago, took over and revitalised the historic Ristoro degli Angeli in Garbatella.

From wine shop to pizzeria: the history of Pizzeria Ristoro Est!Est!Est!

In 1888, Cavaliere Ambrogio Ricci, a wine enthusiast, opened a wine shop in what had been the capital of Italy for "only" 17 years. His aim was to sell his Est!Est!Est! wine from Montefiascone. Although he produced it in the Viterbo area, he wanted to expand his horizons by establishing a presence in Rome, unaware that Est!Est!Est! would become the oldest pizzeria in the Eternal City. The first turning point came with the introduction of electricity in 1900, a revolution that enabled the production of pizzas in an electric oven. A further upgrade followed with a major renovation in 1920, carried out by renowned master cabinetmakers of the time. The restaurant was transformed into an elegant and exclusive venue with boiserie, tables, chairs, and furnishings made of fine chestnut wood, cupboards and ornaments, large wall mirrors, the iconic icebox unit, and the ceramic beer tap that still stands proudly at the counter. Even Guglielmo Marconi attended the inauguration of this new phase.

The new chapter of Est!Est!Est!

The fame of the venue at Via Genova 32—located in the heart of the city, just steps from Termini, Via Nazionale, and the Palazzo delle Esposizioni—grew until it became a favourite haunt of actors and jet-set personalities. Their visits are still documented by the numerous autographs and dedications on the walls. The pizzeria has also served as a film set on multiple occasions. Today, with its environment unchanged (featuring two indoor dining rooms covering 120 square metres and an outdoor seating area for a total of approximately 120 guests) and its traditional menu intact, a new chapter begins under the management of a trio: two chefs and one entrepreneur. This same team made a name for themselves two years ago with the successful relaunch of Ristoro degli Angeli in Garbatella, a beloved traditional trattoria renowned beyond its neighbourhood. The new owners—Francesco Morrone, Domenico Falcone, and Marco Ceccarelli—have now taken the helm of this iconic and evocative venue, which feels timeless yet remains grounded in its regional identity, in line with their clear vision.

What you can eat and drink today at Rome’s oldest pizzeria

"After the success of Ristoro degli Angeli, we wanted to strengthen our presence in the area while also experimenting with a new format that would continue to centre around Roman culinary tradition," explains Marco Ceccarelli. He and his two partners were immediately captivated by the historic charm of the place. For them, the classic Roman repertoire remains the core focus, albeit with some differences from Ristoro degli Angeli.

"Here, we also serve authentic Roman pizza—thin and crispy, made with a 180g dough ball and left to rise for 48 hours—available in both classic versions and with some creative variations. Plus, we have fried specialities. Other than that, our approach remains the same: great attention to service, carefully selected suppliers, and warm hospitality as our trademark."

The menu boasts an array of Roman classics, from uovo in trippa alla romana to tonnarelli all’amatriciana, alongside gricia, cacio e pepe, carbonara, meatballs, saltimbocca alla romana with roast potatoes, and a selection of homemade desserts. Highlights include crema allo zabaione with caramel biscuits, whipped cream, and chocolate shavings, as well as tiramisù. There are also vegetarian and gluten-free options. All dishes are made using certified supply chains, from Coccia del Viterbese for cured meats to Schiorlin for artisanal fresh pasta, and bread from Roscioli.

And on the drinks front?

"In addition to the classic pizzeria selection, the historic beer tap with its ceramic column stands out, while bottled options include craft, gluten-free, and alcohol-free beers," Marco explains.

For wine enthusiasts, the list prioritises organic wineries, and soon, non-alcoholic labels will be introduced—ideal for those looking to avoid breathalyser worries. For everyone else, there is no shortage of grappa, amari, and spirits for cocktails and aperitifs.

Pizzeria Ristoro Est!Est!Est! - Roma- via Genova 32 - 06 4881107 - Instagram