Marche’s winemaking: the negative aspects
Last year, we already discussed the real risks facing winemaking in Marche. The 2023 season, severely impacted by downy mildew, has had a significant influence on business decisions. Some wineries have only vinified the little they had, others turned to the grape market, while the hardest-hit producers gave up on making wine and opted to skip the vintage, relying on the good quantity produced in 2022 and pinning their hopes on the 2024 harvest. By late August, the 2024 harvest is expected to be promising despite a drought-filled summer, following a winter and spring with very little snow and rain, leaving water reserves at a minimum.
On top of concerns about the global market slowdown, the implosion of Terre Cortesi Moncaro has added to the troubles. The largest cooperative in Marche, active in the region’s main wine-producing areas, entered a financial and managerial crisis at the start of 2024, with unpredictable consequences that will undoubtedly have a negative impact on the entire sector. The situation is so worrying that high-level institutions have become involved. The hope is for a swift resolution to relieve hundreds of members and revive the fortunes of thousands of hectares of specialised vineyards.
Marche’s winemaking: the positive aspects
But now, let’s move on to the good news. The network of small and medium-sized wineries that form the backbone of Marche’s winemaking is holding strong. With their often smaller scale, strong family involvement, and the rural culture’s natural tendency to avoid waste and excess, these wineries remain reliable and resilient. This has led to a steady improvement in quality, even if in small steps. A key example of this progress is the highest recognition awarded to a Bianchello del Metauro, a historic DOC that covers many vineyards in the province of Pesaro.
Tre Bicchieri 2025 from Marche: the new entries
We welcome new entries into the Tre Bicchieri club, including Edoardo Dottori and Cimarelli from Jesi, and La Valle del Sole and Quinto “Quntì” Alfonsi from Piceno. Additionally, two wines have returned to exceptional levels: Verdicchio Origini Riserva from Fattoria Nannì and Kurni from Oasi degli Angeli.