Tre Bicchieri 2024, Campania's best wines awarded by Gambero Rosso

Campania's Tre Bicchieri 2024

Campania's Tre Bicchieri 2024

Opening with the trite phrase "Campania, lights and shadows" to describe the situation we found in the region this year would be deeply unjust. True, we did notice some imperfections, but it's equally undeniable that the bright spots truly shine. At the risk of being repetitive and stating the obvious, Irpinia remains the regional capital of wine production, where one can discover dazzling whites. The recent warm vintages of 2021 and 2022 have been interpreted commendably, with Fiano di Avellino pulling slightly ahead of Greco di Tufo, reaffirming and strengthening its status as a premier Italian white. The wines we tasted might be slightly more approachable than before, but where they may lack the longevity to withstand time, they compensate with charm and immediacy, qualities not to be overlooked. The new categories that boast the "Riserva" label, for both Fiano and Greco, we believe, can guarantee good aging potential, elegance, and flavor; our Tre Bicchieri list is just a starting point to urge you to seek and sample them.

Further bright spots emerge from territories increasingly in the limelight: while the Phlegraean Fields have solidified their place in the region, we're keen to place our next bets on the sun-drenched Mediterranean vibes of Cilento and the volcanic grip of Vesuvius. Both are regions that will undoubtedly come into the spotlight in the near future. Sannio too is enjoying a renaissance: the usual reliance on Falanghina to stand out in the regional and national scene remains, but we've also tasted increasingly refined Aglianicos, emphasizing the grape’s juicy, ripe, and fruity side rather than tannic components. All in all, it was the usual, delightful tasting journey through various zones, meeting eager, emerging small producers, and witnessing many established wineries further cementing their guiding roles in a bustling, competitive landscape.

However, in conclusion, we feel obligated to address the negatives, which we have pointed out elsewhere. An esteemed appellation like Taurasi deserves more respect—not from us, who have voiced criticism as part of our job, but from the producers themselves. When we say that we often found wines overwhelmed by an overly "generous" use of oak, we don't intend to undermine an industry; on the contrary, we hope to stimulate reflection among the wineries themselves.