Tre Bicchieri 2024, the best Canton Ticino wines awarded by Gambero Rosso. Merlot protagonist

Canton Ticino's Tre Bicchieri 2024

Canton Ticino's Tre Bicchieri 2024. Soils and climate

Ticino ranks fourth among the Swiss cantons in terms of area under vines, with reds accounting for 90% of its output. Its vineyards cover approximately 1,163 hectares (out of 14,606 nationally), while geographically, the region is split into two zones delineated by Monte Ceneri: Sopra Ceneri to the north and Sotto Ceneri to the south.

The soils and climate differ considerably between these areas. To the south, between Lake Lugano and Chiasso, there's a prevalent presence of clay, making for rich, deep soils that yield elegant and smooth wines. Conversely, the canton's northern part boasts rocky terrain, enriched with sand and silt, perfect for producing structured and austere wines. Elevations span 220-700 meters, with the area's classic “ronchi” (terraced slopes that can have inclines of up to 30%.) occupying the higher range and embodying the heroic viticulture for which the Alps and pre-Alps have come to be known. Vines are ubiquitous: rising from Chiasso upwards to the valleys of Leventina, Blenio, and Mesolcina in the north.

Canton Ticino's Tre Bicchieri. Merlot absolute protagonist

Among the grapes cultivated, merlot takes center stage, occupying 85% of the area cultivated since the post-phylloxera era began. Yet, recent years have seen a revival of one of the land's native varietals, bondola, with more and more growers choosing to plant and vinify it. White grapes fill about 10% of the vineyards, and lately, several producers have been experimenting with new, resistant hybrids. Nevertheless, merlot, impeccably suited to these terroirs, remains the star, so much so that many winemakers are offering unique, off-the-skins white versions (some even as sparkling wines). In any case, Ticeno’s wine scene, while compact, radiates tremendous vitality.

The number of wines and producers is on the rise, and many young enthusiasts are choosing to forge their future among the region’s vineyards and cellars. This year we awarded Tre Bicchieri to three outstanding Merlots: Luigi Zanini’s refined Castello Luigi '19, an excellent Ligornetto '20 by veteran producer Vinattieri Ticinesi, and the intricate, rich Moncucchetto Riserva '19 by Moncucchetto, a newcomer to the Tre Bicchieri club.